I’m sure there are a good amount of threads on this, but I need to replace my Birfields and inner Axels and do the Knuckles while I’m in there. I was looking for something a little more beefy than OEM, and have seen good things about Longfields. Also, do I need to get new end caps? Is there a 1 stop shop that would have everything I need? I’m running 32” Cooper Discovery’s and a 3” lift. Don’t do rock crawling, but love some fun off-road. Thanks in advance.
Need to replace the Birfields/Axles/ and do Knuckle Jobs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kevin Reed
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What kinda car do you have?
What is wrong with yours? Stock ones will work just fine for that use.
What is wrong with yours? Stock ones will work just fine for that use.
Yes, you can get get everything in one place not only the parts you need at a very competitive price, but also the LC80 know how needed to ensure nothing will be missing, including new longer end caps for Longfields, @cruiseroutfit is my place again and again
The stock birfields are as strong as you’ll ever need if you’re not running on huge tires while rock crawling. A “stronger” birfield simply moves the failure point to some other place in your truck. In any event, the birfields are an easy job.
+1 on Cruiser Outfitters. Based on Kurt's recommendation, I did get the Nitro OEM replacements that he said are about 20% stronger. I did inner axles, new birfields and the rebuild kit with new bearings. I did have to order a new spindle after getting into it. I don't do any rock crawling but since I was going to pay for the labor, I basically had everything redone. My mechanic did say that everything was great from Cruiser Outfitters.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Have you already torn it down and inspected all these items?
- Thread starter
- #8
Not yet, but it’s 261k on the truck, and I’m hearing the tell tale birfield clicking.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks, this has all been great info!! That’s exactly what I was wondering about. Since this is my daily driver, I’d hate to ruin the diff with something too strong.
- Thread starter
- #10
1996 FZJ80
inkpot
SILVER Star
Have you stopped up the molly grease in the knuckles? Should be 2/3-3/4 full.
- Thread starter
- #12
Not yet, I’ve had the truck for two years, and it was a search and rescue vehicle before I got it, so I’m sure there’s a lot to do in the knuckles, which is why I think it could be good to do the whole job. They definitely look dry from the outside.
He's right.
@Kevin Reed Do this work yourself. That's the only way for you to earn our respect. You must dive in and prove your worth.
Then, we can no longer flame you as we're about to do....just because. Just wait until the rest of them get here.....then you'll know what I mean.
inkpot
SILVER Star
If really dry, pump a full tube into the service port with the square plug on top of the knuckle housing, and top off the gear oil in the differential. For < $10 you can find out what hether you REALLY need a knuckle service now or later.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
@Kevin Reed -
I’d slow your money roll & read up before going Longs. IMO you don’t need them & really you might try flopping the sides before going whole hog on new street birfs.
Read up on Joey’s / @NLXTACY ’s tool for using more of the mating surface for your inner shaft with OE seals. (If you’re new to driving seals, I’d just buy his)
If you’re bound & determined, then yeah - you can burn big $$$$ on Longs & new inner shafts, but why not see what a well researched guy can do with & use some of that saved $$$ for extra Joey crap you’ll **gotta have** when you see it.
The flipside to Longs is they wear out faster than street birfs, and most of us who are just still on 315’s (34.5”) are street birfs - you’ll strip a driveplate before a good/greased birf pops under most situations.
Up to you - I had to buy a f-ton of new parts when I ate a axle shell & shattered some diff components, I can say Cruiserdan’s dogs were well fed & he was deep in the Keystones.
And I just had **that much less** $$$ to burn on mods & random cool crap.
I’d slow your money roll & read up before going Longs. IMO you don’t need them & really you might try flopping the sides before going whole hog on new street birfs.
Read up on Joey’s / @NLXTACY ’s tool for using more of the mating surface for your inner shaft with OE seals. (If you’re new to driving seals, I’d just buy his)
If you’re bound & determined, then yeah - you can burn big $$$$ on Longs & new inner shafts, but why not see what a well researched guy can do with & use some of that saved $$$ for extra Joey crap you’ll **gotta have** when you see it.
The flipside to Longs is they wear out faster than street birfs, and most of us who are just still on 315’s (34.5”) are street birfs - you’ll strip a driveplate before a good/greased birf pops under most situations.
Up to you - I had to buy a f-ton of new parts when I ate a axle shell & shattered some diff components, I can say Cruiserdan’s dogs were well fed & he was deep in the Keystones.
And I just had **that much less** $$$ to burn on mods & random cool crap.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Unless Bobby comes back from the dead I’m never touching Trail Fail’s version of his work.
FWIW, I’ve got nearing 400k on 35s and have only ventured outside of OEM every once in awhile and I keep going back to OEM.
Do the work yourself, it’s a right of passage and the best way to understand your truck.
FWIW, I’ve got nearing 400k on 35s and have only ventured outside of OEM every once in awhile and I keep going back to OEM.
Do the work yourself, it’s a right of passage and the best way to understand your truck.
- Thread starter
- #18
I’ll definitely be doing the work myself. After reading a lot of these entries, I’m looking at Nitro’s more stock version. I don’t think the Chromoly version is for me since our 80 is a daily driver, and sometimes long voyages. The only reason I would get inner Axels also, is that this is our one vehicle at the moment, and I need to get everything possible in case I open it up and there is an unforeseen problem that needs to be replaced. I live in a small mountain town and parts are hard to come by. Thanks for all the info, this is definitely the place to get it.
- Thread starter
- #19
This is the setup I was landing on, looks to be the non-chromoly version.
RCV FJ80 / FZJ80 Ultimate CV Axle Set
Manufactured in the U.S. using only high-strength chromoly materials, RCV Performance Ultimate 30/24 spline CV Axle set simply replaces your […]
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