New 98 LX, few questions and recommends

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Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Threads
4
Messages
11
Location
Boston, MA
Hello everyone,


I just wanted to introduce myself as I recently purchased a 1998 Lexus Lx 470 with 126k. I’ve been going through the forum and I think I’m getting the hang of things. Coming from sport cars....this is a different beast. But I’m glad I made the transition as I wanted to explore more places Off-road in the near future. With that being said, I just have a questions. Looking for an old man emu 2.5 lift kit and OEM CV joints. My AHC doesnt work and the cv is leaking.

Which vendor has good rating and competitive prices?

Thanks!
Kyle
 
Hi Kyle, welcome!

This seems to be my "broken record" greeting to new members, but before you plan on ripping out AHC, spend a small amount of time figuring out what's broken. If the system is rusted and leaking all over, sure rip it out. If it just needs torsion bar adjustments and new springs, do some research before you commit to an inferior lift. Fixing AHC is often cheap and easy.

The OME 2.5" lift is expensive to do right (UCAs required) and offers an arguably terrible ride quality. It's often cheaper to fix AHC, but if you do revert to conventional suspension I'd advise a different suspension setup.
 
Hi Kyle, welcome!

This seems to be my "broken record" greeting to new members, but before you plan on ripping out AHC, spend a small amount of time figuring out what's broken. If the system is rusted and leaking all over, sure rip it out. If it just needs torsion bar adjustments and new springs, do some research before you commit to an inferior lift. Fixing AHC is often cheap and easy.

The OME 2.5" lift is expensive to do right (UCAs required) and offers an arguably terrible ride quality. It's often cheaper to fix AHC, but if you do revert to conventional suspension I'd advise a different suspension setup.
I agree with @suprarx7nut
Also, IIRC, the AHC in high mode is technically a taller lift than most of the aftermarket kits offer, while also retaining the ability to drop into low so you can still fit in a garage.
 
I agree with @suprarx7nut
Also, IIRC, the AHC in high mode is technically a taller lift than most of the aftermarket kits offer, while also retaining the ability to drop into low so you can still fit in a garage.

That's a part of what kills me on this whole topic. AHC is a taller lift than a "lift". If you remove AHC for a typical lift kit you've lowered your vehicle. It's all kinds of backwards.
 
My opinion would be keep in stock ride height and diagnose the AHC further.
>>I come from new england, and it looks like your in boston. I do feel you on the rocky rough roads in some areas, but unless your going to go way North in Maine every trail is more then possible with stock height from the Adirondacks to the White mountains.

For your other issues, I usually go on google and type " whatever the question is " and follow up with " land cruiser 100 series ih8mud " and you can find tons of existing info for your research phase.
 
cv can be rebooted and save an expensive oem cv but inspect outer splines first to determine if it's worth rebooting. a severely worn axle has to be replaced.

also. lots of newbies here. no need to fear. please change your title, its a little inappropriate.
 
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That's a part of what kills me on this whole topic. AHC is a taller lift than a "lift". If you remove AHC for a typical lift kit you've lowered your vehicle. It's all kinds of backwards.
Exactly! Makes zero sense to me.

inspect outer splines first to determine if it's worth rebooting. a severely worn axle has to be replaced
If the inner joint and shaft are OK (typically are fine and just need new boot), then only the outer shaft and joint need replaced, which can be bought from Toyota for 1/2 the price of a new axle assembly.
 
I agree with @suprarx7nut
Also, IIRC, the AHC in high mode is technically a taller lift than most of the aftermarket kits offer, while also retaining the ability to drop into low so you can still fit in a garage.

I believe we're starting to get into the mythical status for AHC at this point...

On my 2006, with AHC, I was getting:​
~17.5 Low​
~19.5 Normal​
~21.0 High​
~22.3 Extra High​
~22.75 Full Droop​
On my 2006, with aftermarket lift/UCA (not OME), I'm getting:​
~21.5 at rest​
~23.75 Full Droop​

While technically "extra high" is taller than the typical lift, "high" is not (at least in my case) and neither ("high" or "extra high") is really drivable beyond parking lot speeds, without some more "droop" (read aftermarket UCAs).

No, you're not going to get much better than AHC with the base OME kit, and the ride is going to change very much for the worse with the OME kit. If you're willing to spend about ~2x the cost of the base OME, it is possible to get more lift and droop than the AHC "high". It would take a good bit more money to equal the AHC "extra high" and still have enough droop to be drivable.

AHC is a heck of a system, when within spec, and it is worth keeping if at all possible, but it is not quite magical.

From my perspective the big advantages to AHC are:
on road ride​
on road handling​
off road articulation​
off road low speed height, without the on road compromise​
absolute height, if high centered​
ability to lower, in low clearance situation​
 
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I believe we're starting to get into the mythical status for AHC at this point...

On my 2006, I was getting:​
~17.5 Low​
~19.5 Normal​
~21.0 High​
~22.3 Extra High​
~22.75 Full Droop​

While technically "extra high" is taller than the typical lift, "high" is not (at least in my case) and neither ("high" or "extra high") is really drivable beyond parking lot speeds, without some more "droop" (read aftermarket UCAs).

No, you're not going to get much better than AHC with the base OME kit, and the ride is going to change very much for the worse with the OME kit. If you're willing to spend about ~2x the cost of the base OME, it is possible to get more lift and droop than the AHC "high". It would take a good bit more money to equal the AHC "extra high" and still have enough droop to be drivable.

AHC is a heck of a system, when within spec, and it is worth keeping if at all possible, but it is not quite magical.

That's fair. AHC is about equal to the normal 2.5" lifts if you consider regular high mode (about 2.25-2.5 inches for me). Keep in mind, though, you can bump the sensors a bit and achieve another .5-1" with AHC giving it the edge. Droop probably suffers then, but I'm not sure how those figures compare. That's a bit of a limitation with the lifts too, I think.

Either way, good discussion for folks to consider.
 
Like a virgin, hey
Touched for the very first time
Like a virgin
With your AHC
Next to mine

It really is great system........

Whoa
Whoa, ah
Whoa
 
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I believe we're starting to get into the mythical status for AHC at this point...

On my 2006, with AHC, I was getting:​
~17.5 Low​
~19.5 Normal​
~21.0 High​
~22.3 Extra High​
~22.75 Full Droop​
On my 2006, with aftermarket lift/UCA (not OME), I'm getting:​
~21.5 at rest​
~23.75 Full Droop​

While technically "extra high" is taller than the typical lift, "high" is not (at least in my case) and neither ("high" or "extra high") is really drivable beyond parking lot speeds, without some more "droop" (read aftermarket UCAs).

No, you're not going to get much better than AHC with the base OME kit, and the ride is going to change very much for the worse with the OME kit. If you're willing to spend about ~2x the cost of the base OME, it is possible to get more lift and droop than the AHC "high". It would take a good bit more money to equal the AHC "extra high" and still have enough droop to be drivable.

AHC is a heck of a system, when within spec, and it is worth keeping if at all possible, but it is not quite magical.

From my perspective the big advantages to AHC are:
on road ride​
on road handling​
off road articulation​
off road low speed height, without the on road compromise​
absolute height, if high centered​
ability to lower, in low clearance situation​
This feels about right to me as well. AHC is likely smoother overall on and possibly off road, but the suspension (springs torsion bars) is not really the limiting factor, it is the control arms etc, which are the same between the LC and LX. So I don't think that there is ever going to be a lot of difference in potential max height, unless you get rid of all droop (which can be accomplished in either, and is never a good idea anyway). I'm at 21.75 in the front, for reference, which is over the "high" setting on AHC with appropriate droop.
 
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My opinion would be keep in stock ride height and diagnose the AHC further.
>>I come from new england, and it looks like your in boston. I do feel you on the rocky rough roads in some areas, but unless your going to go way North in Maine every trail is more then possible with stock height from the Adirondacks to the White mountains.

For your other issues, I usually go on google and type " whatever the question is " and follow up with " land cruiser 100 series ih8mud " and you can find tons of existing info for your research phase.

I do the same thing when searching questions.
 
Hi Kyle, welcome!

This seems to be my "broken record" greeting to new members, but before you plan on ripping out AHC, spend a small amount of time figuring out what's broken. If the system is rusted and leaking all over, sure rip it out. If it just needs torsion bar adjustments and new springs, do some research before you commit to an inferior lift. Fixing AHC is often cheap and easy.

The OME 2.5" lift is expensive to do right (UCAs required) and offers an arguably terrible ride quality. It's often cheaper to fix AHC, but if you do revert to conventional suspension I'd advise a different suspension setup.

Thank you for the warm welcome. Okay sounds like a weekend plan to diagnose the problem. As of now , the front suspension stuck and low while the rear is at normal height. Haven’t had the opportunity to fully and complete diagnosis the problem. But when I drive today it’s back to normal height.
The other issue is when I put it on high, the light blinks on H and goes up. However a few seconds later it comes back down. I did the graduation test and it was about 7 but that was 4 four months ago.

I’m going to flush the ACH and go from there. I love the comfortable ride of the ACH but just like any forums there are many options.

I do appreciate it.

Kyle
 
I agree with @suprarx7nut
Also, IIRC, the AHC in high mode is technically a taller lift than most of the aftermarket kits offer, while also retaining the ability to drop into low so you can still fit in a garage.

The options of the AHC is something I want to keep with the adjustability for that reason with the garages here in Mass.
 
That's a part of what kills me on this whole topic. AHC is a taller lift than a "lift". If you remove AHC for a typical lift kit you've lowered your vehicle. It's all kinds of backwards.

That I did not know..maybe I Just need to read more. Also not blaming my buddies that’ve been off-roading for years suggested it. 🤷🏽‍♂️ Lol. They’re bad influencers.
 
cv can be rebooted and save an expensive oem cv but inspect outer splines first to determine if it's worth rebooting. a severely worn axle has to be replaced.

also. lots of newbies here. no need to fear. please change your title, its a little inappropriate.

Will do. 👍
 
That I did not know..maybe I Just need to read more. Also not blaming my buddies that’ve been off-roading for years suggested it. 🤷🏽‍♂️ Lol. They’re bad influencers.

It's totally understandable and "off-roaders" are probably more likely to say "screw that complicated nonsense and buy some 'real' shocks."

Let us know how the investigating goes. The gradation test isn't really valid until you correct neutral pressures so you might have more gradations if the front torsion bars need adjustment. The front going low on you has me thinking you might need to adjust the front torsion bars to lower pressure.
 

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