Need opinions on potential purchase

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Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
1
Location
Pleasant Grove, UT
Hi guys

First I want to thank anyone that takes the time to respond. You time is valuable and I appreciate you taking some of it to give me your thoughts.

First some background:
I currently have a Ford f250 7.3 pSD with 247k that is pretty reliable but keeps needing little things that add up to a lot of $ because diesel parts arent cheap. Im sick of putting money into a truck I cant even fit my family in so it just sits in my garage. I hate it and dont need such a big truck.

Ive always been a huge Toyota guy. Had a sweet lifter 4runner until gas got too expensive for my commute and then got a Prius which is my DD and has 162k on it. I love the thing.
Ive also always loved LC's but could never really afford one but since they are now getting more affordable and the family is growing it finally is making some sense.

There is a dealership here in Utah that has a 2000 LC with 297k for $6,700 on it but is one owner and was purchased and serviced at the same dealer its being sold at since new. Its in awesome shape inside and out and it has all the service records you could ever need. Im sure it was owned by another "Toyota Guy".

If the trade works out and I dont have to go too much out of pocket I think Im going to pull the trigger.
Would you guys do it? Im hoping for 4-5k on my trade and only be out $2k tops out of pocket.

Need some recommendations.

Thanks again.

Used 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser in Riverdale UT | Stock: 951193A
 
Impressive you got 247k on the ford. Even so I'd trade for the LC in a heart beat. The 2000 -2003 is one of the most trouble free of the 100 series IMHO. That said parts and rubber get old in any vehicle.
 
It looks like its in good shape and priced pretty fairly. You said it has ever service record, make sure that includes a new timing belt at about 210k miles or more. If not, you'll have to go out of pocket right away for the service and its expensive ($700-$1300) from what I've found.

I would try too get a 2003+ for the 5-speed, but if that's all you can get into your budget, I would go for it.
 
Wow, who'd have thought you'd be trading in your 247k mile vehicle for something with closer to 300k miles. But this is a Land Cruiser we're talking about, so it makes sense with context. Go for it. You won't be disappointed.
 
I'd trade every day for the LC. I traded a Chevy with 80k for an LC with 130k. I'd do it again, but family thought it was crazy. But this was the guy in front of me at the dealership today.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453340494.962588.webp


As others mentioned, just make sure the baseline maintenance has been done, otherwise you'd be making another 2k investment. Also check the records on the ABS, accumulator and master cylinder. That's one area that has been an issue and can be costly. (Was on my '99)
 
That interior is in better shape then mine and I have half the miles. Drivers seat leather is in good shape too. I would check for exhaust manifold leaks and if the brake system master cylinder accumulator was replaced along with timing belt water pump. If its at Toyota dealer that says a lot. They must be have confidence in it.
 
That one looks like it has had a pretty soft life and has not been messed with (even has a stock radio) but even so there are a few things that can rack up a large bill:

- Check the upper and lower ball joints (these can be checked by listening for a rattle when going over a speed bump, or jacking the car up and looking for play). Have a look at the ball joint boots, if they are torn the joints will be on their way out it the future.

- Check the upper and lower control arm bushings (as per the above).

- While you are there check the tie rod ends, they are cheap and easy to replace but will give you an idea as to how loose the front end is.

- Check the condition of the steering rack. (in a parking lot lock up the wheel and drive off, straighten out then when driving straight at low speed lock it up again. Any kind of “bump – back” through the steering wheel is a sign the rack is unhappy and they are expensive.

- Similarly front wheel bearings and front shocks should be checked, the 4.7L is a heavy bugger.

- Weirdly the rear brakes on cruisers tend to wear faster than the front so have a good look at them.

- I cant think in miles but double check when the last timing belt and water pump where done, they are periodic items and are expensive when they come around.

- I’ve had an alternator go out on both my cruisers so just make sure you are getting good volts from it.

- The sun roofs can also go wrong (stuck or broken guide cables) so give it a test.

- I think the Pre 2003 cruisers had dipsticks for the trans fluid, obviously dip it for colour and smell. (If that cruiser has the USA tow package it will have a trany cooler up front and you don’t really need to worry).

- Rust likes to hide in the bottom of the doors if the drain holes plug up with gunk so have a little look there. It will also sometimes hide around the rear hatch top break light.



IMPORTANT:

- The lower drivers side fog lamp is very foggy in the pics and the other side is nice and shiny…. Now if the dealer was going to polish one he would have polished the other, and if he was going to change one why not the other? If it’s a sun issue you would expect to see some fade on the headlights. So that throws up an alarm bell. Check the records on this, maybe he put in new headlights, or polished them up (they look very very clean), maybe one fog was cracked so it was replaced… whatever, but just make sure the cruiser didn’t have a little nose bump on the right hand side resulting in only 1 new fog lamp. (check the plastic mounting points of components behind the nose (fuse box, water bottle, grill tabs) these often break in nose bumps but are too expensive to repair so get left un checked.



Otherwise looks like a pretty girl, good luck :)
 
- Check the condition of the steering rack. (in a parking lot lock up the wheel and drive off, straighten out then when driving straight at low speed lock it up again. Any kind of “bump – back” through the steering wheel is a sign the rack is unhappy and they are expensive.
Hey Gunney "Lock up" By this do you mean turn all they way to one side?
 
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