New 2000 LX470 owners with some ideas and a few lingering questions...

[lstyles]

I have been scouring this fantastic IH8MUD forum for a couple of weeks while searching for cars and we just picked up a 2000 LX470 with 240k miles after learning from the forum what to look for. Our LX470 is a single owner vehicle with about 1” thick stack of maintenance records and recent timing belt/water pump/tensioner service as recommended target vehicle by the forum. This car is for use in Baja where we are building a vacation home. As such, for the near future, it will not see much use (~2-5K miles per year) but that will largely be on washboard roads as our home is about 10 miles off the main highway via washboard and sandy roads. At present we do not plan to do any challenging overlanding so I think it would be mostly what I call mild off-roading. The key feature for us in getting a 100 series was reliability without spending too much money on a car that would only see limited use. We care more about not breaking down in an isolated place (miles from anyone) rather than dents/scratches or poor ride quality (the roads are all bumpy anyway). From reviewing the service notes there are a couple of things that I think we will need to get fixed prior to taking it to Mexico. There is a very highly recommended Toyota mechanic about 2 hrs from where our house in Mexico but I am not sure about the availability of parts. As we won’t be using the car that much I also want to keep repair costs to a minimum and mostly focused on repairing things that could leave us stranded.

The CV boots are both torn and from looking at advice on this forum we should probably be thinking about changing out the whole CV axle rather than just re-booting as the undercarriage will see a lot of dirt/sand and there is 240K mile on them already. I am thinking to get some CVJ rebuilt axels to keep costs down while still getting a quality product. There is also mention of a left rear axle seal leaking and I am thinking that this is something we will want to get fixed now but if it isn’t an urgent issue that will strand us somewhere we could defer this. I know that the AHC can be problematic but it appears to be working fine (ie it goes up and down the way it is supposed to and to the correct height). The reservoir is low so I have ordered some more Toyota AHC fluid to get it back up to a reasonable level and test it to see how many graduations it changes. If that looks good I will likely flush it and put in new fluid. I will also ask the guy who does the CV axles to drain and refill the transmission and differential fluid.

Now for a couple of initial questions where I could use a little advice:

• I want to upgrade the tires to something that will stand up to the washboard roads and the sharp rocks. From looking at the forum it looks like I can increase tire size to 287/75/16 without any other suspension changes. I have been looking at the Falken Wildpeak AT3s (and K02s but they seem to be out of stock). Do you think the Falken AT3s are a good choice and will this have any impact on the AHC function? Also, for our given use, do you think that upgrading the shocks (or other suspension parts) would be a good idea? I know very little about such things but I am thinking that if they are going to take the wheels off for new tires and CV axle replacement that it might not be too much more to just change out the shocks. Of course, I don’t want to spend too much on it but would love to hear what you think might be good, not too expensive upgrades.
• We will be taking the car to Mexico soon and as part of this trip we will be towing our 28ft 6000lb trailer. This is a one time, one-way trip and I know this is nearing the maximum towing capacity/payload for the LX470 but we are comfortable towing this trailer and have a good WDH in place and we drive slow/cautiously. We currently tow this trailer with a 2016 VW Touareg TDI which has a lower payload and it works well (no sway) as we travel light both in tow vehicle and trailer. I am wondering if we should consider adding in Airlift air bags for the rare times when we travel so as to reduce sag in the LX470 (guessing tongue weight will be about 750lbs). If it will only be for this one trip then maybe I can knock that off the list of things to do. Suggestions?

Lots of other questions on fixing up the LX470 but will spend more time searching forum prior to posting those so I won't seem to ignorant!

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read such a long post and offering your input,

Lori

 

[Fullthrottle100]

Take my answer with a grain of salt since I am not an expert at all.

I think the wild peaks and the ko2 seem like to two most popular options on here for not extreme off-road. I have 285/75/16 ko2 and they have been great so far. No issue with ahc.

The only reason I could see messing with suspension is to get a better ride on the washboard roads. It was pretty bumpy with stock suspension for me.

As for towing, I think the ahc had auto leveling already? Could be totally wrong on this one.

 

[lstyles]

Thanks for your input. Good to hear that the larger tire size was not an issue with AHC. It would still be nice to know if larger tire size causes any issue when hooked up to trailer and you get some squat. I doubt it’s an issue with rubbing but since the whole wheel well will be pushed down I just want to make sure there won’t be any problems with the larger tires while towing.

 

[ChaoticSquare]

Your rear springs are going to but a huge strain on the AHC when towing the trailer, and realistically should be replaced at this point in their life anyway. There's no way they are close to optimum performance which means the AHC has to compensate. You can got OEM for ~$250 each.... or on ebay you can get a pair of king springs (can't use the cheaper vendor as they won't ship to CA) for less than $300 shipped to your house. Install is a 45 min affair.

With AHC get yourself techstream and a reader; you can find the reader on Amazon for ~$60 (toss the CD that comes with it) and download techstream from the link here. That will allow you to see the pressure in your AHC system. I would be very surprised if your globes are still good. Globes can be purchased from Impex - the process can be clunky but if you go that route it's easy to figure out and folks here will be willing to help. I'm almost done with a guide with screenshots to help folks.

EDIT: Ignore the above springs/globe discussion if they previous owner replaced these within 60-90k.

 

[suprarx7nut]

If it were me and my priority was reliability in Mexico:

1. OEM axles only. Do not buy anything rebuilt and I wouldn't gamble on any aftermarket new. OEM only. They are expensive for a reason.
2. AHC. forget shock replacement. That's not a "thing" with AHC. Get yourself new globes, new fluid and adjust pressures properly based on your heaviest load out. If your load is likely to change drastically from time to time (IE Towing), install air bags within the rear springs. These air bags can then be inflated or deflated to offer adjustable help. AHC has a very dynamic load range, but towing plus cargo and people can add up to more than its dynamic range.
3. AHC isn't really affected by tires. Get whatever you want.
4. If you've got a mechanic that's not totally familiar with AHC and you're going to be in sketchy areas, you may want to consider a conventional swap. I don't often make that suggestion, but being in the boonies of Mexico is more akin to being in the middle of the outback than anything stateside as far as danger of breakdowns goes. If you're going to be in areas where kidnapping is a concern you may want to just convert it. Sounds ridiculous (and hopefully it is for the area you'll be in), but I recall it was just a year or two ago an off-roader was in a high speed chase and hostage situation after inadvertently crossing into cartel territory. Unfortunately, that risk is no joke.

 

[stonepa]

If it were me and my priority was reliability in Mexico:

1. OEM axles only. Do not buy anything rebuilt and I wouldn't gamble on any aftermarket new. OEM only. They are expensive for a reason.
2. AHC. forget shock replacement. That's not a "thing" with AHC. Get yourself new globes, new fluid and adjust pressures properly based on your heaviest load out. If your load is likely to change drastically from time to time (IE Towing), install air bags within the rear springs. These air bags can then be inflated or deflated to offer adjustable help. AHC has a very dynamic load range, but towing plus cargo and people can add up to more than its dynamic range.
3. AHC isn't really affected by tires. Get whatever you want.
4. If you've got a mechanic that's not totally familiar with AHC and you're going to be in sketchy areas, you may want to consider a conventional swap. I don't often make that suggestion, but being in the boonies of Mexico is more akin to being in the middle of the outback than anything stateside as far as danger of breakdowns goes. If you're going to be in areas where kidnapping is a concern you may want to just convert it. Sounds ridiculous (and hopefully it is for the area you'll be in), but I recall it was just a year or two ago an off-roader was in a high speed chase and hostage situation after inadvertently crossing into cartel territory. Unfortunately, that risk is no joke.

Amen to everything here. Especially the security concern and the recommendation to swap to a conventional setup.

The big thing with long runs on washboard roads (hello Baja) is heat due to mechanical action. Shocks will get hot. AHC fluid will too. Tires don’t care but shocks / suspension will. Make sure everything is good to go.

 

[KliersLC]

Lots of good advice on here so far, but I'll add in a couple things that I haven't seen, and a slightly different perspective on a couple others.

1. Tires: yes, the tires you mentioned will work just fine--however, the more important thing is to get the correct version of that tire. I'd recommend the load range E for two reasons--you'll be towing, and it is a tougher tire which makes it less prone to puncture. This durability comes at the cost of ride quality, but if you use the comfort setting, it compensates well and gives a good ride off road.

2. See above as to why the AHC is useful for your situation. A conventional swap makes thing simpler, but reduces capability--up to you to determine what is more important to you--based on what you have described, it will likely be much cheaper short term to keep AHC, but it will require periodic maintenance.

3. Air bags for the rear will get the job done, especially if towing will be a relatively rare occurrence. That much weight will exceed the AHC system's ability to self level, but if you can get creative while loading and reduce the tongue weight, you might be ok--just make sure that you have enough tongue weight or it will get really squirrelly.

4. Even if you don't bother with techstream now, I highly recommend getting the cable and a laptop that is stays in Mexico--you'll eventually need it.

5. No issue with the rear tires and towing--the rear wheel wells are very large.

6. You'll want to upgrade the lighting--I recommend the morimoto HID swap as it is cheap, simple, and reversible. it isn't the best swap, but that is what I have on my LX, and it almost keeps up with the real HID projectors on my 99. you'll also want to replace the high beams with the 9012 HIR bulbs, and possible look at some aftermarket lighting--I'd recommend a minimalist style slim light bar. Also, grab a few spares for the morimoto--long stretches without use coupled with washboard roads may shorten your component lifespan.

My LX is set up for exactly what you are talking about, but I have the king springs as I tow regularly. It performs spectacularly, but, for some of the reasons mentioned above, I would probably choose my 99 for the exact circumstances you describe.
Pics for attention:

 

[lstyles]

Thanks everyone for your advice. First, I appreciate everyone's concern about my safety but I want to reassure you that I have zero concerns about Mexican cartels or other violence where our home will be located in Baja. I have spent a fair amount of time there and my parents used to live there so I feel more comfortable in Baja then I do here in the US. My concern for reliability was more around breaking down in remote locations but most of the places we will travel are off road but have fairly regular traffic. So, in other words, I dont want to break down but if I do, I wont be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no way to get home. So this is where I am so far:
1. Tires-It looks like getting the 285/75 Falken Wild peak At3's will not be a problem. I plan to get the LT variety (10 ply per their website) so that should give me some good off road protection.
2. AHC-I have found a shop that has "dealer level diagnostic capabilities" to evaluate the AHC system. At a minimum I will have them check the pressures and flush out the system with new fluid. I don't plan to delete it as it seems to be working fairly well unless major service/replacement is necessary. It appears that the prior owner never used the system at all. I am going to have the shop evaluate the springs and will likely have them put in air bags at a minimum and perhaps some new springs as well. As I don't plan to overload the LX and will tow only rarely, I am hoping that I can get by with minimal upgrades at this point. I downloaded the Techstream stuff as suggested and have ordered a mini cable so I can monitor things myself in the future.
3.Plan to replace CV axles and have the rear wheel axle seal evaluated (shop has a press to do full repair if necessary).
4. Lighting-I had been thinking about that especially since its dangerous to drive at night in Mexico (mostly because of livestock). I think upgraded headlights and a light bar would be very helpful as street lights on dirt roads are non-existent!
5. Drain and refill transmission and differential fluids

I thought of an additional question to put out there. The car will be in storage (without access to electrical outlet) for months at a time. Can anyone suggest a means to keep battery charged. I have seen small solar panel set ups that will trickle charge but suspect those might "walk away". Is it possible to hook up one of those lithium jump starter batteries to maintain charge? The lithium jump start packs don't discharge much over time and I have had great success with them on cars with dead batteries. Other ideas?
Thanks
Lori

 

[awesomeissquid]

For the battery I would leave it disconnected when in storage and then bring a jump pack with you when you are ready to drive it. Reconnect the battery and use the jump pack to get it a boost to start.

 

[ChaoticSquare]

A correction on the previous owner never using AHC. They always used AHC as it is an active system. The springs and torsion bars in a AHC car support half the car and the AHC system the other half. Your shocks are AHC so it’s impossible that they never got used.

If you are remotely handy you can address the AHC rather than a dealer. If I was still in the Bay Area I’d help you. Just hate to see what they will charge you to hook up tech stream and turn 5 bolts to bleed the system.

 

[KliersLC]

For the battery I would leave it disconnected when in storage and then bring a jump pack with you when you are ready to drive it. Reconnect the battery and use the jump pack to get it a boost to start.

x2. I left my 80 series in a parking lot in Camp Lejeune for 3 months while in Norway. When I got back, I reconnected the battery and it started right up. The lithium battery packs are relatively inexpensive, so I'd get two--one stays charged in the truck, one travels with you. This way, you have redundancy with the battery, which "should" start the truck, the battery pack that "should" stay charged and start the truck, and the 2nd battery pack that is charged and will start the truck.

Now that I've written it out, it seems a little excessive--I suppose you could delete the battery pack in the truck, but I'd still go with two.

As far as the trickle chargers go, there are clean installs that are relatively secure and unobtrusive. I'll see if I can find a pic.

 

[KliersLC]

Ok,

After a little research, it seems solar has advanced significantly, so you have some options. I was initially thinking that a small ~8"x~4" charger siliconed to to roof aft of the sunroof would fit the bill as it is cheap, functional, and hard to walk away with. However, I found some better ideas.

This is the high dollar version, but I realize the look might not be for everyone, especially with a lighter colored vehicle. It could also be installed on the roof and be essentially invisible, but just like my original idea, wiring becomes and issue--not insurmountable, but significant.

This is the budget version, and since it would be inside the LX, maybe it wouldn't grow legs?

This... well, not exactly this, but this pic sparked an idea--you could place a charger in between the sunroof and the sunroof shade--then all that can be observed from outside the vehicle is a few wires. Alternatively, and in my opinion, a much sleeker solution would be to install a thin charger like the one pictured on top of the sunroof shade. There is enough room up there to stow the controller, but it would be a relatively complicated install, as you'd have to make sure you have enough slack in the wire that you can open and close the shade, and also make sure nothing gets caught in the sunroof mechanism when it opens and closes... So, maybe not a great solution for you at this point, but an interesting thought--filed away for future use.

The only other consideration with any of these is how you will connect to the battery. The LX power ports are inactive with the ignition off, but there is a simple relay bypass that you can install in 5 min and costs less than a dollar. This would be required if you wanted to use an internal port to trickle charge the battery, but would also require the battery to be connected.

Alternatively, you can likely get a variant of any of these that has alligator clips, or cut the plug off and connect your own--again, very cheap and easy and would allow you to disconnect the battery from the vehicle.

 

[KliersLC]

4. Lighting-I had been thinking about that especially since its dangerous to drive at night in Mexico (mostly because of livestock). I think upgraded headlights and a light bar would be very helpful as street lights on dirt roads are non-existent!

Two other considerations:

But first, apologies if we come across as annoying--there are a wide variety of folks here, and opinions run the gamut from "take everything that you might ever possibly need and replace all parts with new OEM" to "throw a quart of oil in the back and lets roll." As with most things, finding a balance is key, and each person has to figure out where that balance is for them--cost vs. benefit, risk vs. probability, etc.

First issue: Rodents--there are lots of solutions, but these trucks seem to attract critters. However you address the issue, it is important, as not addressing it could be disastrous.

Second issue: If livestock is a significant problem, you might look into an ARB, TJM, or IronMan bumper. There are other options out there, but those three are typically the cheapest and most widely available. Keep in mind that most sites will tell you that the ARB sahara bar is the only ARB bar that will fit, but if you like the standard bar better, it will fit just fine with the removal of two small tabs that interfere with the LX grill when you open the hood.

I look at my bumpers this way: If I hit an animal with my factory bumper, my hood, fender(s) bumper, and grill will be destroyed, and I might lose my radiator, PS cooler, transmission cooler, and AC condenser. This means I am stuck wherever I'm at for quite some time. In addition, the cost to replace all of those bits easily exceeds the cost of an aftermarket bumper, and one typically drives away from an animal strike with no damage or minimal damage. Depending on the size of animals you may encounter, and how fast you are going, this could be a huge issue, or a non-issue....

This is from a 60 mph deer strike in a 200 series, and it also cost him a transmission...

 

[cwmoser]

I would think you are definitely going to be overloaded towing that 6,000lb dry travel trailer.
So definitely get the WHD setup properly to distribute the tongue weight over both the front and rear axles.
AND use Anti-Sway bars.

A 6,000lb trailer should have a 10-15% tong weight - 600 - 900lbs.
The maximum tongue weight for these LX's is 600lbs, but check your hitch as mine is only good for 650lbs only if I use WDH, else its 500lbs.

Here is a PDF of a Towing Capacity worksheet with your 6,000 lb dry weight trailer.
I used it to calculate maximums with out 3,900lb dry weight trailer, but I replaced 3,900 with your 6,000 lbs.
I can't attach the actual Excel Spreadsheet as the Attach files button doesn't accept it.

 

[lstyles]

A correction on the previous owner never using AHC. They always used AHC as it is an active system. The springs and torsion bars in a AHC car support half the car and the AHC system the other half. Your shocks are AHC so it’s impossible that they never got used.

If you are remotely handy you can address the AHC rather than a dealer. If I was still in the Bay Area I’d help you. Just hate to see what they will charge you to hook up tech stream and turn 5 bolts to bleed the system.

Thanks for the input on the AHC. I thought one could turn off the AHC as there are instructions in the manual to turn it off prior to jacking it up or towing it and there is a button that says "height control" with "off" right next to it. That doesnt turn it off?
The shop where I am taking the car to be fixed seems to have familiarity with AHC (owner has an LX so thinking that helps). I have ordered the cable and have techstream but dont really have the knowledge to adjust things to bring the pressures into specs. If its just a matter of bleeding the AHC, I feel comfortable I can do that on my own.
I appreciate the offer with help if you were still local...my loss!

 

[lstyles]

x2. I left my 80 series in a parking lot in Camp Lejeune for 3 months while in Norway. When I got back, I reconnected the battery and it started right up. The lithium battery packs are relatively inexpensive, so I'd get two--one stays charged in the truck, one travels with you. This way, you have redundancy with the battery, which "should" start the truck, the battery pack that "should" stay charged and start the truck, and the 2nd battery pack that is charged and will start the truck.

Now that I've written it out, it seems a little excessive--I suppose you could delete the battery pack in the truck, but I'd still go with two.

As far as the trickle chargers go, there are clean installs that are relatively secure and unobtrusive. I'll see if I can find a pic.

I think I have decided to leave it connected and bring a lithium battery jumper in case it drains. I am not concerned about a one-off event where its dead but rather that repeated events of the battery going dead tend to shorten the life of the battery. For the foreseable future I should be using the LX every month or so hope that the battery won't discharge in that time. The storage facility also has capability of staring car for me every so often. I may opt for a solar panel trickle charger in the future as I think it may be wise to have a device to discourage rodents from living in my car. Need to find out more about that!

 

[lstyles]

Ok,

After a little research, it seems solar has advanced significantly, so you have some options. I was initially thinking that a small ~8"x~4" charger siliconed to to roof aft of the sunroof would fit the bill as it is cheap, functional, and hard to walk away with. However, I found some better ideas.
View attachment 2865780
This is the high dollar version, but I realize the look might not be for everyone, especially with a lighter colored vehicle. It could also be installed on the roof and be essentially invisible, but just like my original idea, wiring becomes and issue--not insurmountable, but significant.
View attachment 2865781
This is the budget version, and since it would be inside the LX, maybe it wouldn't grow legs?
View attachment 2865782
This... well, not exactly this, but this pic sparked an idea--you could place a charger in between the sunroof and the sunroof shade--then all that can be observed from outside the vehicle is a few wires. Alternatively, and in my opinion, a much sleeker solution would be to install a thin charger like the one pictured on top of the sunroof shade. There is enough room up there to stow the controller, but it would be a relatively complicated install, as you'd have to make sure you have enough slack in the wire that you can open and close the shade, and also make sure nothing gets caught in the sunroof mechanism when it opens and closes... So, maybe not a great solution for you at this point, but an interesting thought--filed away for future use.

The only other consideration with any of these is how you will connect to the battery. The LX power ports are inactive with the ignition off, but there is a simple relay bypass that you can install in 5 min and costs less than a dollar. This would be required if you wanted to use an internal port to trickle charge the battery, but would also require the battery to be connected.

Alternatively, you can likely get a variant of any of these that has alligator clips, or cut the plug off and connect your own--again, very cheap and easy and would allow you to disconnect the battery from the vehicle.

Wow! Thanks for all the information. My issue will be that I plan to have a cover on the car to help protect from harsh Baja sun. With a cover on I will need to figure out how to attach solar panel on cover but I think it can be done. Also, the place where I am thinking of storing the car is completely enclosed and has regular security so risk of "walking away" should be minimal. For the short term, I think I will be using car about every month so hope battery will hold out for that long (unless I need to get something to scare away rodents...need to research that a bit more).

 

[lstyles]

Two other considerations:

But first, apologies if we come across as annoying--there are a wide variety of folks here, and opinions run the gamut from "take everything that you might ever possibly need and replace all parts with new OEM" to "throw a quart of oil in the back and lets roll." As with most things, finding a balance is key, and each person has to figure out where that balance is for them--cost vs. benefit, risk vs. probability, etc.

First issue: Rodents--there are lots of solutions, but these trucks seem to attract critters. However you address the issue, it is important, as not addressing it could be disastrous.

Second issue: If livestock is a significant problem, you might look into an ARB, TJM, or IronMan bumper. There are other options out there, but those three are typically the cheapest and most widely available. Keep in mind that most sites will tell you that the ARB sahara bar is the only ARB bar that will fit, but if you like the standard bar better, it will fit just fine with the removal of two small tabs that interfere with the LX grill when you open the hood.

I look at my bumpers this way: If I hit an animal with my factory bumper, my hood, fender(s) bumper, and grill will be destroyed, and I might lose my radiator, PS cooler, transmission cooler, and AC condenser. This means I am stuck wherever I'm at for quite some time. In addition, the cost to replace all of those bits easily exceeds the cost of an aftermarket bumper, and one typically drives away from an animal strike with no damage or minimal damage. Depending on the size of animals you may encounter, and how fast you are going, this could be a huge issue, or a non-issue....

This is from a 60 mph deer strike in a 200 series, and it also cost him a transmission...
View attachment 2865822

I had forgot about the rodent issue and this could be a big problem. I need to look into that with the location I am storing it. I put in a device on my trailer that shines lights and makes a noise every so often on our trailer when it was stored in Borrego Springs (similar desert environment). It seems to have worked well as no rodent intrusion after 3 months. That will take some power though and it may hasten the discharge of the battery so need to keep that in mind.
As for livestock, as I want to completely avoid hitting them, I want to take the approach to be able to see them sooner and better. The first thing I can do is NEVER drive at night in Baja. That is a hard and fast rule in Baja when out in non-urban areas (most of Baja) and I intend to follow that. However, there are always situations where you need to do something that you dont intend to do so I am thinking that having better night vision is the key to keeping me from hitting livestock. The good news is that I dont have to worry about impact of my lighting on other car traffic as there will be very little other traffic.

 

[lstyles]

I would think you are definitely going to be overloaded towing that 6,000lb dry travel trailer.
So definitely get the WHD setup properly to distribute the tongue weight over both the front and rear axles.
AND use Anti-Sway bars.

A 6,000lb trailer should have a 10-15% tong weight - 600 - 900lbs.
The maximum tongue weight for these LX's is 600lbs, but check your hitch as mine is only good for 650lbs only if I use WDH, else its 500lbs.

Here is a PDF of a Towing Capacity worksheet with your 6,000 lb dry weight trailer.
I used it to calculate maximums with out 3,900lb dry weight trailer, but I replaced 3,900 with your 6,000 lbs.
I can't attach the actual Excel Spreadsheet as the Attach files button doesn't accept it.

Thanks for the input. We are currently towing this trailer with a VW Touareg with even less payload. We use a E2 WDH that works very well. Will use the same hitch on the LX 470. The trailer is very well balanced and I measure our tongue weight with a Sherline scale. I have it dialed in very well. I am going to remove third row seats to get reduce weight in back a little. It will be just me and my husband in the front (all luggage will be in trailer). I am planning on using airbags to help support the AHC for this one way trip with the trailer.

 

[KliersLC]

Storing 100 for 4-6 Weeks at a Time - Battery Question - No Electricity Available for Trickle

Keeping the 100 out in Denver from our house in Missouri for vacations this winter and a "quick" drive to Moab from Denver in the spring/summer. Going to fly out each time, hop in it, and go. The facility where I'm keeping it is indoors, close to Denver International Airport, but has no power...

forum.ih8mud.com

Some good info in that thread.... no first hand experience on my end though.. I had critters in a car one time, set a trap in the trunk and the problem was solved...