Builds New FJ62 owner (RD 2 with a 60 series) (1 Viewer)

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Damn...but bro your shackles were on backwards. :hillbilly::poof:

lol... When I flipped the rig shackles flipped too, I swear. Young and dumb, I bought the truck as is and never did any maintenance or work. That was part of why I rolled out. Brakes went out on me because of previous owner doing a hack job on front calipers and my dumb arse not giving everything a once over when I got it..
 
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RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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What gear ratio do you have in your diffs and what diameter are your tires? I think that's where you will find the ultimate answer.
 

Spook50

My daughter likes Stitch
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but with the cooler installed would this raise the ATF capacity a bit, if it does how much extra fluid do I need to add with the Cooler?
Yes, it does. My best guess is about a quart to fill the cooler and the extra lines on the system. Maybe just a hair less.
 
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What gear ratio do you have in your diffs and what diameter are your tires? I think that's where you will find the ultimate answer.
Stock 4.11s on 33×12.5's...Sure hope all the drivetrain components of the 62 land cruiser can handle 33s...After all, this is an wagon on a 1 ton chassis/drivetrain...
 
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33's will overheat the transmission on uphills. You won't be able to hold 4th gear and the torque converter won't lock up.

You need to go to 31's or regear even after you install the cooler. You're going to spend $2,000 to rebuild that A440F if you continue to drive with 33's and stock gears. It's only a matter of time.

You also need a nice gauge to monitor temps so you know when you are running it hot and slow down or stop before you roast it.
 
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Odessa Tx
I agree with Randy. 33's will put a pretty good strain on everything especially at highway speeds and uphill.

Also might need to check your radiator out make sure it has good air flow, your fan clutch, and your fan shroud to make sure its cooling everything as much as possible. When my radiator gave up my transmission temp light was the first to pop up and then the engine started running hot about 30 miles later.
 
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33's will overheat the transmission on uphills. You won't be able to hold 4th gear and the torque converter won't lock up.

You need to go to 31's or regear even after you install the cooler. You're going to spend $2,000 to rebuild that A440F if you continue to drive with 33's and stock gears. It's only a matter of time.

You also need a nice gauge to monitor temps so you know when you are running it hot and slow down or stop before you roast it.
I agree with Randy. 33's will put a pretty good strain on everything especially at highway speeds and uphill.

Also might need to check your radiator out make sure it has good air flow, your fan clutch, and your fan shroud to make sure its cooling everything as much as possible. When my radiator gave up my transmission temp light was the first to pop up and then the engine started running hot about 30 miles later.
Really? Well, we will see I guess. Better start saving for the H55F swap then. Any specific AT temp sensor/gauge you guys run to monitor the temps on the transmission? Assuming you tap and drill sensor into the transmission pan? If I monitor the tranny temps, would love to know the TC temps instead of the fluid pan temps..
 
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Yes really. Big tires require regearing with the A440F. There is no way around it. No one here will be able to argue with this unless they bought an extreme valve body to lock their torque converter up in 3rd gear.

Rodney at wholesale automatics sells a good temp kit. There are many other kits in the US that will work too. I bought sunpro and it sucked.


-Regear
-AT cooler
-nice gauge to monitor

If you can't afford to prioritize those three things then you will do what I and many others have done....overheat your transmission to death.
 
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Since the wisdom of this site says that the H55f > any other transmission ever made - A440f is junk, h41 is junk and h42 also total junk.

Advantage - many of the these junk 4 speeds that burdened 60 series are collecting dust, replaced by h55f’s. The 4 speeds are so valueless, you could probably get paid to haul one away.

You could 4 speed swap your cruiser for next to nothing. It’s a bit of work, but if you do your research and use the correct parts all of the hard work is done for later on, once you drink the 5 speed kool aid.
 
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*Questions for the H55F swap gurus*

If I purchased a post 5/85 FJ60 parts truck with all the manual transmission parts ( Driveshafts/Bell housing/Flywheel/Cross member), would these parts be direct bolt on parts for the H55F conversion? I understand the bell housing is from a 2F and the cross member would be for the H42.. Just wondering if the FJ60 cross member would bolt up to the FJ62 frame/ H55F? Or is a custom cross member completely necessary ? Also, would the 2F bell housing work for the swap or does it need to be from a 3F?
 
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Quick update on small fixes/bugs on my 62. When I bought my 62, the windshield washer was broken so I decided to start looking for a replacement... Not willing to spend upwards of 70 bucks for a 30 year old oem unit (New part discontinued from Mr. T) just to have the tank's aged, brittle plastic crack on me. I went with a cheap unit about 30 bucks from Amazon... I have not installed it yet because I having to test fit it and see where I want to mount it, might need to fab up a mounting bracket.. What I can report on is that the oem electric water motor for the oem unit fits snuggly in the Amazon tank if you remove the one that came with..

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Did a bunch of research to come up on my own with a good way to mount a tranny sensor to keep my eyes on the tranny temps now that I am going to install a cooler too.. I seen a nice set up for sale from Rodney from Australia, but just to expensive and wanted to source parts on my own.. I found a brass T manifold that was a 3/8"s npt female fittings all the way across..Then I got 2 male 3/8" barbed fittings to attach to manifold T and rubber ATF out hose to radiator.. Got a cheap analog Gauge kit from Glowshift that reads Oil Temp.. Went with this gauge instead of Tranny temp gauge because meter goes up to 300°F ( not that I ever want to see those temps again, or that damn transmission light on oem shifter).. The sensor is a 1/8" npt fitting, so I had to get 3/8" male to 1/8" female reducer to get sensor to work... Since the sensor fits kinda high from where fluid flows through center of T manifold, I will mount the whole unit upside down with sensor facing ground. Let me know if you guys see any forceable problems with my set up...

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cruisermatt

Un-manufacturable
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Ive seen that pic of your old 60 rolled over reposted a few times over the years. Good reminder to put a cage in mine.
You can go through my build thread for manual swap information if you’d like it’s all there. Nice stripes.
 
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portland oregon
33's will overheat the transmission on uphills. You won't be able to hold 4th gear and the torque converter won't lock up.
can confirm this 100%. (I'm now running H55 - 5speed) but that was exactly my experience on a summer road trip before I swapped out the auto.
3FE + A440F + 33's = lots of 'gear hunting' never quite getting lockup - finally get the speed up - finally get lockup - climb a slight grade - lose speed, lose lockup, mash foot to floor - kickdown, gain speed - finally get lockup - lose speed - watch fuel needle fall - rinse/ repeat.
 
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Finally got time to install my Hayden Tranny Cooler and install a tranny temp gauge w/sensor... Also wired some ol skool IPF aux. lights for my new ARB that is going in in a couple days. Used a switch from Amazon claiming to be Toyota oem, but has china markings on it. Either way, it fit perfect on dash cut out...Installed my transmission sensor on hose right before my aux. cooler.. So by the time the temp sensor reads the fluid has already cooled down a bit from passing thru oem radiator ...Oh well. Better thsn just having the stupid light pop uo on shifter..Here are some random pics....And yes, it was a Bitch trying to find m16x1.5 and m14 fittings that my Aux tranny Cooler did not cone with to connect factory tranny cooler lines to new rubber hoses...

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Nice job with the inline temp sensor/gauge, l like that. You said it is inline after the OEM radiator cooler, or is it inline after the new aux cooler? So has the ATF been cooled once before the temp sensor or twice?

A more real time measure of what the trans is experiencing would be to locate the temp sensor between the trans and radiator BEFORE it hits the OEM radiator cooler. The trans cooler lines are low pressure, that temp sensor manifold could be easily spliced in with some clamps anywhere in the circuit.

What would be interesting, and not sure if it has been documented before, would be to place three different temp sensors in the trans cooler circuit:
1. Between the trans and OEM radiator cooler
2. After the OEM radiator cooler
3. After the auxiliary cooler

It would be cool (ooh, pun) to see how effective each type of cooler is on the ATF. I would especially like to see how well the original radiator based trans cooler actually works.
 
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Nice job with the inline temp sensor/gauge, l like that. You said it is inline after the OEM radiator cooler, or is it inline after the new aux cooler? So has the ATF been cooled once before the temp sensor or twice?

A more real time measure of what the trans is experiencing would be to locate the temp sensor between the trans and radiator BEFORE it hits the OEM radiator cooler. The trans cooler lines are low pressure, that temp sensor manifold could be easily spliced in with some clamps anywhere in the circuit.

What would be interesting, and not sure if it has been documented before, would be to place three different temp sensors in the trans cooler circuit:
1. Between the trans and OEM radiator cooler
2. After the OEM radiator cooler
3. After the auxiliary cooler

It would be cool (ooh, pun) to see how effective each type of cooler is on the ATF. I would especially like to see how well the original radiator based trans cooler actually works.
I wanted to put sensor before fluid entered any cooler, oem radiator or aux unit... I understand that my temp reading is going to be from when the fluid had already entered the oem cooler and cooled a tad because of it. I figure any real time readings are better than a dumb light, plus I figure that some people actually take reading from fluid in oil pan by placing sensor in pan.

I have not started the truck nor have I driven it.. Can't wait to test out gauge and see my temps hopefully drop enough to make a difference....
 

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