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Looks like we all can have a party here, modifying the fan clutch fluid. :cheers:
 
Rebuilding the fan clutch

Just wondering if there are any seals or anything else that should/can be replaced if you pull the clutch. I know that my 60 creeps up in temp if I'm sitting, so I'm wondering if I should drain and fill as a first step before I start messing with the rest of the cooling system.

But if I'm going to do that, I may as well replace any other components on the clutch that may have failed - I'm coming up on 200k, and I'm pretty sure its original.

Glenn in Tucson
 
tucson_sailors said:
Just wondering if there are any seals or anything else that should/can be replaced if you pull the clutch. I know that my 60 creeps up in temp if I'm sitting, so I'm wondering if I should drain and fill as a first step before I start messing with the rest of the cooling system.

But if I'm going to do that, I may as well replace any other components on the clutch that may have failed - I'm coming up on 200k, and I'm pretty sure its original.

Glenn in Tucson
Click to expand...

There are no replacement parts available for the clutches, so care is needed with the o-ring, etc. There are a few things that make replacing the clutch necessary; if the bearings is bad, it's leaking badly (from the seam around the outside) or the thermostat is stuck and/or rusted out (most often on rust bucket rigs).

Low speed heating is usually low airflow, sometimes low water flow, but that usually also affects higher speed/load conditions. If it's original and 200K mi, my bet is the fluid is done, surprised that it went that long in AZ! Changing/upgrading the fluid is cheap and relatively easy, so IMHO a good first step.

If you haven't done it, this is a good thread on the procedure, it's mini specific, but they are pretty much the same:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html

I have only done a couple of '60 clutches. For AZ rigs, my default fluid is 10K, wouldn't use anything less. Some clutches have less shearing area, so use thicker fluid in them.

For good AZ cooling everything is important, so the foam seals around the radiator, core support, a good fit/seal around the shroud, etc are all critical.
 
O-(Rings) Boy!

Tools R Us said:
There are no replacement parts available for the clutches, so care is needed with the o-ring, etc. There are a few things that make replacing the clutch necessary; if the bearings is bad, it's leaking badly (from the seam around the outside) or the thermostat is stuck and/or rusted out (most often on rust bucket rigs).

Low speed heating is usually low airflow, sometimes low water flow, but that usually also affects higher speed/load conditions. If it's original and 200K mi, my bet is the fluid is done, surprised that it went that long in AZ! Changing/upgrading the fluid is cheap and relatively easy, so IMHO a good first step.

If you haven't done it, this is a good thread on the procedure, it's mini specific, but they are pretty much the same:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html

I have only done a couple of '60 clutches. For AZ rigs, my default fluid is 10K, wouldn't use anything less. Some clutches have less shearing area, so use thicker fluid in them.

For good AZ cooling everything is important, so the foam seals around the radiator, core support, a good fit/seal around the shroud, etc are all critical.
Click to expand...

Gotta foam around, and have a spare radiator I'll take down and have rerodded and soldered. I'll do a coolant test as well, see what my mix is. I'm going to do the 2 part shroud mod, I've had to replace one fan belt, and its a PITA with that shroud in place.

I'll read up on the procedure - might be able to get some new nitrile o-rings if they can be removed intact.
Edit - found out that its not a 0-Ring, its some sort of rectangular x-section. Will take care while removing. Will be looking for a local r/c hobby shop that carries the 10k viscosity fluid. It's a bit of drive to Phoenix, even for free (as in beer) stuff. :)

Glenn
 
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here's my fan clutch (yes i know the belts suck - oem spares are in the truck):
IMG_0381.webp
 
Tools R Us said:
There are no replacement parts available for the clutches, so care is needed with the o-ring, etc. There are a few things that make replacing the clutch necessary; if the bearings is bad, it's leaking badly (from the seam around the outside) or the thermostat is stuck and/or rusted out (most often on rust bucket rigs).

Low speed heating is usually low airflow, sometimes low water flow, but that usually also affects higher speed/load conditions. If it's original and 200K mi, my bet is the fluid is done, surprised that it went that long in AZ! Changing/upgrading the fluid is cheap and relatively easy, so IMHO a good first step.

If you haven't done it, this is a good thread on the procedure, it's mini specific, but they are pretty much the same:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html

I have only done a couple of '60 clutches. For AZ rigs, my default fluid is 10K, wouldn't use anything less. Some clutches have less shearing area, so use thicker fluid in them.

For good AZ cooling everything is important, so the foam seals around the radiator, core support, a good fit/seal around the shroud, etc are all critical.
Click to expand...

So, would this be applicable to all makes? I've got a company truck with 150k on it, and a dually close behind..

And can I buy this goo:D locally?
 
Got mine all done yesterday, we will see how it works. Thanks Kevin. The deal with mine is it has shut off the AC twice. I need to get a thermometer to check vent temps, anyone know of a good cheap one? Hey Kevin, what is great, average and sucks temperature readings?
 
azrider said:
Got mine all done yesterday, we will see how it works. Thanks Kevin. The deal with mine is it has shut off the AC twice. I need to get a thermometer to check vent temps, anyone know of a good cheap one? Hey Kevin, what is great, average and sucks temperature readings?
Click to expand...

Take a virtually black rig, add AZ solar heat gain, traffic heat load, etc, it's going to suck no matter what. Next time be a better shopper, buy the proper AZ color!:o

Without having before readings, after readings aren't going to do much good. I would go with does it feel better, vent temp increase less when stopped, idling and the main deal, did it stop overheating, turning the compressor off?:hillbilly:
 
azrider said:
Got mine all done yesterday, we will see how it works. Thanks Kevin. The deal with mine is it has shut off the AC twice. I need to get a thermometer to check vent temps, anyone know of a good cheap one? Hey Kevin, what is great, average and sucks temperature readings?
Click to expand...

This is a good vent temp and cab temp reading:flipoff2:
MVC-581S.webp
 
it hit and miss. It always blows relatively cold right at the vent, like I said before, the AC has only shut off twice since I owned it. The only true test is to let it sit out in the sun all day, then jump on the freeway and do the stop-n-go in rush hour traffic. That was the circumstances the first time. I just thought that there was a standard temp or parameters for vent temps. I dont know about the compressor turning off and on, can you hear while driving? Yeah, my original requirements in my search for a cruiser was white, but this one came up and I got it. Maybe next time.
 
Unboosted, my a/c was struggling to keep it below 80 at an idle on hot days:crybaby:

With the pusher fan it was 65 to 70

With 30k in the clutch it's been ~60 so far.:bounce::bounce2::cool:
 
azrider said:
... I just thought that there was a standard temp or parameters for vent temps. ...
Click to expand...

There are, somewhat, they are based on temp differential, so to be meaningful you have to know all of the condition of both tests. In the shop, I can make just about any properly functioning system blow in the 30's, but that has little relevance to how it will preform in the real world.
 
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