Okay, I got in touch with Chris Barr with Brenderup Trailers in Midland, TX. chris@brenderuprealtrailers.com He can get any one of these trailers from Europe and can get any parts for them. He's a great guy with great customer service skills. He also has a 14" wheel option for this trailer, and BF Goorich makes the All Terrain K/O in a 14" that will fit this trailer, for those of you wanting more ground clearance and a beefier tire. I have upgraded the tires on one of my two and am considering the 14" upgrade with new tires. I'll keep you posted. Thanks!
New Thule Trailer (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter VA Runner
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DERod
Hello! I'm new to the site and enjoyed reading about the Thule / Brenderup trailer.
I also purchased a 1900 trailer through Mr. Chris Barr (very nice gentleman!) in Midland, TX. I asked them to add the extension sides and I added a tongue box a few months later.
I found a gentleman, in Elkharat, IN, Mr. Rocky Miller 574-238-1152, who has purchased a significant number of the Thule trailers, parts, tires, etc. I'm working with him on a few items.
Here is a photo of my trailer and bicycle set up.
Hello! I'm new to the site and enjoyed reading about the Thule / Brenderup trailer.
I also purchased a 1900 trailer through Mr. Chris Barr (very nice gentleman!) in Midland, TX. I asked them to add the extension sides and I added a tongue box a few months later.
I found a gentleman, in Elkharat, IN, Mr. Rocky Miller 574-238-1152, who has purchased a significant number of the Thule trailers, parts, tires, etc. I'm working with him on a few items.
Here is a photo of my trailer and bicycle set up.
I just ordered two 14" rims from Chris Barr today. I plan on mounting 195/75-14 BF Goodrich All Terrain K/Os on them. I'll keep you posted and will post pics when I'm done. Thanks.
I sent an email off to Thule asking about any North American dealers, here is their response:
Thank you for your email.
We have closed down our trailer activities in the North American market. However you can contact our horse trailer importer, Real Trailers in Midland, who also carries a limited rage of our other trailers and accessories.
Contact info:
REAL TRAILERS INC.
2800 South C.R.#1207
MIDLAND, TX 79706
USA
Tel 0014326997000
Fax 0014326997079
Chris Barr
chris@brenderuprealtrailers.com
Best regards
Thomas Hinsby Lund
Export Manager - Business Development
Business Area Trailers
Thule Trailers A/S
Fabriksvej 4
DK-5580 Nr. Aaby, Denmark
Phone direct: +45 63 42 22 13
Fax: +45 63 42 22 75
Mobile: +45 30 16 15 05
E-mail: thomas.lund@thule.com
Choose Country Thule - Thule Racks - Rack, Carrier, Or Hitch Solutions For Use With Cars, Trucks & RVs
Thule Trailers A/S (Reg no CVR 88430212)
Registred Office Nr. Aaby, Denmark
Thank you for your email.
We have closed down our trailer activities in the North American market. However you can contact our horse trailer importer, Real Trailers in Midland, who also carries a limited rage of our other trailers and accessories.
Contact info:
REAL TRAILERS INC.
2800 South C.R.#1207
MIDLAND, TX 79706
USA
Tel 0014326997000
Fax 0014326997079
Chris Barr
chris@brenderuprealtrailers.com
Best regards
Thomas Hinsby Lund
Export Manager - Business Development
Business Area Trailers
Thule Trailers A/S
Fabriksvej 4
DK-5580 Nr. Aaby, Denmark
Phone direct: +45 63 42 22 13
Fax: +45 63 42 22 75
Mobile: +45 30 16 15 05
E-mail: thomas.lund@thule.com
Choose Country Thule - Thule Racks - Rack, Carrier, Or Hitch Solutions For Use With Cars, Trucks & RVs
Thule Trailers A/S (Reg no CVR 88430212)
Registred Office Nr. Aaby, Denmark
I just ordered two spare wheels from Chris and some other parts for my two Thule trailers. He can get anything you want, including full trailers. He's got a direct link to Denmark and is a great guy. Very thorough. Great customer service.
Just checking in
Just checking back in to the thread.
We're still using our 1205S to pieces. Recently bought a spare tire from Chris Barr in TX. Using it to haul four bikes or our tablesaw or firewood for a campout or camping gear or recycling or our garbage cans to the local garbage transfer center and so on.
8ft lumber lays very well on on top of the trailer's front wall and the tailgate. I just wrap my ratchet straps over the trailer and hook them onto the frame. Just right for weekend project needing a half dozen of this or that and a few bags bags of cement. Hanging some 8ft lumber out the lack is okay if I have some weight in the front of the trailer.
I have maxed the trailer out twice. Once hauling scrap steel and once hauling dirt. It's not a happy trailer at it's limits and I don't plan on doing that again. My little generic steel trailer that I owned before this was better at it's limits. This little trailer just waddles when heavily loaded. Lightly loaded (up to maybe 800 lbs) this trailer is really better than anything else I've used. One of the things I like about this trailer is that even lightly loaded it has some suspension movement. My little steel open top trailer had such stiff leaf springs that it just pounded through bumps. The Brenderup rides much smoother with a little weight in it.
I've added the Brenderup spare tire and plan to add a tongue jack and the rear loading jacks. Time to build a shed extension to get it out of the weather.
Just checking back in to the thread.
We're still using our 1205S to pieces. Recently bought a spare tire from Chris Barr in TX. Using it to haul four bikes or our tablesaw or firewood for a campout or camping gear or recycling or our garbage cans to the local garbage transfer center and so on.
8ft lumber lays very well on on top of the trailer's front wall and the tailgate. I just wrap my ratchet straps over the trailer and hook them onto the frame. Just right for weekend project needing a half dozen of this or that and a few bags bags of cement. Hanging some 8ft lumber out the lack is okay if I have some weight in the front of the trailer.
I have maxed the trailer out twice. Once hauling scrap steel and once hauling dirt. It's not a happy trailer at it's limits and I don't plan on doing that again. My little generic steel trailer that I owned before this was better at it's limits. This little trailer just waddles when heavily loaded. Lightly loaded (up to maybe 800 lbs) this trailer is really better than anything else I've used. One of the things I like about this trailer is that even lightly loaded it has some suspension movement. My little steel open top trailer had such stiff leaf springs that it just pounded through bumps. The Brenderup rides much smoother with a little weight in it.
I've added the Brenderup spare tire and plan to add a tongue jack and the rear loading jacks. Time to build a shed extension to get it out of the weather.
I still love mine too. See pics for the rack I've added to the to of mine (custom welded locally - I designed it - it has three height positions depending on load in the bed, which helps secure items in the bed, as the rack is all lockable using Yakima lock cores). I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but I took mine apart last winter and replaced the particle board floor with diamond plated aluminum. In doing so, I replaced every rivet on the trailer with stainless 1/4" bolts. I've also added 14" wheels bought from Chris Barr, and BF Goodrich All Terrain tires, which gave me about a 3 or 4 inch lift. The trailer looks great, and pulls nicely behind my Polaris RZR and Jeep when offroad. All in all, a great little trailer. My spare is mounted up underneath the front - I drilled a hole in floor and have the bolt coming down from the top so that I don't have to get underneath the trailer to release the spare - had the nut welded to a plate that cannot spin inside the spare wheel. It's a nice setup and adds more weight and tongue weight to the trailer. The tires and wheels were much heavier as well, so the thing trailers a little more smoothly as the suspension works better with a load in it (as mentioned in the previous post). Thanks!
(any quick way to post a pic here - I've exceeded my "quota" with the three pics I've uploaded in the past)
(any quick way to post a pic here - I've exceeded my "quota" with the three pics I've uploaded in the past)
Here's a couple of pics.
Edit: Well I guess I can't post pics...
Yeah - I really like it. Have sent pics to a buddy that was considering something like that.
I agree the floor is the weakest link here. I lay a piece of plywood down inside the trailer when I haul heavy but small footprint stuff (like my four legged table saw). Eventually I'd like to follow your diamond plate lead. Would be a nice upgrade. I'm also looking forward to a little more weight upfront from the spare.
Edit: Well I guess I can't post pics...
Yeah - I really like it. Have sent pics to a buddy that was considering something like that.
I agree the floor is the weakest link here. I lay a piece of plywood down inside the trailer when I haul heavy but small footprint stuff (like my four legged table saw). Eventually I'd like to follow your diamond plate lead. Would be a nice upgrade. I'm also looking forward to a little more weight upfront from the spare.
Last edited:
What are the measurements (length x width) of the fairing/lid on the trailer pictured above? Is that a Thule item or ??
Don't think of the trailer in terms of the Thule brand. They aren't selling the Brenderup trailers anymore. Think Brenderup. That's who made it the whole thing and is selling them now. The top is a Brenderup accessory. It's outside dimensions are the same as the trailer - about 4ft x 7ft on the 1205S. The height is maybe 18" at it's highest point and less towards the front.
If you look at:
Brenderup Trailers
You can see the range of trailers and the accessories.
If you look at:
Brenderup Trailers
You can see the range of trailers and the accessories.
Just new to the discussion on Brenderup/Thule trailers. I've located one of these in California & am considering buying it. However, in emailing Chris down in Midland, Texas, he's saying that as of Jan 1, 2011, he cannot get any more spare parts for these trailers. I'm most interested in getting my hands on a spare tire/wheel, or even the bigger wheel that some folks have mentioned previously. Anyone have a new experience about how to get ahold of these tires/wheels now that the Midland Texas folks can't help? Don't necessarily want to purchase it if I can't find spare parts, even if it's a great deal. Thanks
Wow-that's disappointing
That is disappointing. I had plans of buying a few more things from Chris Barr for my trailer. I wanted the tongue (jockey) wheel and the anti-tip legs that go on the rear of the trailer.
These parts are still available even if not from Chris Barr then. We'll just have to find a UK dealer that wants to mail stuff to us. I have purchased things off of eBay UK and the shipping wasn't that bad and the speed was plenty good. Just ask them to use FedEx or UPS. I always go cheap on shipping even if it is going to take longer. Heck, "back int he day" it used to take me 4-6 weeks to get something by mail order. Back then we'd mail in the money order and cross your fingers...
Anyone know of a Canadian dealer?
I'm going to guess that UK dealers are so used to sending stuff to customers in Australia/NZ and Africa that sending a package to the USA isn't going to be too stressful.
That is disappointing. I had plans of buying a few more things from Chris Barr for my trailer. I wanted the tongue (jockey) wheel and the anti-tip legs that go on the rear of the trailer.
These parts are still available even if not from Chris Barr then. We'll just have to find a UK dealer that wants to mail stuff to us. I have purchased things off of eBay UK and the shipping wasn't that bad and the speed was plenty good. Just ask them to use FedEx or UPS. I always go cheap on shipping even if it is going to take longer. Heck, "back int he day" it used to take me 4-6 weeks to get something by mail order. Back then we'd mail in the money order and cross your fingers...
Anyone know of a Canadian dealer?
I'm going to guess that UK dealers are so used to sending stuff to customers in Australia/NZ and Africa that sending a package to the USA isn't going to be too stressful.
Okay guys I need to post pics of mine complete, but I'm at my quota. Any help? It looks awesome with 14" wheels and All Terrain tires.
I love my Thule 1700. I got it back in Dec 2006 after finishing my enlistment with the Army.
I just finished Drilling out the passenger side hub to accept [SIZE=+1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4x114.3mm (4 on 4.5) rim. Thought id check if there was a forum out there for others modding these things so i could share a how too.
Rims and tires came off my sisters wreaked car.
Know that i know there are others out there that are in love with these I'll take detailed photos and write up howtoo tomorrow when i finish the Drivers side hub.
All ya need is rims, drill press, 15/64 bit (or bit for your size of stud) , and the rim studs. Studs only set me back 15 bucks.
Got a few ideas for mine now after reading and seeing what others have done here.
Meeki
[/SIZE][/FONT]
I just finished Drilling out the passenger side hub to accept [SIZE=+1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4x114.3mm (4 on 4.5) rim. Thought id check if there was a forum out there for others modding these things so i could share a how too.
Rims and tires came off my sisters wreaked car.
Know that i know there are others out there that are in love with these I'll take detailed photos and write up howtoo tomorrow when i finish the Drivers side hub.
All ya need is rims, drill press, 15/64 bit (or bit for your size of stud) , and the rim studs. Studs only set me back 15 bucks.
Got a few ideas for mine now after reading and seeing what others have done here.
Meeki
[/SIZE][/FONT]
tire howtoo
Did the other side today and photographed the process.
Get the rim/tire off you should see a hub like this.
In the grease there is a cotter pin.
Axle nut was 27mm for me.
hub slips right off. The tapered bearing comes out of the hub too. Be sure to put it somewhere it will not get dirty
Ok, did some math here. Used paint pen to mark the hub so i could scratch a bit off to make my mark for the punch later. Graph paper was all measured out before hand and cut to show where the lugs will go in relation to the original lugs that i used to hold paper on the hub.
All you need to know if you decide to use my bolt pattern is its 2.9mm from the edge of the hole for the axle. Use some graph paper so you can make strait lines and mark out from the edge like this.
punch your marks so the drill bit will center in the hole.
You need to be DANG sure that your hols are right. Used the caliper to make sure both sides were 4.5 inch apart.
This is still not enough. Then make sure all holes are space equal from each other side to side.
One of my holes was a tad in so i moved it out. Tap a few times then check ....check again.
I could not drill at the same time an take photos on the drill press. Don't use the biggest bit first. Be sure to make the hole with a bit about 1/2 the size as the final. Here is what you get.
Grind the back side to get the casting numbers off so the stud will sit flush then using a step drill lightly widen the hole on the side you just ground the casting numbers off of. About 1 to 2 mill deep will do.
Pull the studs through by mounting the hub on your new rim or using a bushing like I did.
Reassemble, make sure when putting the nut back on the axle you load the bearing. Tighten the axle nut on until you cant turn the hub any more then back it off till it spins with no resistance or play in and out. Then put the cotter pin in and you now have your upgrade.
If you have a euro car and don't want to put a converter in you can also upgrade to turn signals and even a reverse light.
And as always i like to have a box on the front.
Did the other side today and photographed the process.
Get the rim/tire off you should see a hub like this.
In the grease there is a cotter pin.
Axle nut was 27mm for me.
hub slips right off. The tapered bearing comes out of the hub too. Be sure to put it somewhere it will not get dirty
Ok, did some math here. Used paint pen to mark the hub so i could scratch a bit off to make my mark for the punch later. Graph paper was all measured out before hand and cut to show where the lugs will go in relation to the original lugs that i used to hold paper on the hub.
All you need to know if you decide to use my bolt pattern is its 2.9mm from the edge of the hole for the axle. Use some graph paper so you can make strait lines and mark out from the edge like this.
punch your marks so the drill bit will center in the hole.
You need to be DANG sure that your hols are right. Used the caliper to make sure both sides were 4.5 inch apart.
This is still not enough. Then make sure all holes are space equal from each other side to side.
One of my holes was a tad in so i moved it out. Tap a few times then check ....check again.
I could not drill at the same time an take photos on the drill press. Don't use the biggest bit first. Be sure to make the hole with a bit about 1/2 the size as the final. Here is what you get.
Grind the back side to get the casting numbers off so the stud will sit flush then using a step drill lightly widen the hole on the side you just ground the casting numbers off of. About 1 to 2 mill deep will do.
Pull the studs through by mounting the hub on your new rim or using a bushing like I did.
Reassemble, make sure when putting the nut back on the axle you load the bearing. Tighten the axle nut on until you cant turn the hub any more then back it off till it spins with no resistance or play in and out. Then put the cotter pin in and you now have your upgrade.
If you have a euro car and don't want to put a converter in you can also upgrade to turn signals and even a reverse light.
And as always i like to have a box on the front.
- Thread starter
- #56
Meeki, nice job with the wheel upgrade, looks cool. Also like the front tool box.
Thanks VA! Mine did not come with stickers on the side. I like yours.
Don't know what im going to do with the 3 rims and tires that dont fit now.
I did notice the outer race on the drivers side was worn bad so I replaced the outer bearing and race today. The rear bearing was fine but replaced it.
Napa had in stock for me the front bearing and race for 10 bucks.
Front bearing and race # is 30204
Rear bearing and race # is 30206
encase any one needs to change theirs.
I take mine full to the lid barely shuts full of wood all the time. I have about 18k miles on it. So if you load yours up and use the hell out of it ya might want to check in on your bearings.
The rear seal is another issue. I cant seam to find one that will fit if any one has a source for them PLZ let me know.
Thanks for the bearing info
Are your extra rims (the Brenderups) 13" or 14" ?
The bearing seal can probably be had from an industrial bearing supplier. Check your yellow pages.
Am going to upgrade the floor soon. Diamond plate as suggested above. My floor is still perfect but I want the floor stiffness.
I used our trailer 10 days in row in July this year. Boy Scout trips, moving some equipment at work, chores around the house, and so forth. CR-V is now at 221K miles and still content to tow this trailer. It seems the longer we have the trailer the more we use it. I'd buy another one in the blink of an eye. It has really set some friends to thinking and reconsidering what they drive. I have a 4WD crewcab driving friend who says he intends to buy a car and a Brenderup for campouts and pocket cash over fueling his truck.
Are your extra rims (the Brenderups) 13" or 14" ?
The bearing seal can probably be had from an industrial bearing supplier. Check your yellow pages.
Am going to upgrade the floor soon. Diamond plate as suggested above. My floor is still perfect but I want the floor stiffness.
I used our trailer 10 days in row in July this year. Boy Scout trips, moving some equipment at work, chores around the house, and so forth. CR-V is now at 221K miles and still content to tow this trailer. It seems the longer we have the trailer the more we use it. I'd buy another one in the blink of an eye. It has really set some friends to thinking and reconsidering what they drive. I have a 4WD crewcab driving friend who says he intends to buy a car and a Brenderup for campouts and pocket cash over fueling his truck.
The rims are 14 inch The tires are fine. Id let them go with tires for $25 each. The spare was an after market steal rim and tire I had ordered from the tire shop. It fits but is not the stock type rim. The tire on it is brand new so $25 for it too.
I live in Portland Oregon but driving up to Tacoma Washington on the 28th if anyone is on the way I can drop one off.
I live in Portland Oregon but driving up to Tacoma Washington on the 28th if anyone is on the way I can drop one off.
