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Okay so pull the brake caliper and then the whole disk assembly should com off in on piece after possibly a large tug? Not trying to be stupid just making sure I'm understanding right. I don't want to brake it worse.
 
yes, the caliper is held on by two 17mm bolts at 90 ft/lb and make sure it goes on that tight too... you gotta nut-up on it to make sure it's tight when it goes back on...be careful though, because if you haven't removed the caliper that's probably all that's holding it on and the hub/rotor'll fall off.
 
Okay so things to get from work tomorrow. Breaker bar because I'm not man enough to break the bolts by myself.
 
you shouldn't be able to break those bolts loose without a breaker bar. when you pull the hub the front bearing will most likely fall out. The rear will be retained by the seal, I have never needed to tug on it. If you want to remove the rear bearing you need to pull the seal, it will be destroyed in the process so you will need a new one. I got mine at autozone, they usually have all of the bearings and seals in stock.
 
the Tugging on it would mean the bearings are toast... only time i've ever had to tug on it to get it off. it was the first time i had torn into the 94 and i think the axle had gone far too long with out enough grease and had over heated thus messing up the spindle, bearings, weakened the birf, etc... heat is a motha
 
Okay new question of the day do I need to take the break line off or can I leave it in place?
 
leave it in place, just don't kink it or twist it too bad. tie the caliper up on the spring with a coat hanger, some wire, string, bungee cord, just have whatever you are going to use within reach when you pull the caliper off.
 
is the hub off? Have we confirmed that Arseno is not in there?
 
Not yet sitting at the work desk just asking questions as I think of them. Hope to have everything apart tonight and I'll post pictures of whatever carnage there is.
 
I wonder if they did it correctly with the c clip.

this is where my money is now, I can't see what else would fail on a new birf driving on the street. The big question for me is why did it wait until now to fail? maybe lack of lube kept the axle in the birf up til now? my only other guess would be that the spindle was not lubed and it burned the birf up and eventually snapped the shaft.

Has the truck been wrecked? It is weird to me that there have been so many problems on that one side. First the toasted drive flange/welded birf and now the broken new birf.
 
That's what I'm saying about the 94 that i just dumped.... the driver side had to have seriously got hot before because the spindle was expnaded and the inner bearings would never go on... in a pinch (because it was Saturday and needed it rolling) i took off the spindle and filed it down as to where the new bearings would go back on. but the old bearings fell apart and the race needed to be beat off the spindle. The birf on that side snapped as soon as it got under load. To me, all that inidicates the metal inside that knuckle had been weakened by heat over who knows how long.

If they put this new birf on the axle shaft without the c-clip then i suppose all hell would've broken loose in there huh? Can the axle shaft come completely out of the birf? i wonder if that's the "whoop whoop" you was hearing... the axle shaft hanging out and rotating... no clue until you pops it open...
 
Not that Im aware of. There was a carfax and it didn't show anything but...
 
now that I think about it I don't think the axle shaft has room to come completely out of the birf, I think the splines would bottom out on the diff end or it would hit the center pin before it came out. it would not be seated on the axle seal for sure though. I would think there would be a huge oily mess in that situation.
 
I would initially think it couldn't come out... but then what was Matt doing when he lost power? driving into his work... most likely doing what? turning... barely enough for it to drop out. Just mere speculation and alot of variables like the c-clip not being used then it actually being able to fall out...
matt, do you know if you got the correct length birf from Slee? the short (8mm shorter) birf is needed for the 91-92's and a center cap can keep the dust cap from popping off... that might would give it enough play.... more speculation.
 
Yeah it's the short birf or at least I think it is. The snap ring was was fairly close to the drive flange. I had just straightend the wheels and then pop. No drive w/o CDL. I do know that last night when I firsted jacked up the truck last night the wheel would just spin like nothing was connected.
 
Yeah it's the short birf or at least I think it is. The snap ring was was fairly close to the drive flange. I had just straightend the wheels and then pop. No drive w/o CDL. I do know that last night when I firsted jacked up the truck last night the wheel would just spin like nothing was connected.

it'll spin anyway like that... open dif
 
When I tightened the wheel bearings prior to this it wouldn't. It would rock back and forth some but not spin like the drive flange was off.
 
When I tightened the wheel bearings prior to this it wouldn't. It would rock back and forth some but not spin like the drive flange was off.

:hmm: - I think you might end up needing to pull the front diff and make sure it is not binding up for some reason. that would explain the problems with that axle side.

If there are some big problems beyond just a birf or axle shafts you might look at replacing the entire housing. there are several later model axles with diff locks on car-part.com for around $700. you could r&r the new axle on the bench and swap it over on a weekend afternoon. bigger brakes and an e-locker would at least give you something extra for your money and hassle.
 

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