New engine for my lj78 (1 Viewer)

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Yes mine also had water pitting in the cylinders. That in combination with the piston seizing is why I chose sleeving over re-boring. I didn't want to bother trying to guess how deep the rust damage was.
As for finding resleeve kits , all the 2lt rebuild kits i found on my net searches were sleeve kits. They were all in the $650 range. Some had straight sleeves some had flanged sleeves. I ordered a straight sleeve Kit. The machine shop I found that would work on diesels did not want to use the straight sleeves so I had to order a second set of flanged sleves @ $78 +$50 shipping UAE.
The flanged sleeves were standard bore but extended slightly past the original bore. I had to do a little die grinding to accommodate the piston oilers and add additional clearance for the connecting rods. The the rods did not contact the sleeves but were very close. You can see how much i removed from the sleeves
In the block pics.

Wow, good work! That's pretty impressive.

What sort of procedure do you intend to follow for bedding in the rings? This always seems to be the most critical thing with these sorts of diesel rebuilds. Special break-in oil? Load it down hard on a long haul?

A friend of mine bought a rusty LJ78 with blown trans (owner bypassed cooler and burnt it) and parted it out. It had a perfect compression 2LTE, so I bought the short block from him for $700CAD. I replaced bearings/seals/gaskets but left the pistons/bores/rings alone. My pics here: 2LTE semi-rebuild Still running excellent a couple years later.
 
Well err. As far as special break in procedures go im going to run it On Napa 10w40 non synthetic oil with a molybdenum break in additive. I have read on this forum that going straight to spendy synthetic oils make the cylinder break in take forever. After a few hundred miles ill change out the oil and filter and go another 3k miles on just 10w40 before switching to Rotella 5w40 full synthetic. I run Rotella in all my vehicles.

i like look of that black valve cover on your engine. I might do that to mine. I also like the way you have your intercooler tucked in. Looks very clean.
 
Well err. As far as special break in procedures go im going to run it On Napa 10w40 non synthetic oil with a molybdenum break in additive. I have read on this forum that going straight to spendy synthetic oils make the cylinder break in take forever. After a few hundred miles ill change out the oil and filter and go another 3k miles on just 10w40 before switching to Rotella 5w40 full synthetic. I run Rotella in all my vehicles.

i like look of that black valve cover on your engine. I might do that to mine. I also like the way you have your intercooler tucked in. Looks very clean.

Sounds like a good plan re: breakin. And thanks for the comments!
 
Wow, that was quick work! Hopefully this engine's got a long life ahead of it now.
 
Some destruction pics. One mile without oil pressure. Only #s1and4 were dammaged none of the bearings were spun
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finally got the head gasket. Decided to follow the instructions this time and torque to 58lbs then do two additional 90* rotations. Thought for sure i was going to break a head bolt but all went well. gotta push hard and quick and follow through. Oh and pregrease the bolts. All i have left to do Now is put on the hood and fill the fluids, hook up the battery and see how it goes.
 
Well, I drove it about 100mi and it didnt explode one time 😃. And It ran great.
no leaks no smoke no vibrations. Noticeable less black smoke with thinner head gasket and higher torque. No clutch slip no driveline vibration. Ujoints must have been worst than they looked. Glad I changed them.
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Nice work man!! I hope it lasts you a long long time.

Have you blocked off the EGR? Do you run a catch can to keep oil out of the intake? Both those things will keep your engine intake tract clean and breathing well for years to come.
 
Oil is vented to air. Egr and throttle plate are long gone. Turbo is pumped up a bit. New Injection pump seems to be turned up already so I didnt turn the fuel up any more. I am using Zener diode boost fooler on the map-sensor. Boost is maxing out @ 18psi. Cant get the egts over 450c post turbo. If I start towing Ill get an intercooler but for now all thins seem to be working fine as is. Getting 28mpg today. I am trying to hook up an aux oil pressure gauge but and currently stuck trying to find an adaptor that fits the toyota sending unit hole.
 

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