Need to borrow a good '96 to '97 ECM (1 Viewer)

[Green Hell Mustang]

The title is pretty self-explanatory. My truck is a '97, as far as I know the '96 engine control module is the same as the '97.

I've been trying to troubleshoot a persistent problem with my truck. I've narrowed it down to two things, one of those things is potentially a bad ECM... Or part of it at least. I'd like to plug in a good ECM if someone can loan me one, so I can check to see if I get the same signal loss issue.

Any and all help is... well, helpful!

Thanks in advance.

 

[White Sheep]

The title is pretty self-explanatory. My truck is a '97, as far as I know the '96 engine control module is the same as the '97.

I've been trying to troubleshoot a persistent problem with my truck. I've narrowed it down to two things, one of those things is potentially a bad ECM... Or part of it at least. I'd like to plug in a good ECM if someone can loan me one, so I can check to see if I get the same signal loss issue.

Any and all help is... well, helpful!

Thanks in advance.

Damn I just sold my spare a few weeks ago. If not not in a huge rush message @Deathvalleypaul, I know he has a few.

 

[Deathvalleypaul]

Please check the number on your ECM. They are not all the same even in the same year. To get the number, remove your glove box then stand on your head on the passenger side with a flashlight - I put my feet around the headrest and a pillow under my head. Sometimes a small mirror will help
Many places can simply test your ECM. I think AutoZone does. This is better than plugging inanother ECM and having whatever may have damaged yours damage the replacement ECM and leaving you not knowing what the real problem is. Always ground the ECM before connecting the battery. Screwing it back onto the firewall will ground it. After you have fixed your problem it is a good time to buy a spare. If you are stuck out of town, the wrecking yards and other used auto parts barons will want 800-900 dollars for one. I sell mine for $200-$250

 

[Green Hell Mustang]

Please check the number on your ECM. They are not all the same even in the same year. To get the number, remove your glove box then stand on your head on the passenger side with a flashlight - I put my feet around the headrest and a pillow under my head. Sometimes a small mirror will help
Many places can simply test your ECM. I think AutoZone does. This is better than plugging inanother ECM and having whatever may have damaged yours damage the replacement ECM and leaving you not knowing what the real problem is. Always ground the ECM before connecting the battery. Screwing it back onto the firewall will ground it. After you have fixed your problem it is a good time to buy a spare. If you are stuck out of town, the wrecking yards and other used auto parts barons will want 800-900 dollars for one. I sell mine for $200-$250

Below is a photo of my ECM. I pulled it to physically check it and the condition of the twelve (E6) and sixteen (E5) pin female connectors. I've been running into issues with the voltage signal from the O2 sensors. I'm getting an intermittent voltage signal from both O2 sensors when I wiggle the sixteen pin connector. The upstream O2, when I do get a voltage signal, gets about 0.035V, otherwise it will show up as zero volts. The downstream O2 gets the typical 0.5V to 0.9V range (honestly can't remember the exact numbers), however the signal drops to 0.035V to 0.050V when I jiggle the sixteen pin connector.

I took apart the E5 (sixteen pin) and E6 (twelve pin) connectors to replace them and check the condition of the female terminals. All the terminals looked spotless under a magnifying glass. There were no signs of corrosion, damage, or loose crimped connections. I went ahead and replaced the two connector housings (E5 and E6) as a precaution. I wanted to replace the E6 anyway, it had a hairline crack on the side of the connector housing.

Both O2 sensors are new, both have been tested for continuity and have passed. All the resistance numbers are within factory spec according to the FSM. The ECM has a good ground and all the body/chassis grounds are good.

I would like to get the ECM checked, I'll have to call around. You are right I do think it would be good to have a spare ECM anyway. I'll reach out in a PM to make that happen.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I also checked for any shorts in both O2 sensor connections, none were found.

 

[Deathvalleypaul]

You are certainly on the right track. Sometimes an ECM gets set off with a problem under certain circumstances that are intemittent. Do check your plug connections as well and look for cracks in wires close to ECM and be sure entire harness has not shifted where it can pick up heat. Another thing that can help is to run your engine when it is really dark at night and look under hood carefully to see if you see any electrical sparks.

 

[jamesurq]

Just bypass it, I have a guy that'll do it in 2 weeks.

 

[lt1fire]

Just bypass it, I have a guy that'll do it in 2 weeks.

Still surprised you never got a 2 Weeks license plate for your 80.

 

[jamesurq]

When it's done, I'll get one to commemorate the real timeframe....

2YEARS maybe....