crushers
post ho
good info, thanks
Need Stronger Brakes
- Thread starter Glenn-BJ74
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
with the 75x of myne
i put a dual diapharam brake booster from a 80x up front, had to shorten the connecting rod from the pedal to the booster under dash
i also use bendex DB1170 brake pads up front (think they are off a nissan 300zx sports car) they go straight in, they pull up extremelly hard, disadvantage is they do not last long and they are hard on the disc, make a mess with brake dust as well
i have lenghtned the lpv rod at the rear and use a quality bendix 4x4 rear pad, for a 3T truck it pulls up pretty good, before the above mods it just would not stop
i put a dual diapharam brake booster from a 80x up front, had to shorten the connecting rod from the pedal to the booster under dash
i also use bendex DB1170 brake pads up front (think they are off a nissan 300zx sports car) they go straight in, they pull up extremelly hard, disadvantage is they do not last long and they are hard on the disc, make a mess with brake dust as well
i have lenghtned the lpv rod at the rear and use a quality bendix 4x4 rear pad, for a 3T truck it pulls up pretty good, before the above mods it just would not stop
- Thread starter
- #24
Prior to going to Cruise Moab 2011, which involves 4,000 km of US Interstate freeway driving, I installed DBA 4X4 Survival rotors (slotted) and PBR ceramic pads. Although the pads work best when warm, this set up stops the truck from high speed very well now. Before the change over, slowing down from speed was always a chore and on long descents the brakes would fade (not on the freeway, but on steep logging roads in BC where I wheel).
- Thread starter
- #25
Oh yeah- I replaced all the flexible lines with new ones (cuts down flex under pressure). I looked into caliper and master cylinder swaps and talked to a guy that did all that and he could not say it helped that much. Rather I went with high quality replacement parts for the OEM set-up and it seems to have worked. Also this has fewer problems in the long run finding replacement parts for non-stock parts.
Read thru this thread and have weak brakes in my BJ70 also.
Have been considering buying replacement SS brake for the flexible lines ... until I saw this note. So why not use SS? Is the problem cost, or are there some serious performance related disadvantages to SS lines?
crushers
post ho
it isnt the cost, SS is cheap.
but i have seen too many ripped off in the bush, the SS doesn't stretch like the rubber does. to me, SS is bling only.
side note:
completely factory disc front drum rear PZJ70 with 35s, works extremely well.
completely factory disc front disc rear LJ78, works acceptable.
unless you are going extreme in tire size or are adding huge weight to the vehicle i do not recommend changing to disc rear, huge money, hard to find and the improvement is not worth the expense.
but i have seen too many ripped off in the bush, the SS doesn't stretch like the rubber does. to me, SS is bling only.
side note:
completely factory disc front drum rear PZJ70 with 35s, works extremely well.
completely factory disc front disc rear LJ78, works acceptable.
unless you are going extreme in tire size or are adding huge weight to the vehicle i do not recommend changing to disc rear, huge money, hard to find and the improvement is not worth the expense.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I'm using a 80 series MC in Tencha .. ( discs in all corners .. and SW13 calipers in front ) that was pretty good setup when I was with 37" now I'm thinking I'm going to move to hydro boost to stop the 40"
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
yes .. actually I made a new rod for the 80 MC .. starting from a longer bolt was easy job for a local machine shop .. working quite good so far.
