Builds New FJ62 owner (RD 2 with a 60 series) (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
All wrapped up finally, with all the to do list mods on the 62... Wiring up accessories the right way, takes time!
Glowshift Transmission Temp Gauge
Glowshift Coolant Temp Gauge
Front ARB w/ ol skool IPF 868s
Blue Marine Battery mount Fuse block
Fabbed up Washer fluid relocation bracket ( because hood support lifts)

20190529_082648.jpg


20190531_080933.jpg


20190531_080946.jpg


20190531_081040.jpg


20190531_081015.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Temp Gauges update
(Ambient outside temp 75°F)

First impressions after all mod installs...What a difference the ATF cooler has made.... It obviously does not stop the Transmission from locking and unlocking the torque converter more frequently, but it has made a huge difference in temps...Drove about an hr with some uphill driving and when torque converter stayed locked, highway temps were less than 140°F.. It would constantly hover around 120-140°F. Once torque converter unlocked, temps would hover around 160-170°F until I got to speed to lock TC again (around 50mph). Not bad and no where near the 300°F mark... It is a good idea to point out that it is completely nesccsrry to have a flawless running cooling system and good running 3FE to achieve these results. If your engine is not up to par, you'll have even more issues trying to maintain speed at any slight upgrade. If your cooling system has issues, your tranny temps will suffer especially if you don't have a aux cooler..

Engine temps while highway driving never exceeded 185°F on analog gauge.. Was quite happy to see these temps..

Next stop for the 62, complete wheel bearing/knuckle service w/ new Koyo bearings...Going to give cruiseroutfitters or valley hybrids a call on Monday..
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Well, disassembly on one side done....Top trunion bearing was toast... Bearing cage was broken and all the roller bearings fell out when taken birfield housing off... The inner bearing race was actually stuck on the end cap of the trunion bearing cap.. Had to hammer out the race while on the vice...So far so good...

20190602_105135.jpg


20190602_115202.jpg


20190602_110035.jpg


20190602_115202.jpg


20190602_115209.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Aisin hubs getting a full treatment too..These things were filthy... I do need the replacement o rings that goes on dial itself.. The rings are so old brittle they broke while taking them off..

20190602_180053.jpg


Screenshot_20190602-180034.png
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Nice work @cc93cruiser ! Great to see another Bay Area 60- series getting cleaned up!
Thanks :cheers: .... My goal is to be able to daily drive it if need be or to be able to take it on long trips with the family... One day it will be converted into a manual transmission with the H55F, but for now I will enjoy the slushbox.. For know I am wrapping up the Front axle service with new bearings and now spindles too... The oem had a lot of pitting were the bearing races ride on...

15596557998631790655366.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
692
Location
Tucson, AZ
@cc93cruiser...your are cruising toward a very big bill if you don't intervene immediately on this. Yes, the auto trannies always ran hot. There are several things that contribute to it that are flat out a design deficiency of the vehicle. Don't take the advice to ignore it, "It's a Land Cruiser." I can tell you after living with mine for 30 years as an original owner, that will take a big bite of our your ass and wallet. The tranny heat is a killer.

I presumed as you. I was too busy to intervene ten years ago, and had to have the tranny rebuilt. It drove as a daily driver for two more years, then was largely retired. This past year I jumped into restoration. I had originally planned a 5-speed mod, but started studying the auto closer. I learned the factors that contribute to the tranny running so hot. I went to work to overcome it.

Many members here have given you good advice, but not what will be the most effective in bringing your tranny operating temp down...and I mean WAY down. I took all those same suggestions, and some that no body else has done to my knowledge here. @BlackCat has come the closest.

I began drive testing like you with a digital thermometer, and I was in the same boat; tranny with a load reaching 300 or so. Upon completion of my mods/improvements, I'm now running 145-165!!!

The factor that nobody seems to notice, but I discovered and addressed was the effect that intense radiant heat from the nearby exhaust is contributing to tranny operating temp. It's a huge factor. It's easy to identify with your digital thermometer by shooting both driver side of the tranny and the passenger side. What to do? Below is what I did.

I did this as a building block approach. First I figured out how to install a 12" condenser fan. Then I replaced my aging radiator with a new one with an integral transcooler. At the same time I added a 70268 transcooler directly in front of the condenser fan, plumbing it in series with the new radiator. I tested at this point, and the cooling was dramatic, but "imbalanced." The driver side was still considerably hotter. The solution to that was this Amazon product. This heat shield attaches directly to the exhaust where it is closest to the tranny. It is designed to stand off from the exhaust about 1/4" or so. So the fabric shields, and there is air passing between it and the exhaust.

Tested again, and this was the final improvement. This all basically cut the operating temp of the tranny in half.

You can see photos and descriptions here on my restoration thread beginning here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and continuing here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and posts 106 and 135.

Not to toot my horn because, as we know, even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every once in a while. I found several and basically overcame the design deficiencies that make the tranny run so hot and destroy itself.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
@cc93cruiser...your are cruising toward a very big bill if you don't intervene immediately on this. Yes, the auto trannies always ran hot. There are several things that contribute to it that are flat out a design deficiency of the vehicle. Don't take the advice to ignore it, "It's a Land Cruiser." I can tell you after living with mine for 30 years as an original owner, that will take a big bite of our your ass and wallet. The tranny heat is a killer.

I presumed as you. I was too busy to intervene ten years ago, and had to have the tranny rebuilt. It drove as a daily driver for two more years, then was largely retired. This past year I jumped into restoration. I had originally planned a 5-speed mod, but started studying the auto closer. I learned the factors that contribute to the tranny running so hot. I went to work to overcome it.

Many members here have given you good advice, but not what will be the most effective in bringing your tranny operating temp down...and I mean WAY down. I took all those same suggestions, and some that no body else has done to my knowledge here. @BlackCat has come the closest.

I began drive testing like you with a digital thermometer, and I was in the same boat; tranny with a load reaching 300 or so. Upon completion of my mods/improvements, I'm now running 145-165!!!

The factor that nobody seems to notice, but I discovered and addressed was the effect that intense radiant heat from the nearby exhaust is contributing to tranny operating temp. It's a huge factor. It's easy to identify with your digital thermometer by shooting both driver side of the tranny and the passenger side. What to do? Below is what I did.

I did this as a building block approach. First I figured out how to install a 12" condenser fan. Then I replaced my aging radiator with a new one with an integral transcooler. At the same time I added a 70268 transcooler directly in front of the condenser fan, plumbing it in series with the new radiator. I tested at this point, and the cooling was dramatic, but "imbalanced." The driver side was still considerably hotter. The solution to that was this Amazon product. This heat shield attaches directly to the exhaust where it is closest to the tranny. It is designed to stand off from the exhaust about 1/4" or so. So the fabric shields, and their is air passing between it and the exhaust.

Tested again, and this was the final improvement. This all basically cut the operating temp of the tranny in half.

You can see photos and descriptions here on my restoration thread beginning here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and continuing here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and posts 106 and 135.

Not to toot my horn because, as we know, even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every once in a while. I found several and basically overcame the design deficiencies that make the tranny run so hot and destroy itself.

Good luck.



Thanks... Ordered! I never liked how the exhaust/cat is so close to the transmission. Anything that can perhaps prolong the life of the auto I am for it. I would get Rodney's Extreme Valve Body, but I am eventually going with the 5 speed as mentioned. I am happy that I got a base line reading from my transmission gauge before I this exhaust wrap, that way I can compare temps with and without wrap.. We will see, definitely won't hurt anything... Thanks again...
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
811
Location
New Mexico
@cc93cruiser...your are cruising toward a very big bill if you don't intervene immediately on this. Yes, the auto trannies always ran hot. There are several things that contribute to it that are flat out a design deficiency of the vehicle. Don't take the advice to ignore it, "It's a Land Cruiser." I can tell you after living with mine for 30 years as an original owner, that will take a big bite of our your ass and wallet. The tranny heat is a killer.

I presumed as you. I was too busy to intervene ten years ago, and had to have the tranny rebuilt. It drove as a daily driver for two more years, then was largely retired. This past year I jumped into restoration. I had originally planned a 5-speed mod, but started studying the auto closer. I learned the factors that contribute to the tranny running so hot. I went to work to overcome it.

Many members here have given you good advice, but not what will be the most effective in bringing your tranny operating temp down...and I mean WAY down. I took all those same suggestions, and some that no body else has done to my knowledge here. @BlackCat has come the closest.

I began drive testing like you with a digital thermometer, and I was in the same boat; tranny with a load reaching 300 or so. Upon completion of my mods/improvements, I'm now running 145-165!!!

The factor that nobody seems to notice, but I discovered and addressed was the effect that intense radiant heat from the nearby exhaust is contributing to tranny operating temp. It's a huge factor. It's easy to identify with your digital thermometer by shooting both driver side of the tranny and the passenger side. What to do? Below is what I did.

I did this as a building block approach. First I figured out how to install a 12" condenser fan. Then I replaced my aging radiator with a new one with an integral transcooler. At the same time I added a 70268 transcooler directly in front of the condenser fan, plumbing it in series with the new radiator. I tested at this point, and the cooling was dramatic, but "imbalanced." The driver side was still considerably hotter. The solution to that was this Amazon product. This heat shield attaches directly to the exhaust where it is closest to the tranny. It is designed to stand off from the exhaust about 1/4" or so. So the fabric shields, and their is air passing between it and the exhaust.

Tested again, and this was the final improvement. This all basically cut the operating temp of the tranny in half.

You can see photos and descriptions here on my restoration thread beginning here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and continuing here Builds - Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 and posts 106 and 135.

Not to toot my horn because, as we know, even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every once in a while. I found several and basically overcame the design deficiencies that make the tranny run so hot and destroy itself.

Good luck.
@LCnAZ do you recall what size shield you ended up using?
Thank you, for ALL of your info, here and the other posts.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
@LCnAZ do you recall what size shield you ended up using?
Thank you, for ALL of your info, here and the other posts.
I believe he used the one he provided on his link. It is the 1' long one. I took a quick peek under the 62 and the area he is talking about is about 18", but there is a exhaust mount/clamp half way and any wrap if this sort longer than a foot would not wrap around exhaust because of hanger/exhaust clamp..
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
692
Location
Tucson, AZ
@LCnAZ do you recall what size shield you ended up using?
Thank you, for ALL of your info, here and the other posts.

6" x 1'. That's about all that will fit easily, and all that is needed. You will have to fit it carefully as the fittings for this are near an 02 sensor.

In some of my photos you may notice that I also wrapped part of my exhaust. I will remove that, but since weather is so dry here, I'm not worried about rust like some of you in different climates might, with good cause.

My pleasure. After 10 years here, it's give back time.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
692
Location
Tucson, AZ
@LCnAZ do you recall what size shield you ended up using?
Thank you, for ALL of your info, here and the other posts.

I also switched to synthetic ATF and transfer oil at the same time as all this. Drop the pan and clean the mesh filter. Replace tranny pan gasket. I used Toyota cork with a film of RTV. Don't overtighten.

Rodney flush is a good idea, too. Be sure to include both heater cores. When the new radiator went in, also did new t-stat and t-stat gasket. Engine temp now rock steady (+/- .25 needle width) under all conditions. New Toyota Red and distilled water.

Now that we are in the AZ summer, that condenser fan is helping the air conditioning. Never anything but cold.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
811
Location
New Mexico
6" x 1'. That's about all that will fit easily, and all that is needed. You will have to fit it carefully as the fittings for this are near an 02 sensor.

In some of my photos you may notice that I also wrapped part of my exhaust. I will remove that, but since weather is so dry here, I'm not worried about rust like some of you in different climates might, with good cause.

My pleasure. After 10 years here, it's give back time.
I thought there was a wrap involved!
Thank you!
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Ready for reassembly.. All parts dipped and cleaned with good ole diesel and new parts/seals/gaskets arrived from Valley Hybrids.. Big thanks to Georg @orangefj45 for the awesome products/pricing and extremely fast shipping... thanks to them I will have this buttoned up by the weekend...:cheers:

20190605_173442.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Winch time.... So I purchased a ARB for the 62 and I noticed that the only way to mount a compatible winch to bumper would be to get a winch that can be installed feet first and not upright...I had a Superwinch 9.5isr that my dad gave me years ago sitting in my garage.. Only problem was it did not have a removable solenoid box and could only be installed upright... I noticed that there was a big huge hole/empty space in between bumper and grille where a custom winch plate could be cut out and installed to fit.. I took measurements and noticed I could mount plate on top of arb frame brackets and still fit once bumper was reinstalled. So we took a trip to our local metal yard and had a cutout cardboard template with all exact measurements..... 3/8" steel plate was used..... here are some pics of winch on plate before bumper goes back on the ARB frame rails....

20190621_130508.jpg


20190621_130458.jpg


20190621_130440.jpg


20190621_130413.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Sooo.... Because ARB sits up really high, the bumper covers the oem turn signals and I didn't wire up the ARB turn signals that are intergrated to the bumper with the oem turn signals.. I wired them with the front corner marker lights... I purchased a cheap set of waterproof led marker lights that I am thinking about installing on arb and wiring them up to the oem turn signals.... was wondering what you guys think about mounting these on the area shown on pic ...there just mocked up on arb with some duct tape to hold up and I can see how they look.. Yea or na? Sorry for crappy pics...

Resized_20190702_080911_9297.jpg


Resized_20190702_080858_8515.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
2,544
Location
Hayward, Ca.
Rear brakes done... Recently while driving, I was getting a clicking noise from the rear passenger side tire, so I decided to dig in.. While taking apart all the little springs and springs and more springs in the rear brakes, the pads came off and I noticed that the brake cylinder from one side was actually leaking past the rubber seal on one of the pistons.. Time for a swap... I bought new springs/brake hardware, rotors and pads plus new brake cylinders... Job was pretty straight forward, had not messed with drum brakes for awhile now... Forgot how those little springs can be a little pesky to mess with.... All wrapped up... Made sure to use anti seize on the threads of the rear brake adjusters.. Time to bleed brakes tomorrow and go out for a test drive...

drum brake-1.jpg


20190812_122036.jpg


20190812_121853.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom