New Member FJ-70 / Carb. Problem

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if you fitted new rings just a couple years ago then i would redo the head and stick it on, you might be good to go...
like i mentioned before the shipping will be outrageous from Canada to Egypt...
shoot me an email to
wayne@crushersrule.com
 
So I should just rebuild the upper part and don't do a thing with the pistons and rings ??
I'm gone need to rebuild the pistons, but I don't know if I should bore the engine or just replace the rings....? I guess I'm gone have to take the heads apart and checkm what has to be done....
 
I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I don't want to spend a lot of time with my mechanic too !!!
I replaced the rings on the pistons before a couple of years ago so I guess fitting rings again won't be the perfect solution....
"Crushers"What will it cost me if you decided to sell the 3F ? Just to see if I have another option....
"BigBrownDog"I can't inspect the pistons as Crushers says if I only took the upper part apart, so I'll have to take the oil pan apart as well ?
Hmm very lazy to re-bore the engine...but it seems no choice

This information is coming slowly which makes it hard to advise. What I meant by inspecting the bore for lip etc will give a fair indication of the condition of the rings and pistons. If new rings were fitted approximately 2 years ago They should still be ok unless
1.. the engine had done a big mileage in that time or run with out an aircleaner..
2 The job was not done properly.
3 The engine has been over heated and the rings have lost their tension.
4 Has been driven with low oil capacity or run out of oil.
Were the bearings replaced when the new rings were fitted?
If the rings were in poor condition, cracked or had lost tension.
You would have noticed an increase in oil use with some blowback of oil into the air cleaner and the exhaust blowing blue smoke. The bore would have a sharp lip on top and would look heavily glazed. Having a burnt,stuck or non seating valve can cause loss of power,a miss in the motor and oil being forced back to the aircleaner also the exhaust will have a definite unburnt petrol smell with an audible miss. Also when the head is off you will be able to feel the play between the piston and cylinder wall just before any piston is at TDC. In all anyone with some experience will be able to gauge what repairs are needed with the head off. If this seems ineffective to you the simple answer is to completely strip the motor.
I have not read every post but have you indicated if your mechanic thinks you have a cracked head, blown headgasket,burnt out valves or other? Are you sure the motor has not developed a miss from a warped manifold from the engine running too lean and maybe burnt out a valve?
 
to further BBD advice,
do a compression test, wet and dry. if the comression goes up from the dry test to wet then the rings are gone and need redoing. if the compression stays the same then the valves need doing. if it varries (some cylinder readings are up and some are the same) then you will need to do both...
 
Thanks guys for the info I will have to check with my mechanic and will let you know.
Wayne - We have a normal compression test, but what is the wet and dry compression test
BBD - The Bearings were replaced when I changed the rings and this was 5 years ago. The air cleaner is clean no trace of Oil on it. I get white smoke from the exhaust plus a smell of unburnt fuel. And I replaced all the manifold gaskets 2-3 years ago.
 
a normal compression test is a usually a dry one.
a wet compression test is when you squirt some oil into a cylinder before you do the compression test on that particular cylinder. this helps to seal the rings for the test hence the different readings from a dry test (or maybe not if the rings are good)
 
Are you going to tell us the compression test readings or keep it secret.LOL Seems from your post not mentioning any undue stress that has been put on the motor from lack of oil or water etc perhaps we can conclude the bearings and rings are in reasonable condition.
From what you have said I think you may only need to pull the head and inspect it for cracks, burnt valves etc and check the head gasket as it may have failed. goodluck.
 
BBD you want me the publish the readings online ?? It's very private!!! hehehhe

Wayne I don't know if they do this wet compression test, here. Does need to be done with special type of oil?
I should be doing this by next week...I'll post some pic when we take the upper part off.

Cheers
Issa
 
nope, just used new engine oil. after the compression test the truck will run "smokey" for a bit.
very simple, fill a squirter can with oil and shoot a 2 or 3 pumps into the cylinder before do the compression test
 
BBD you want me the publish the readings online ?? It's very private!!! hehehhe

Wayne I don't know if they do this wet compression test, here. Does need to be done with special type of oil?
I should be doing this by next week...I'll post some pic when we take the upper part off.

Cheers
Issa

:lol: Good one LOL, The more information thats given out initially makes it easier to diagnose the problem when you can't see or hear it. Bit like ringing the Doctor up and saying "Doctor I am really sick this morning " and not saying you ate several Pizzas and drank 2 cartons of beer then a bottle of rum the night before.LOL.[ just a joke, no offence].
Its a good idea to do the compression test wet and dry like Crusher says as this oil effects the sealing around the rings and the greater the difference then more wear is evident. If the margin is not that much different it shows the compression ring is sealing at least. cheers
 
new to site

Hi to everyone , I am new to site and proud first time owner of a 73fj40. Looking forward to staying close to this site with many questions and looks like plenty of reading. First step will be to install an igniton switch on a85 f60 column and look for wiring guide to match up wires with 73 fj40.
Leroy :)
 
Hi to everyone , I am new to site and proud first time owner of a 73fj40. Looking forward to staying close to this site with many questions and looks like plenty of reading. First step will be to install an igniton switch on a85 f60 column and look for wiring guide to match up wires with 73 fj40.
Leroy :)

Hi Leroy Welcome to the forum:grinpimp: This forum is for 70 series owners and although you are quite welcome to ask questions and contribute your own ideas you may find the the 40/45 series owners forum more to your taste.
(70 series is what toyota made when they finished making the 40;) )
 
Welcome to the forum Leroy. I'm new here too and they've been pretty helpful.

The car is still untouched I hope I can make this week...

I like the motto Rsoco ;)
(70 series is what toyota made when they finished making the 40 )
 
Back again ! I stripped the whole motor and I have to do the rings to the pistons and overhaul most of the upper part " new valves, the base of the valves....."

Lucky me I still stick to the low budget scenario...

The pistons has "07" written on them and have the original Toyota marks on them. Is the "07" an indication for something ?

Ok I will update if there is anything new

Cheers
Issa
 

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