Need help with electrical problem

[sailingcruiser]

I replaced my start battery a few days ago. Immediately after that it triggered a aftermarket alarm. That was installed at some point. Unable to reset the alarm our find any info on it. I went about making plans to replace it. In the morning I went to start the cruiser. The battery was dead. And the IBS system seems to not be working.

Symptoms

Ran great before sitting over night with alarm running.

Low voltage on gauge cluster not running

14v on scan gauge and gauges when running.

Can be jump started

Any thoughts would be great

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Do you have a key fob or anything for the aftermarket alarm?

Had that happen on a customer's truck a few years ago. Spent a few hours cutting it out of the truck, ended up replacing the ignition switch because it's harness was cut up so bad. No issues after that.

 

[sailingcruiser]

No key fob no way to reset alarm it's being replaced today. Wiring is in good shape. Both battery's are fine. IBS system is not happy and the alternator is showing 14v while running.

No voltage our low voltage on gauges and IBS monitor when not running. I'm guessing the alarm defaulted something after running for 24hrs

 

[Trollhole]

Pull the panel under the steering wheel. Look for the harness coming off the ignition switch (big bundle) follow it till it hits a connector should be female white with foam on it. Follow that till it hits another connector that looks just like the first one but male and probably doesn't have foam. If all this is under the dash then it's a dealer installed alarm. The harness from the first connector to the second can be removed and the original factory connectors plugged back in. This will defeat the alarm. Also anything attached to the sub harness needs to be removed. It's possible there are sub harnesses in some other connectors attached to it. Some alarms are under the dash some later ones were under the drivers seat. Good luck.

 

[Trollhole]

Also if you can find the wire or original red light you can usually push the red light as some lights were the defeat switch. If the button is broken. Strip the wires back and touch them together while turning ignition.

 

[sailingcruiser]

So here is the problem and it's a wired one. Cruiser ran great no problems until battery was replaced and it sat over night with alarm running drained the start battery. Jumped the cruiser drive it to the shop for new alarm. Ignition bypass for alarm has been removed. Everything as it should be I'm told. Both battery's charged now no start. Maybe it had a fuseable link blow? Is there something I'm missing?

 

[dbenke]

Sounds like either a fuseable link or a bad ignition switch.
Is it turning over and not starting, or not doing anything?

 

[sailingcruiser]

It sounds like it wants to start click from starter. Dead battery symptoms. But no start unless jumped. Alternator shows it's charging. Battery's seem not to respond. Old alarm is out now. I will have boots on the ground tomorrow with my multi meter so hope fully this is not to much off a head ach.

 

[dbenke]

The last time I diagnosed one like this (2 weeks ago), I had 2 problems, a broken/ corroded battery terminal end, and a bad starter

 

[sailingcruiser]

Thanks for the advice I will double check everything. New terminals new battery's. Toyota starter two years old. New alternator Toyota. Dual battery and IBS controller. All working perfectly two days ago. When power was tripped by replacing battery which was six years old. The Hawk alarm system. Got its feathers ruffled. I will just work system by system until I find the problem. I.e. Ignition wireing is intact. Battery voltage correct check all fuse, fuseable links. Check starter relays etc. my guess is that the alarm which was flashing my interior lights and blinkers. Has messed something up. That may not be related to the alarm. Any thoughts are more than welcome. I'm looking forward to meeting the LCLC group