New OEM CV axle no cotter pin hole?
- Thread starter phishtaco
- Start date
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First, don’t be offended that I’m referencing a FJ Cruiser repair manual. There are many similarities. I agree with you that it should have a hole for a cotter pin. At this point, maybe the simplest solution would be an appropriate size nylok nut.
Loctite would be fine as well.
I think I remember reading that the new cv axles ditched the cotter pin for another single-use nut or something.
As mentioned in a previous post, you need this:
Will look like this:
After ordering multiple incorrect parts, I called the dealer and they informed me that the diagrams online are not up to date and don't show the correct nut (still show the cotter pin even though they have the new axle part number listed online).
Will look like this:
After ordering multiple incorrect parts, I called the dealer and they informed me that the diagrams online are not up to date and don't show the correct nut (still show the cotter pin even though they have the new axle part number listed online).
I'm in this boat now too. I didn't act fast enough when there were the 5th Gen reman's being sold by dealerships, and now my CVJ red silicone boots are taking a s*** again (probably the 4th pair I've had in 13 years on my 4Runners, which...isn't great).
So, this new stake nut...I know technically you're never supposed to reuse them but that's going to get annoying, no? Any time you have to do something that involves removing the CV off the wheel hub, which is required for quite a few different jobs up there, you have to have a new one of these?
Think you could get away with one reuse with some blue loctite to support it? I know I know, but we're off-roaders, we kind of skirt the line with things like this lol
So, this new stake nut...I know technically you're never supposed to reuse them but that's going to get annoying, no? Any time you have to do something that involves removing the CV off the wheel hub, which is required for quite a few different jobs up there, you have to have a new one of these?
Think you could get away with one reuse with some blue loctite to support it? I know I know, but we're off-roaders, we kind of skirt the line with things like this lol
Maybe just use a 3# hammer and chisel to re-stake that nut after removing it.
Only need a little deformity at the flat spot on the axle stub.
Only need a little deformity at the flat spot on the axle stub.
I'm in the same boat as OP. If I order the correct nut, what keeps it locked in the groove? Am I supposed to hammer down one edge into the groove? If so, how do I remove the nut since I will be deforming a portion of the thread?
After you torque the nut down, you stake the end of the nut into the groove of the axle. A simple punch and a couple taps with a hammer deform it into the groove. Enough force with a breaker bar or impact will reverse the nut if you are in need of removing the axle again. However, it's recommended that these nuts are one time use only. So if you have to take it off again for whatever reason, you replace it.
I've usually hammered them in with a few hammer strikes on the butt of a flathead screwdriver. I then pry up the hammered-in section with a screwdriver prior to removing the nut.
I personally don't care for that style of CV. It is what Subarus use. I have a set of OEM CVs on my GX with the cotter pin, and I will just keep re-booting them indefinitely.
I personally don't care for that style of CV. It is what Subarus use. I have a set of OEM CVs on my GX with the cotter pin, and I will just keep re-booting them indefinitely.