new introduction!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Question still is what are you going to do with the rig?
 
Right now, get tags and drive it... For the future, will have to see. The 2F swap is on the list, and that is why I bought the motor to come with it. Leftover cash right now will be used for PMs, etc...

cheers
 
I will be putting a 2F with a TBI unit in my 65 FJ45SWB, currently rebuilding a 4 speed and split t-case from an FJ60 to make it a little more drive-able. Be sure to post your VIN in the registery, always interested in how close VIN are to one another.

Nice score and enjoy the new ride!
 
Cirbo,
yeah, I went with the 2F he had. Does anyone know if the H55 5 speed will mate to the 2F, or is it just that much more simple just to put the 4 speed that originally was designed for it?

Cheers
 
Tennessee80 said:
Cirbo,
yeah, I went with the 2F he had. Does anyone know if the H55 5 speed will mate to the 2F, or is it just that much more simple just to put the 4 speed that originally was designed for it?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Fits like a dream. You'll have to modify the drive shafts by about 3" but otherwise it is very, very easy. Go 5 speed!

Josh
 
The h55f will mate to the 2f with a little adapting. I thought you had to cut a few inches off the input shaft....

Anyway, I think you have to mate the h55f to a split case, not the original transfer.

Someone in the know set us straight.
 
2fpower said:
The h55f will mate to the 2f with a little adapting. I thought you had to cut a few inches off the input shaft....

Anyway, I think you have to mate the h55f to a split case, not the original transfer.

Someone in the know set us straight.
Click to expand...

Best to get your 5 speed with a split case already on it. You are right, you must have a split case to use with the H55.

No need to cut the input shaft unless you get a 5 speed out of a B diesel rig. Then you will have to replace the input shaft with one from an H series diesel or 2F. If you happen to already have a 5 speed of an H of 2F rig, then it will basically bolt right in. You will have to shorten/lengthen the drive shafts 3" and grind out 1/8" dog ears on the bell housing, but it really is almost as easy as putting a new clutch in your existing rig.

Josh
 
"grind out 1/8" dog ears on the bell housing"
Huh? Now i'll have to look. I've helped install a few H55's and never seen that issue that I recall.. Course beer might have been involved. usually harder to plug the bolt hole in the tcase than it is to install.
 
The h-55 trannys I have seen for sale seem to be a bit hard to find and pricey, must be a great tranny... 4 speeds are easier to find and much less $$
 
Thanks, 2F powa... Not in the cards, yet! I am enjoying the truck, however, driving it for 2 days now. Very old school... My friend thought it has a hydraulic clutch on it... which is immensely tight, and when you shift it engages too quickly into gear, IMHO. Any idea how to smooth that out, loosen the "feel" of the transfer between gears? It is a fight right now, very tight...

cheers
 
It is hydraulic clutch, but that should make it easier. When you say engages too quickly, what do you mean? :hhmm:

My gut says you are not getting enough movement on the clutch slave, so check for air (bleed out the line) and make sure it is full. Next see how much slop is on the pedal, so look for how much movement on the pedal before it depresses the plunger on the clutch master.

Could be a bad clutch line too.

If that does not work, then it is beyond repair, parts are hard to find, so you really should sell it to me. :D:D
 
Factory service manual has adjustments on clutch linkage. Also your flex hose to the slave is probably old and swelling inside which greatly affects things. I would upgrade to the newer clutch pieces if you do any work. If you run 76 and newer 3 bolt clutch master it will fit right up and run new lines to match. If you do this you will need to upgrade both slave and master and hard line and flex line. Sounds like rocket science but if you have original stuff they're tired and hard to find parts for. I think SOR has a kit to do the whole thing but really it's off the shelf stuff at most parts stores.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. As a new one around the 45 camp I will get thrown on the rocks a bit (2F powa)!! The truck is exactly what I want in a 2nd cruiser. Anyhow, I appreciate knowledgeable input. I have friends coming over this weekend, so I will include these troubleshooting methods to figure the clutch out. It just takes a lot of leg power to depress the clutch pedal, and starting from a standstill in 1st. or reverse, it takes an exact exchange or the truck jumps...

cheers
 
2fpower said:
It is hydraulic clutch, but that should make it easier. When you say engages too quickly, what do you mean? :hhmm:
Click to expand...


It's a light switch... On or off... Like a CR500's powerband:D


You confirm the hydro part I was wondering about... So thanks for that.

It's got what I am sure are, a spring to return the pedal... A spring that pulls the clutch fork back, and whatever resistance the pressure plate provides...

Plus, I'm almost certain it's been adjusted to get just that little bit out...

Something I explained to TN80 was a bad sign. I've seen it in the past and it's when ppl with "old Chevy" ideology's mess up a perfectly good adjustment b/c they're too lazy to know it's a sign they need to change the clutch disc.


I'm thinking we can do w/o the arm spring, but we'll see once I can get back over there and fiddle with it.


I'm also thinking that since it's got a Chevy motor in it, an over drive will be easier to find for it...

Though I do prefer OEM... The 2f looks a good x2 the size and weight of whatever (235-250?) is in it now, and say goodbye to OD once it's back in...
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom