New member with some LX470 questions

[colossus]

Hi everyone. I've been creeping this forum for a while but I haven't actually joined until now. I have recently purchased an LX470 after looking at them (and 4runners) for an extended period of time. My new rig is a 1998 LX470 with 300,000 kms (200,000). Normally i'd avoid something with Km's so high but the fact that there isn't even surface rust on the undercarriage sold me on it. As expected with the age there is a bit of cracking on the drives seat leather and a spot of rust on the tailgate but otherwise it's in remarkable shape. The previous owner also recently changed two accumulators in the front suspension, upper control arms and timing belt so most major serving should hopefully be out of the way for a while although as I have a fairly strong mechanical background, so if something does come up, I am not scared to tackle it.

I've seen some other threads that do discuss this matter, but I wanted to get some more input mostly to put my own mind at ease regarding the factory oil pressure gauge. When highway driving (and fully warm) it sits around the middle of the gauge which seems about right and when cold will sit as high as the 3/4 mark. My concern however is that when it's fully warn it will sit at the L mark and sometimes even below in gear at idle. I flushed and changed the oil which helped a bit (now it doesn't go below the L). Aside from this low oil pressure read out there are no other signs of any trouble with the engine - it is smooth and quiet. I understand that the factory oil gauge really can be used to draw too many conclusions but it's still bothering me.

When I get the opportunity in the next month, I am going to put a mechanical gauge on it and see what is is really reading.

My second question is regarding the coolant - it's green regular antifreeze it in now but if I"m not mistaken it should be technically using the Toyota long life coolant. Do you guys figure I should worry about changing it right away or just leave it for a couple years until it's ready for a change anyway?

 

[Sandroad]

Welcome! If it were mine, I would not worry about the oil pressure or bother with a specific reading. It's fine, based on lots of other posts about the dash gauge on this forum. I'm OCD on antifreeze, so again, if it were mine, I would completely flush out the green and get Toyota coolant in there. At the very least, make sure the green is concentrated enough for the Calgary weather. Others will say that's a waste of antifreeze, so it will be your choice in the end. Get some "stuff" on that leather (i like Lexol) and touch up that rust. Odd that it rusted on the tailgate but not the undercarriage. Sounds like you got a good one and I'll bet you enjoy for years to come.

 

[2001LC]

Welcome.

These oil gauges do read low in idle, took me awhile to get used to. I really don't notice it anymore, but yours sounds about right. Let us know how the mechanical oil pressure test goes, I'd be interest.

I'd get the green out now. Use the 50/50% pre-mix Toyota red or Red 100% and mix with de-mineralized water. You can certainly keep the green in, and some say it's the same made by same company. I read up on this years ago and became a firm believe the red has less silicate's (of a type). If I've got my terminology correct, the "silicates" attract minerals and leave/create deposits, which is the corrosive enemy of the coolant system. I think you'll find 50/50 is recommended for all weather hot & cold.

Don't Fill Her Up with Antifreeze, Alaska Science Forum

 

[colossus]

Hey guys,
Thanks for the reply. Definitely it helps put my mind at ease to hear your options on the oil pressure. I will definitely keep you posted on the results when I get the mechanical gauge on there.

I think as you both suggest, I'll get the green antifreeze out of there when I get the first opportunity in the next few weeks.

Yes, the rust on the tailgate is rather weird when the rest is so rust free, but it seems to have started from around the chrome trim in the centre of the gate - I'm guessing that the trim vibrated through the paint and then added insult to injury by holding moisture in on bare metal.

I definitely do need to get something on the seats. The drivers bottom seat cushion is likely cracked beyond repair but the rest of the seats are in really good shape aside from the leather starting to feel hard to the touch. I've heard that Lexol is pretty good stuff. I ended up ordering online some leatherique which I've also heard good things about.

 

[ponytl]

I know this is a can of worms but it is my understanding that the "toyota red antifreeze " is made by Prestone in the USA and is chemically identical ... to " Prestone green" I have never seen a "coolant" related failure
I guess it's whatever you feel comfortable with...

 

[Josh N]

I view the coolant like this...if for some reason you need coolant in a pinch you can get normal prestone green coolant anyplace. Autoparts stores, gas stations, walmart etc. Toyota red is pretty much limited to Toyota dealers. IF you are sure that the coolant isn't poorly mixed or even a mix of mostly green with some red in there, then whats the harm. One of the well known Vendor/Sponsors of these forums on the east coast replaces coolant anytime they do a flush with green for just that reason. I have had this done to my 2 trucks and I am quite happy with it.

 

[2001LC]

I know this is a can of worms but it is my understanding that the "toyota red antifreeze " is made by Prestone in the USA and is chemically identical ... to " Prestone green" I have never seen a "coolant" related failure
I guess it's whatever you feel comfortable with...

It is a can of worms isn't. I saw your post about the Prestone rep the other day. I would use river water (filter through shirt) or any color coolant in a pinch. But I'd flush at first chance.

I'm stick with Toyota Red, why:
I too shared your opinion until some years ago, so things may have changed since. What I found back then was one difference in the ingredients listed. Toyota red LL uses "Hydrated Innorganic Salt" others don't, and generally use Silicates'. This concerned me as while doing T-belt job I did not replace the water pump (Sunday and was missing a gasket). So I did a little investigating, wanting the best for the health of my water pumps' life. My concern was that many antifreezes' have added additives to keep/reduce minerals from attaching to silicates creating deposits. These despot attach to surfaces in the cooling system, leading to corrosion, sending unit failure, clogs, sticking thermostats, and failure of water pump bushing prematurely. My recollection and terms may be off a bit, but you get the idea. So for my piece of mind I stick with red. So far (knock on wood) so good. And when I look into my radiator, I can't see any deposits and the plastic top looks good. I've used water with minerals in the past, but will not even do that anymore.

Everyone always thought the same about brake fluid being all the same. Until a Toyota TSB came out sometime after 2005. That some Toyota may develop a seal leak in the master cylinder. This condition was from aftermarket brake fluid being added to top off reservoir. It turns out the brake fluid that comes in our Toyota from Japan, is not importable by the can (Per EPA). The slight difference between fluids caused a chemical reaction with some of the rubber seals (possible chemical variation in seals as well), which effected the seals. 100 series were not in the recall.

BTW: I found a cheaper source for Toyota red at; CARQUEST.

 

[colossus]

Thanks for the comments Josh and 2001. I think I will just get the Toyota coolant and pay the price for peace of mind. I checked the strength of the green coolant that's in there and it's good until -34 so at least it's not a mad rush to change it.