New 4WD Toyota Owner-Wholesale automatic transmissions article

[jynx]

So I was glad to see a new copy of 4wd toy owner on the table when I got home this afternoon, but after skimming thru it I read the article about the wholesale automatic valve body and other goodies from WAT, but I am curious about some pricing quotes, they mention the Extreme valve body is a shade under $700 in the article, but at West coast cruisers they list the stage 1 kit for over $1,200....

I have been looking at the WAT parts and at $700 I'm in, but I am now confused.

I have not called west coast cruisers to ask them, and plan to tomorrow, but thought I might see if anyone else had sourced any of the WAT parts.

Thanks,

Tucker

 

[OGBeno]

Well give Michael a call and get your questions answered.

 

[CJF]

Wait, WAT?

;p

 

[SiRaDuDe]

Is this the one you are looking at?

Wholesale Automatic Transmissions

This EXTREME service looks nice too...
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/extreme_a442f.asp

 

[80BajaBound]

I've got the whole system - It's impressive. With regards to the price - Call Michael. I'm sure the long boat ride over isn't free.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

The $700 is probably in $AUS and it's a "with turn in" core price. With the exchange rate, shipping to the US, and shipping of the core back to AUS, that's what adds to the cost. The exchange rate is better now, but I've had some small parts shipped from AUS, and it wasn't cheap.

Level 10 up in NJ and a few other shops do some nice valve body upgrades for about the same price ($700) That being said, I'll still get the WAT valve assy for my Hundy wagon

 

[Tennessee Jed]

I read that article and was impressed too - but is that the cure for an old, sloppy transmission? I mean, is it as simple as putting in a new valve body? How can you tell when it's a problem with the transmission itself? (I guess when you spend $1200 for a valve body and it still isn't fixed...)

Not trying to be cynical, just curious how you know this is the fix you need.

 

[jynx]

Well give Michael a call and get your questions answered.

Spoke with Michael this afternoon. Man what a top notch guy. We talked for about a half-hour about transmissions, and cruisers in general. Anyway, per our conversation, the price in the magazine is incorrect, and he even went on to say that he had had a lot of calls regarding the products and prices. Said that the editors had apologized and I would expect there may even be something in a follow-up issue.

Anyway, After a good conversation about my particular situation, and I have to say that I was already leaning this way if /when I needed to do any trans work, but I am definitely going to save my pennies and hopefully around Christmas or first of next year I will have enough to get the valve body and the billet torque converter. He said that the addition of these two items onto a diesel cruiser and it went from a giant slug to chirping the rear tires. So a new rear main seal and a new shiny torque converter are in the not so distant future for me.

Tucker

 

[CycloSteve]

So, what are the correct figures for both items?



Steve

 

[Tools R Us]

For the later, solenoid shifted rigs, it is easy to improve shift firmness. By simply increasing the system pressure I was able to get more than I wanted. It would easily spin 37" tires when in low range, on dirt, with the CDL locked. Had to back off from the first setting that I tried, to get it tuned where I wanted it.

On the early hydraulic trans, the valve body mod can change shift points, etc. On the later trans, the shift points are set by the ECU, so the mod is only going to change shift firmness. For the later trans, I don't see spending the $$$, shift firmness is easy to adjust.

 

[Kernal]

Good to know, how can we change shift firmness for the A343F? IDK

 

[landtank]

For the later, solenoid shifted rigs, it is easy to improve shift firmness. By simply increasing the system pressure I was able to get more than I wanted. It would easily spin 37" tires when in low range, on dirt, with the CDL locked. Had to back off from the first setting that I tried, to get it tuned where I wanted it.

On the early hydraulic trans, the valve body mod can change shift points, etc. On the later trans, the shift points are set by the ECU, so the mod is only going to change shift firmness. For the later trans, I don't see spending the $$$, shift firmness is easy to adjust.

If I remember correctly, you moved up 1 notch from the factory setting, correct?

Your adjustment is on my list of things to do once that truck is mobile.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

For the later, solenoid shifted rigs, it is easy to improve shift firmness. By simply increasing the system pressure I was able to get more than I wanted. It would easily spin 37" tires when in low range, on dirt, with the CDL locked. Had to back off from the first setting that I tried, to get it tuned where I wanted it.

On the early hydraulic trans, the valve body mod can change shift points, etc. On the later trans, the shift points are set by the ECU, so the mod is only going to change shift firmness. For the later trans, I don't see spending the $$$, shift firmness is easy to adjust.

Do you have a write-up on this?

 

[landtank]

Do you have a write-up on this?

right here

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Awesome! Thanks Rick.

 

[Tools R Us]

If I remember correctly, you moved up 1 notch from the factory setting, correct?

Your adjustment is on my list of things to do once that truck is mobile.

Yep, then adjusted the progressive/cable regulator to fine tune. There only was one tighter adjustment point available on the main regulator. If I were to play with it again, would remove the main regulator plug and shim the spring with washers, ~.060" maybe?

The way I see it: The main sets the total system pressure, the progressive lowers it for part throttle smoother shifting needs. For example; if the stock main setting nets "X" total psi. The progressive lowers it to say 1/2X psi at 25% throttle, at 33% throttle maybe 3/4X psi and 50% throttle full X psi. So with the stock setup there is little/no change in firmness/clutch clamping force in the top half of throttle. By increasing the main regulator, it allows the progressive regulator to increase pressure in the upper throttle range.

By simply increasing/adjusting the cable/progressive regulator, it will increase part throttle shift firmness. By increasing the main regulator, then adjusting the progressive to the firmness desired, it greatly increases clutch clamping force in the upper throttle range. This makes a big difference in climbing ledges, etc, less slip more locked up, somewhat closer to a manual trans.