New locker actuator adjustment? (1 Viewer)

[chase norton]

I know, its a hashed out subject, but I'm hoping someone can give me a little help. Factory rear locker... I installed a brand new actuator after my rebuild didn't fix my issue (so i Guess I have 2 working motors now). The motor doesn't throw the push-rod far enough to engage the locker (Very Close, I got it to hook up a couple times). It pulls it all the way out, but the real locker light doesn't go off, just gets dimmer. Without the motor mounted, the Locker manually engages and disengages fine, and the sensor works. WTF? The old motor did the same thing after I rebuilt it. I'm hoping I'm missing something obvious, because I don't really want to open up the new actuator. Sorry for digging up old bones.

 

[Tools R Us]

IIRC, the actuator rod should extend ~2 3/16" when in the unlocked state and ~2 7/8" when locked. If it does this, your problem is somewhere else, is the indicator light switch good, is the axle locking?

 

[chase norton]

IIRC, the actuator rod should extend ~2 3/16" when in the unlocked state and ~2 7/8" when locked. If it does this, your problem is somewhere else, is the indicator light switch good, is the axle locking?

The sensor works when I do it manually, just not when the motor is on. The locker almost engages. It did engage a couple of times with me going back and forth over The sweet spot rotating the tires. What is there really to go wrong other than the actuator? I didn't measure the throw when I put it in because it's a brand new unit.

 

[chase norton]

Thanks for helping by the way, I'm at my Wit's End and nobody around here is willing to open the motor up, just replace it. The Toyota Tech told me every one of them he's ever replaced worked from the factory

 

[Tools R Us]

How did you put it together? The locker and actuator should be in the fully locked position. When the actuator is installed, should have to pull it up to touch with the bolts, so spring loaded fully locked. Then unlock with the switch. If done right, it should work. With the actuator out, can you lock and unlock manually?

The idiot light switch is known to become wonky, will sometimes work when fully depressed, not so much at the distance that the shifter pushes it. Have replaced them with a back up light switch off of a 2000 Taco 5spd trans, like Beck Arnley 201-1788. But overall it's not critical for operation.

 

[chase norton]

That's what I did. One thing though. I engaged the locker manually, the actuator came extended(locked position) once I lined up the holes and put in the set screw, the actuator body was off of the housing about a quarter inch too much to get the bolts in. So I disengaged the locker, it pulled the body tight and I bolted it up. Now it works properly except for it doesn't throw the yoke far enough to engage the locker. It also seems like it's binding like it wants to retract in farther. My instinct would be to open it up reset just throw position, and hopefully I don't screw up reclocking it. And probably buy a new sensor if i can find one maybe I have more than one problem.

 

[Tools R Us]

Before the shift fork set screw was installed, would the actuator go all of the way in?

 

[Tools R Us]

With the idiot light cover off, run the actuator, when fully locked (turn the tire), is the fork all of the way over towards the diff?

 

[chase norton]

The actuator seems to engage and disengage correctly. When it's attached to the shift Fork it appears to pull it away from the diff all the way, and then when ingaged appears to not go quite far enough towards the differential. I can feel it when I rotate the tires. A couple of times it's caught, but that's in about two dozen efforts. I guess I'll pull it off and measure the throw against those measurements you gave me. Then I'll know I need to either pull it apart, or send it back and see if another one is different

 

[chase norton]

Done. Was incorrectly adjusted put of the box. Popped it open, flipped the locker engaged manually, put the click back in an she works great.