New Here, A440 Torque Converter Bolt Removal

[oomps]

Howdy,

Recently picked up a 91 that is in need of some TLC with a lot of minor issues in hopes of learning a lot.

First thing I’m tackling is on the bigger side of minor, replacing the rear main seal, following the FSM I’m stuck trying to remove the torque converter bolts.

My question: Is the only way to remove the torque converter bolts through the inspection plate on the bottom? I can only get a box end wrench to even fit in there and holding the flex plate still at the same time is a pita

I tried peaking through the starter hole and it looks like it might be too tight to the ring gear to get a socket in there.

I’m open to any tips/tricks. This is my first trans removal.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Are you removing the rear main due to an oil leak or just as some PM? If the former, are you 100% sure the rear main is the cause of the leak. I'm not so familiar with the '91 models but on the later models the oil pans and valve cover gaskets leak in such a way that it appears the rear main is the culprit.

 

[IDoc]

I just removed mine through the inspection plate. Used an extention with a wobble socket and an impact, no problem. Just used a socket on the front harmonic balancer nut to turn the engine. Turned it until the torque converter bolt was high up in the inspection window - made it easier to get the wobble socket on.

 

[oomps]

Are you removing the rear main due to an oil leak or just as some PM? If the former, are you 100% sure the rear main is the cause of the leak. I'm not so familiar with the '91 models but on the later models the oil pans and valve cover gaskets leak in such a way that it appears the rear main is the culprit.

I have a bad oil leak, I get a drip about every few seconds I was hoping it was was oil pan as I read about that, so I popped off the inspection plate and noticed the flex plate coated in oil. That was my give away.

 

[oomps]

I just removed mine through the inspection plate. Used an extention with a wobble socket and an impact, no problem. Just used a socket on the front harmonic balancer nut to turn the engine. Turned it until the torque converter bolt was high up in the inspection window - made it easier to get the wobble socket on.

Thanks, i forgot about the front crank bolt. I must just have some large wobbles, I’ll see if I can pick some up that are smaller.

 

[jonheld]

Through the inspection plate. If you remove the starter, you should be able to stick a screwdriver or other implement of destruction to hold the flexplate in place.

As previously mentioned, a rear main seal leak is often misdiagnosed while the real cause is the rear arch seal on the oil pan on the 3FE. Especially if other hands have been in there and used aftermarket gaskets or FIPG. That rear arch is actually the rear main bearing cap and is difficult to get clean when installing a new OEM cork gasket for the oil pan (12151-61011).
Apparently, you have already began to pull the transmission and as you're already that far in, you might as well replace the rear main seal as well (90311-99005).

Spend some time cleaning the mating surface of the block/oil pan with ScotchBright pads followed by some acetone on a rag. Make sure the 22 bolt holes in the oil pan are not deformed from being over-tightened. The OEM torque spec with a new OEM cork gasket is 69 INCH/Lbs.
I have always used a 1/4" socket and go round and round in several passes until I juuuuust see the gasket starting to deform.
Nothing will prevent leaks in this area unless the bottom of the block, the front and rear bearing caps, and pan mating surface are clean clean.

 

[oomps]

Just an update for anyone else. My leak did end up being the rear main. The check of popping off the inspection cover and seeing if the flex plate was coating in oil was a good check.

If anyone has troubles getting the torque converter bolts out/in this wrench helped me immensely: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html

Using the 1/4 side and a sacrificial flat head screw driver worked wonderfully.

I also had a bit of trouble removing the old rear main seal. A trim removal tool with a less than 90 degree angle worked great hooking behind the seal without scratching the mating surfaces.