- Thread starter
- #21
That makes no sense.,, of course you would replace the pump …seal =gasket in assuming. Just seems like a lot of stuff in the way to get to the pump
New mystery leak
- Thread starter Jakey77
- Start date
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SILVER Star
To pull the pump IIRC - Drain radiator, remove upper radiator hose, remove fan and clutch, remove fan shroud, (I would probably also remove the thermostat housing and replace both the thermostat, the interior seals, and the seal for the housing to the head), loosen accessory belts, remove pump. Some at this time cut the fan shroud in half to make it easier to remove without pulling the fan/clutch. You can search on that topic (I have kept mine intact).
If you do this job - make sure that you strategize on the angles for the hose clamp screws on the hose from hell and others so that you can get to them when everything else is in place. Pay attention to the orientation of the thermostat so the new one does not go in backwards. Note that there is an o-ring inside the thermostat housing. If you miss replacing it, the system will not hold temp properly.
If the cooling system is drained, I would go ahead and inspect / replace any questionable hose or all of them while I was at it. Most of the time previous owners have not maintained these... there are a bunch. Don't forget under the truck for the rear heater (under passenger seat). I roached a head when I first got my cruiser many years ago when a coolant hose blew on the freeway. The only indicator is temp and I noticed too late. Also consider flushing / checking the radiator. Also check your fan clutch to see if it needs to be replaced while at it or have the fluid inside refreshed. Some use R/C car fluid to replace the factory stuff instead of getting another clutch.
Inspect the hard line that goes to the hose from hell. If that is really corroded, you can get a hose that replaces the hardline completely if you want to go that way.
If you end up removing the radiator for some reason, look at the timing cover and see if it is leaking. With all that stuff out of the way, it is a good time to replace that gasket as well. Cracking the nut on the harmonic balancer is difficult. The trick is to strap a breaker bar with the correct socket to the frame and bump the engine with the starter to loosen the nut. Note that the timing cover bolts are all different sizes so use some cardboard or something to keep the location organized.
Same with the engine side cover - only a few more steps to pull that as well and replace the gasket. Note that the distributor needs to be removed to get the side cover off. If you are doing the side cover, set the engine to TDC first so that aligning the distributor again is straight forward.
You may not be able to get all the hoses from Toyota anymore but Napa has good substitutes for most with the right bend. I think I had to cut some to size the last time.
I spliced my upper radiator hose to add a fitting so I can run a mechanical gauge for temp and get an exact reading. Something to consider...
Use anti-seize on all the bolts.
Good luck and post up with any questions. Not meant to be overwhelming with all this info but look at job such as this as an opportunity to take care of deferred maintenance.
If you do this job - make sure that you strategize on the angles for the hose clamp screws on the hose from hell and others so that you can get to them when everything else is in place. Pay attention to the orientation of the thermostat so the new one does not go in backwards. Note that there is an o-ring inside the thermostat housing. If you miss replacing it, the system will not hold temp properly.
If the cooling system is drained, I would go ahead and inspect / replace any questionable hose or all of them while I was at it. Most of the time previous owners have not maintained these... there are a bunch. Don't forget under the truck for the rear heater (under passenger seat). I roached a head when I first got my cruiser many years ago when a coolant hose blew on the freeway. The only indicator is temp and I noticed too late. Also consider flushing / checking the radiator. Also check your fan clutch to see if it needs to be replaced while at it or have the fluid inside refreshed. Some use R/C car fluid to replace the factory stuff instead of getting another clutch.
Inspect the hard line that goes to the hose from hell. If that is really corroded, you can get a hose that replaces the hardline completely if you want to go that way.
If you end up removing the radiator for some reason, look at the timing cover and see if it is leaking. With all that stuff out of the way, it is a good time to replace that gasket as well. Cracking the nut on the harmonic balancer is difficult. The trick is to strap a breaker bar with the correct socket to the frame and bump the engine with the starter to loosen the nut. Note that the timing cover bolts are all different sizes so use some cardboard or something to keep the location organized.
Same with the engine side cover - only a few more steps to pull that as well and replace the gasket. Note that the distributor needs to be removed to get the side cover off. If you are doing the side cover, set the engine to TDC first so that aligning the distributor again is straight forward.
You may not be able to get all the hoses from Toyota anymore but Napa has good substitutes for most with the right bend. I think I had to cut some to size the last time.
I spliced my upper radiator hose to add a fitting so I can run a mechanical gauge for temp and get an exact reading. Something to consider...
Use anti-seize on all the bolts.
Good luck and post up with any questions. Not meant to be overwhelming with all this info but look at job such as this as an opportunity to take care of deferred maintenance.
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