New Key Fob (1 Viewer)

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GAPointer

Joined
Mar 4, 2020
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Hey All,
I have read a few threads on this topic of getting a new key and key fob but still a little unclear of my options.
I have a 2000 LC and My key has broken from the fob part, and now the lock/unlock won’t work either (and I’ve tried new battery).

I have done two things:
1. Called local lock and key guy, and he was able to order new fob and program it for $150. However, he said without a special tool from Toyota, his machine would break the ECM if he tried to program it.

2. Called Toyota dealership and it will effectively be about $400 for new key and programming.

It sounds like my only option is the dealership but I wanted to double check that I’m not missing something? Any help on the best way to get a new key cut and programmed is appreciated.

I’m in the Atlanta area if that helps.
Lee
 
GAPointer said:
Hey All,
I have read a few threads on this topic of getting a new key and key fob but still a little unclear of my options.
I have a 2000 LC and My key has broken from the fob part, and now the lock/unlock won’t work either (and I’ve tried new battery).

I have done two things:
1. Called local lock and key guy, and he was able to order new fob and program it for $150. However, he said without a special tool from Toyota, his machine would break the ECM if he tried to program it.

2. Called Toyota dealership and it will effectively be about $400 for new key and programming.

It sounds like my only option is the dealership but I wanted to double check that I’m not missing something? Any help on the best way to get a new key cut and programmed is appreciated.

I’m in the Atlanta area if that helps.
Lee
Click to expand...
Techstream for $40 and program it yourself. You just need a locksmith to cut the key.
 
GAPointer said:
Is this what you are referring to? https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_pageLabel=ti_ts_lite&_nfpb=true

How tech savvy do you need to be for this? I have never programmed a key fob before and don't want to fubar something here, ha.

Thanks for feedback!
Click to expand...
This: Amazon product ASIN B084P3WCJC
Don’t need to be overly tech savvy. It’s straightforward to add/program (and delete old) keys within techstream. Just hook it up to your OBD2 port and your computer, navigate to the key stuff, and follow the prompts.
 
Have you looked at www.yotamd.com ?

I have used their key rebuild kit for both my LX 470’s and didn’t need to reprogram anything.
 
Hi Lee
I’ve had to replace my key fob twice. First time it was broken and second time I lost it.
I had to call quite a few places to find someone who could get everything done including the programming. Even AAA couldn’t find someone in their list of referrals and I didn’t want to use the dealer either…..wayyyy too expensive.
If you were in Southern California I could refer you to the company who did it for me and if anyone from So Cal reads this it is Batteries Plus Bulbs in Upland, Calif. Amazing service and fair price.

If I were you, and like me you cannot do it yourself, I would just keep looking for someone. Since then I have found a couple more places who are capable and one was a tiny little key shop next to a Home Depot.

BTW- If you have AAA Premiere one of the benefits is they will pay to replace your key fob. I was pleasantly surprised when I found that out. Can’t remember if there was a cap on the payout but all I had to was fill out a form and send it in and I had a reimbursement check within a couple weeks!
Good luck! 😃
 
The subtle key to this whole thing: The current remote must still have a functional immobilizer chip. If it doesn't, the problem gets much harder to solve and even the $400 quote is suspiciously low.

The early year 100's (pre 03 maybe?) do not allow new remote programming. Even with Techstream. You must have a currently paired master remote to begin the pairing process for a new remote. The later years, you can add remotes at will (up to the max number at which point you have to simply delete old ones).

The immobilizer and the keyless entry are two independent systems. A failing lock/unlock does not mean the immobilizer chip is dead. Quite the opposite, actually, since the immobilizer is a passive chip that's "read" by the ignition in the car.

Get a new remote (preferably a new OEM one, IMO). Then try to follow the new immobilizer programming instructions. There's a Techstream method and a "Simon Says" method where you open and close the doors and insert remove keys in a specific sequence. The Simon Says method is annoying and will probably take you 15 tries to get right, but it's free.

Oh, and of course, once you're done getting the programming figured out get yourself a nice YotaMD kit to ensure your key never physically breaks again.
 
suprarx7nut said:
The subtle key to this whole thing: The current remote must still have a functional immobilizer chip. If it doesn't, the problem gets much harder to solve and even the $400 quote is suspiciously low.

The early year 100's (pre 03 maybe?) do not allow new remote programming. Even with Techstream. You must have a currently paired master remote to begin the pairing process for a new remote. The later years, you can add remotes at will (up to the max number at which point you have to simply delete old ones).

The immobilizer and the keyless entry are two independent systems. A failing lock/unlock does not mean the immobilizer chip is dead. Quite the opposite, actually, since the immobilizer is a passive chip that's "read" by the ignition in the car.

Get a new remote (preferably a new OEM one, IMO). Then try to follow the new immobilizer programming instructions. There's a Techstream method and a "Simon Says" method where you open and close the doors and insert remove keys in a specific sequence. The Simon Says method is annoying and will probably take you 15 tries to get right, but it's free.

Oh, and of course, once you're done getting the programming figured out get yourself a nice YotaMD kit to ensure your key never physically breaks again.
Click to expand...
Does the year model apply to LX as well? So if I have an '01, am I just screwed? It's dealership or nothing?
 
Sawyer2001LX said:
Does the year model apply to LX as well? So if I have an '01, am I just screwed? It's dealership or nothing?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I believe LX is the same. If you have an 01 and you have no masters, I think you need to hack (physically desolder and resolder the immobilizer chip in the ECU after you get your hands on a cleared chip) or you need a new ECU/key set.

Those early year immobilizers were pretty damn secure, haha. Bad for thieves.... and owners that lose their keys!
 
suprarx7nut said:
Yeah, I believe LX is the same. If you have an 01 and you have no masters, I think you need to hack (physically desolder and resolder the immobilizer chip in the ECU after you get your hands on a cleared chip) or you need a new ECU/key set.

Those early year immobilizers were pretty damn secure, haha. Bad for thieves.... and owners that lose their keys!
Click to expand...
Oh, gotcha. I didn't understand that it only applied if you didn't have a master. I have both of my keys, I just want to switch to an updated style fob with the flip out key.
 
I have just bought my '05 740 and I found that it has come with only one key. From what has been said above, I have two choices to get another key-- buy a used one for a '03-'07 and program using TechStream-- or go to a dealer with proof of ownership and have them make me a key and program it for over $400.

Do I have this correct?

Reminds me of the nightmare I had getting another key for my old P38 RR--big big pain since dealers in the US do not sell them anymore.
 
MarkTR said:
I have just bought my '05 740 and I found that it has come with only one key. From what has been said above, I have two choices to get another key-- buy a used one for a '03-'07 and program using TechStream-- or go to a dealer with proof of ownership and have them make me a key and program it for over $400.

Do I have this correct?

Reminds me of the nightmare I had getting another key for my old P38 RR--big big pain since dealers in the US do not sell them anymore.
Click to expand...
If you have a master, programming is easy doing the "pedal dance". If you don't have a master you will need to reset the immobilizer with Techstream.
 
MarkTR said:
I have just bought my '05 740 and I found that it has come with only one key. From what has been said above, I have two choices to get another key-- buy a used one for a '03-'07 and program using TechStream-- or go to a dealer with proof of ownership and have them make me a key and program it for over $400.

Do I have this correct?

Reminds me of the nightmare I had getting another key for my old P38 RR--big big pain since dealers in the US do not sell them anymore.
Click to expand...

Sort of. For later model years like yours, if you have techstream and a V2 firmware cable, adding a new key (new or used) is easy. No need for a dealer if you have techstream and the cable (V2.X not 1.X). New key is around $150 shipped from McGeorge.
Sawyer2001LX said:
Where do I find this "pedal dance"? 😆

I have a master. I assume both keys i have are "masters". Do you know if that works with aftermarket "flip" key fobs like this?
Click to expand...
Generally, those cheap aftermarket fobs are about as good as their price tag indicates - which is to say terrible. However, they should still program the same. Whether or not they will function for longer than 6 months is a separate question.

If all you're after is the flip style key, you can retain your existing remote or buy another genuine one. The flip shell things are just a cheaply made case from SE Asia paired with a cheaply made remote. Use a decent remote and you'll only have half a cheaply made Chinese assembly. ;)
 
suprarx7nut said:
Sort of. For later model years like yours, if you have techstream and a V2 firmware cable, adding a new key (new or used) is easy. No need for a dealer if you have techstream and the cable (V2.X not 1.X). New key is around $150 shipped from McGeorge.


Mauser said:
If you have a master, programming is easy doing the "pedal dance". If you don't have a master you will need to reset the immobilizer with Techstream.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input-

How do I know I have a Master key-- is it marked? I do not have my 740 yet so I have not seen the key that comes with it-- just saw on the bill of sale that it comes with a single key.

And-- I bought a cable but it is not labeled anything but J2534. I paid only about $55 off of Amazon so it is probably a V1.X. Where is the best place to buy a V2 type cable- and how is it marked?

And last- being new coming from owning and wrenching on a P38 RR- I do not know who McGeorge is. Do I make a forum search or is this a name of a sponsoring vendor?
 
MarkTR said:
And last- being new coming from owning and wrenching on a P38 RR- I do not know who McGeorge is. Do I make a forum search or is this a name of a sponsoring vendor?
Click to expand...

McGeorge Toyota—you can find them online. Domestically, they offer decent prices on OEM parts.
 
MarkTR said:
Thank you for the input-

How do I know I have a Master key-- is it marked? I do not have my 740 yet so I have not seen the key that comes with it-- just saw on the bill of sale that it comes with a single key.

And-- I bought a cable but it is not labeled anything but J2534. I paid only about $55 off of Amazon so it is probably a V1.X. Where is the best place to buy a V2 type cable- and how is it marked?

And last- being new coming from owning and wrenching on a P38 RR- I do not know who McGeorge is. Do I make a forum search or is this a name of a sponsoring vendor?
Click to expand...
Master keys turn off the security light when placed into ignition. Valet keys do not.

The cable firmware is annoying not labeled on most cables. You have to check its version when plugged in using a software package that can read it, or review the sales listing where you bought it.

V2 cables should do most everything. V1 will have trouble registering TPMS, running utilities like key programming and such. V1 will still allow some write signals like convenience settings, but they won't write the "important" stuff.
 
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