New Mean Green 200 Amp installation concerns

[Imagery]

I Have just completed installing the Mean Green 200 amp alternator and noticed that the two belts are no longer in contact with the idler pulley. I was told by a mechanic at Toyota that it was not necessary for the idler pulley to be engaged. Before, I noticed noise being made by the bearings in the idler pulley when it was engaged and now the noise is gone which is a good thing. However, I just wanted to see if anyone had any comments about the Mean Green 200a alternator, and if there are any other major concerns I should be aware of. I have not replaced the terminal B wire to a larger guage but thought that I might do so in the near future. Also, I wonder if the stock fusiable link is ample enough nou that I have gone from the stock 80A to the 200A? I do have some other concerns about the way the voltage is regulated even though the Mean Green has its own regulator installed just as the stock unit had. I notice that when the headlamps are on and the fato the A/C is running, when I come to a stop and the engine is at idle, the lights dim noticebally and the fan speed slows down too. I can see that the in dash voltage guage drops down almost the the center mark, just above it actually. Then when I bring the engine's RPM from this 600 point up to about 1000, the voltage comes back up and the fan runs faster and the lights are brighter. The problem is a little worse with the high beams on but I am running the 150w Hellas in High Beam and have not upgraded the harness. But I am really concerned as to whether or not the new Alternator is working like it is supposed to because it seems that if it were, these voltage drops would not be occuring.

The main reason for the upgrade to the 200 amp alternator is because I am operating an 800+ Watt linear amplifier from the rear of the vehicle. This means that on voice peaks, at 12.8 volts, it would be drawing something like (800w / 12.8v) = 62.5 amps. So the problem worsens needless to say when combined with the other existing issues. How can I know for sure that the alternator is charging the system properly when under load?

Any suggestions on this would be greatly apreciated.

Mark

 

[landtank]

I remember reading someone's post that when tested this alternator barely produced more than the stock one. Try a search WAAAAAAAY back, I think it might have been Yomama but not sure.

 

[Imagery]

I remember reading someone's post that when tested this alternator barely produced more than the stock one. Try a search WAAAAAAAY back, I think it might have been Yomama but not sure.

OK...I think I found it. That is crazy huh. I paid for a 200 AMP alternator and it may actually be no better than my stock unit. Surely it is more than 80 amps but not likely to produce the 200 as indicated by Mean Green. Well, if I installed an amp meter which shows both charge and discharge amps up to 60A, wouldn't I be avle to at least monitor what is actually going on with regard to the charging circuit? It appears that what i have described is more or less normal so I shouldn't worry to much about the voltage drop at idle.

Mark

 

[Landpimp]

sure sounds like the alt isn't putting out enough volts or amps or both. Lights should not dim. Have you takin a meter to the alt and battery to see whats going on?

I have a MG on my fj60, the 1st one died(within weeks), the bearing seezed up solid, they replaced it, been fine for a year now. But even on my 60 with a IPF h-4's (80/100) Hella 4000's, AC, heat, defrog, ect ect on the volts don't drop and the lights don;t dim

and you REALLY need a fuse in line(if the alt was working right) because 200amps thru the stock fusible link will melt it down. I ran a 2/0 cable with a 200 amp Mega Fuse and the stock wiring/link, just added a 2nd path for the current to flow thru.........

not sure about your tensioner, I would think it should be used. sounds like for one you have a bad bearing and your not hearing it now becasue the belts not turning it. AFAIK the tensioners dont kick on/off......they are always turning.

 

[Landpimp]

might also be as simple as the belts not tight enough

 

[landtank]

I helped out Erics_bruisers with an electrical problem in his 91. When he put on his turn signal the radio would shut off. Suggested he replace both the POS and Neg cables at the battery. Fixed him up just fine. Just because the connections at the battery are clean and tight that doesn't mean the cable can pass the amps needed to the vehicle. We first bought a cheapy NEg cable and that releaved about half the problem and then he bought both from the factory and that took care of everything.

 

[RavenTai]

The idler pulley you speak of was missing on my truck when I bought it, as far as I could tell it caused no problem, I did put a new one on but don’t know if it was worth the cost :/

The MG is an American alt. modified to fit right? Probably the pulley center point or diameter changed. If so there would not be much you could do about it so no reason to worry about it.

Thanks for posting up your experience; I’ll stay away from those, I have been scouring the junkyards for an original alt to replace the rebuild the PO installed.

 

[nyk438]

My 80 does the same thing as well, the lights dim when the idle drops. I'm running a rebuilt alternator thats probaly not as powerful as my stock one that I fried when I ran through a mud pit.


I assumed mine was because the alternator wasn't as good as my stock one.

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

Mark -

The consensus of opinion & experience on this and other forums is that the Mean Green does not put out anywhere near 200A; in fact probably not much more than an OEM alternator. The only positive test is to take it to an alternator shop, have them put a proper load on the thing and test its actual output.

As for alternatives, there is no high current varient for the LC. Bill (Photoman) tossed his MG (measured only 78A output, or therabouts) and converted an American alternator (Delco-Remy was it?...) for higher output. With a little digging, you will find the thread on this forum.

As others have indicated, you should not be experiencing dim lights or the rest with an alternator that is working properly. I run 50w on VHF with a stock alternator and it works just fine (though more output would be nice...)

I also have upgraded all battery cables for a higher load carrying capability. In your case with a radio, this is an imperative - as well as oversizing the radio's power cables - as these solid state radios are very sensitive to low voltage conditions, as you know.

Good luck!

R - K6RG

 

[Imagery]

Mark -

I also have upgraded all battery cables for a higher load carrying capability. In your case with a radio, this is an imperative - as well as oversizing the radio's power cables - as these solid state radios are very sensitive to low voltage conditions, as you know.

Good luck!

R - K6RG

What size cables should I use? I am not sure what the size of the OEM cables are. Also, I do have another issue which I have not yet discussed. It is in regard to the 800+ watt HF amp mounted in the back. I planned on running dual batteries on this system, with the second battery, Yellow Top Altima, located right next to the amp. I ran specialized hi-current DC distribution cable, about 4 ga, from the front Red Top Altima to the rear of the vehicle. The length of these cables are about 10-11 feet, and they will connect to the second battery at the amp location. Then the amp will connect to the battery at that point. My question is, should I be using a battery isolator between the two batteries to prevent the second battery from diischarging slightly to the front battery?

Mark-N5LPT

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

M -

Unfortunately, there is not going to be a simple answer as to what is the proper size battery cables without bringing in some other issues...

a. Do you/will you have a winch? What size?
b. Pros/cons locating the 2nd battery forward/aft;
c. Do you/will you used forced induction (vis-a-vis battery location);
d. Isolate the batteries/or not?
e. The use of dissimilar batteries/or not;
e. If you use isolation; diodes-on-heat shield, or solenoid?

Hate to make a mountain out of a simple question, but your original query (item "d" on my list) will drag all the rest of these issues into the discussion. Since your truck is set up for wheeling, and you understand RF in the context of high power, you will probably want to stir this pot for a while before you start laying battery cable...

Cheers, R -

 

[concretejungle]

Wait, so what about this MG alternator! It claims 200 amps and it doesn't produce that!? I mean Wiskey Tango Foxtrot, i would have a nice discussion with MG and ask them why they false advertise and get the Better BUisness Bur. envolved.