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[CPT MERICA]

Well, nothing about your Land Cruiser will be cheap. For labor budget at least $500 for the rebuild. Parts will be more. Check justdifferentials.com for kit pricing. It makes sense to plan for front axle service and rebuild your diff while servicing your front axle.

Your best bet is to do the front axle service yourself so you'll need to order those parts. Also budget for new axles with as many miles as you have. Don't buy them yet - examine your axles to see if the seal wore a groove in them. If there is a groove then you need to replace them. Pull the front drive shaft while the axles are out and remove the front diff. Box it up and ship it to Zuk for rebuild - he's pretty fast.

Does your truck have factory elockers?

It does have factory Elockers. During my test drive I went down a gravel road and was only able to get the center diff to lock after some skid steering. I couldn't get the front or real to lock up. Do the wheels have to be full on slipping for those to lock?

 

[CPT MERICA]

I'd check all drive shaft u joints for the groan. Loose. Or dry. Grease the slip joints.

Trans bushings for the shake.

As for a bad pinion.. if it's been ran bad for awhile usually the seal will leak from the extra vibration. And if oem gears, and has fluid it's likely fine. The oem gears are stout.

I have new U joints coming in. I was going to replace those being the mileage is so high. I figured it would be time to replace those anyway.

 

[CPT MERICA]

Chk Knuckle Grease Level
Chk Front Diff Level (always loosen top plug 1st)
Chk Knuckle Stud Bolts and Caliper Bolts (takes 5 mins, peace of mind priceless)
Chk Radiator Fluid Level

Welcome to the Fetish.....tell your loved ones now your likely going to need an intervention

I have new calibers and pads coming in. Prior owner had a bleeder valve close to stripping. I have blown a break line on the trail before and don't want to mess with the bleeder valves all being 20 years old.

 

[mechanist]

It does have factory Elockers. During my test drive I went down a gravel road and was only able to get the center diff to lock after some skid steering. I couldn't get the front or real to lock up. Do the wheels have to be full on slipping for those to lock?

You may need to rebuild your actuators. @NLXTACY has a kit - Google "absolute wits end" for his catalog.

Edit: also you can't swap in an unlocked hogs head - they are shaped differently and have a different bolt pattern. You'll need to have whatever ring and pinion you go with set up in your locked-axle housing.

As others have said; it may not be your ring and pinion, but it was on mine.

 

[NLXTACY]

You may need to rebuild your actuators. @NLXTACY has a kit - Google "absolute wits end" for his catalog.

No catalogue just yet but I'm working on it

rear: Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit- 9.5in Diff
front: Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit-8in Diff

 

[LS1FJ40]

You doffs not engaging could be this simple fix. Literally takes 10 minutes.

And welcome. Don't listen to what they all say. These rigs aren't expensive to own.

 

[CPT MERICA]

This is why I am selling my 88 Ram Charger. You all are so ready to help. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[smoltz]

If money is tight you bought the wrong truck! The 80 series is great and this forum is one of the most knowledgeable, helpful communities I have ever come across. Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the club!

 

[Sarge24]

You doffs not engaging could be this simple fix. Literally takes 10 minutes.

View attachment 1435741

And welcome. Don't listen to what they all say. These rigs aren't expensive to own.

X2 on this. Turn your key on (dont start) and engage the cdl. Then try to listen for the actuator to cycle if you can hear it it is probably this sensor. (Napa part # ns6421) about $22. Just did this on my '95. Light came on solid

 

[CPT MERICA]

X2 on this. Turn your key on (dont start) and engage the cdl. Then try to listen for the actuator to cycle if you can hear it it is probably this sensor. (Napa part # ns6421) about $22. Just did this on my '95. Light came on solid

So this might sound like a stupid question but on my 03 4Runner I had a center diff lock button but on this Cruiser the diff only locks with wheel slip in 4 low. Am I missing something?

 

[Sarge24]

@CPT MERICA Did you get your Cdl to engage? Should just need to shift to low range and it will engage. Can you hear it engage,but the light does not come on? could be a bad sensor. Once you get this worked out you can check the fr and rr lockers. THE CDL LIGHT MUST COME ON FOR THE FR AND RR LOCKERS TO ACTUATE. When you check front and rear you will also hear the actuarors. If you hear them and the lights still blink, the sensors (same as Cdl) may be bad. You can jack your truck up and turn a wheel by hand if it turns the same direction as the opposite wheel it is locked even if it blinks. I am also new to this and have done a ton of reading as I am getting ready for an axle swap from my locked '95 to my unlocked '97. I hope this helps! I just had to troubleshoot and fix a few things when I picked up the '95 a few weeks ago. Good luck. No wheel slip needed for CDL to lock