Need to remove a 71 tub in less than 3 hours (1 Viewer)

[joeyg1973]

So I am taking an autobody class and given the limited space, I found out tonight that I can't really keep my whole truck there. In order to save space the best bet I figure is to just take the tub off and take the frame away. This way I can just carry the whole tub off to the side when I am done with the class. There is no drive train in it and the wiring harness and break lines are going to be replaced. What I need to know is precisely what I need to do to get the body off the frame as quickly as possible, under 3 hours. I have never done this before so I am looking for the wisdom of Mud to help me put together a check list in the right order.

Ok so have at it fellas.

 

[Poser]

If the steering column is not out of the way, remove that, and then get after the body mount bolts.

 

[cruiserloser]

IF the body mounts are worth saving, then carefully remove. OEM mounts and bolts are very expensive. Aftermarket less so. If they are shot, or if you are going to replace, then saw the bolts and dig-out the tops later (you will see what I mean when you do this.)

Soak the front door bolts immediately with PB blaster or some other penetrant to ease removal. On the rear doors, soak the tub side bolts and remove those, avoid trying to remove the door side hinge screws/bolts. You do not want to snap these off (these are nutserts and dont like to be bored=-out and retapped) and you can spend more time on the bench once they are off. They are also easier to get to with penetrant on the tub side of things.

Heat and penetrant are your friends-broken bolt removal is hands-down the biggest heartbreak on restoring one of these....well maybe its the cost.

 

[D'Animal]

It is either 6 or 8 bolts/nuts to actually remove the tub.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

For the quickest take the front clip off in one piece (front grille support, fenders, aprons) then as mentioned above. I recommend removing the doors and the windshield support before lifting the tub since those three things are very heavy alone.

 

[joeyg1973]

OK some things I forgot to mention.

No Top. No side doors. I already got the whole front clip off. The thing that is going to be the biggest pain I believe is the steering box.

 

[Coolerman]

Remove the steering wheel and turn signal assembly from the column. Unplug the horn wire from the bottom of the column.

Unbolt the five bolts on the firewall that hold the rubber column seal.

Unbolt the steering box from the frame pedestal. It's four bolts.

Unbolt the two bolts that hold the column to the dash.

Slide the column out through the engine bay.

 

[Poser]

It is either 6 or 8 bolts/nuts to actually remove the tub.

There are twelve locations on the pre-1979 40 series with bolts that pass through the frame and secure into tub isolator/nut assemblies that need to be removed.

 

[ranger]

Might want to have a sawsall handy, I've never had a cruiser where the bolts along the back would come out without breakage.

 

[2fpower]

I had some I could not get a sawblade to under the seat area. I finally found using a torch to heat them up, then use an impact wrench to spin them off.

Helpful hint.... don't pick up the nuts for a while. You will discover that the torch made them hot!!! Stupid is as stupid does.

 

[splib]

Well? Did you get it off in three hours?

 

[joeyg1973]

Well? Did you get it off in three hours?

Won't know till I have class on Thursday.

 

[albee]

Take it off at home, and bring the tub to school on a trailer or in the back of a truck.
Good luck

 

[D'Animal]

It is either 6 or 8 bolts/nuts to actually remove the tub.

There are twelve locations on the pre-1979 40 series with bolts that pass through the frame and secure into tub isolator/nut assemblies that need to be removed.

Per side.