Need help with 13B-T

[danhr]

Re:Tapage

Tapage:
When you press the gas .. you have black smoke ( no boost ) increasing boost you get less smoke no .?

Yeah, thats right. Soon as I see the boot guage goto 1PSI, no somke then.

The problem is, even when the waste gate pipe is removed PSI goes to 14 which is good indeed. But very little performance gain is seen. Infact I would term no performance gain at all.

I have also put three washers between the waste gate and support. Without washer I get 4-5 psi, with washers I get 5-7 psi. No performance gain is seen.

 

[Tapage]

Interesting ..

Black smoke when you push the gast means more diesel that your engine can burn ( course no air to burn that amount of diesel ) when you are geting boost .. you are star t using your diesel ( boost = more airn in the combustion chamber ) sno no more black smoke ..

The interesting part it's the one when you said more boost ok .. no black smoke ok ( It let me think you have wnought diesel ) and no more performance . ?

You are running huge tires . ?

Your clutch is in good shape .?

 

[cody c]

if your seeing boost increase on the gauge when you modify the wastegate, then i think the turbo and wastegate are working properly, but if it is not affecting the performance than the air must not be getting to the engine properly. maybe something plugged in your air intake. Or maybe something else, i dont know if HAC could affect or cause this. But if your turbo does spool up and show boost pressure, it makes me think the problem is else where.

 

[redstang410]

Seems like the boost compensator isn't working properly.
The boost compensator should increase fuel when boost is detected. While cutting back fuel at no boost conditions.
If your engine smokes heavily up until boost builds up, then your probably overfueling. If the boost compensator were working properly, you should feel a dramatic increase in performance as more boost builds.

You should really install a pyrometer. It would help you determine if you are overfueling vs boost your engine builds.
If youre making 14 psi, but your pyrometer readings are way low, Like 800 F, Then the compensator isn't working or your fuel is turned down too low. You should take these readings at highway speeds so there is a proper load against the engine. at least 100 kph or more.
If at any moment your egt readings exceed 1250 F under heavy boost, then your exceeding the thermal capacity of your engine and shouldn't try to tune for more power, but install and intercooler or free up your exhaust to lower these temps. Or simply take your foot out of the skinny pedal. Otherwise you'll end up with a melted engine. By the way, they always run the hardest right before they melt...

Hope this helps

 

[danhr]

Tapage:

The tires are the same i.e. I used to get good performance with existing tires.

Clutch is in good shape as well. I replaced the clutch and pressure plate on this sunday. I used original toyota parts.

cody c:

I have checked the intake pipes, everything is clean. I do not think there is a leak as well.


redstang410:

Even when the boost comes up I do not feel performance gain.

I remember when green light used to come up (at 10PSI), I could feel a jerk and a sudden power. The silencer made a loud powerful sound. Now even when at 14 psi, no gain is observed and no loud muffler sound. I just hear the engine.

Also, I used to touch 140 and even 160km/h on highway. Now it does not exceed 110 km/h no matter what I do.

I will buy pyrometer today. Any good make in mind?

 

[Tapage]

I like the ISSpro or VDO gauges .. but you choose.

Make a test .. cheap and continue with your plant to buy a Pyro. Turno up your fuel .. 1/4 turn and make a test ride .. if you feel increase in the performace Redstang make the best bet .. and you aren't having anought fuel at hight rpm/boost to use all air ( O ) that you have in your intake ..

 

[danhr]

I like the ISSpro or VDO gauges .. but you choose.

Make a test .. cheap and continue with your plant to buy a Pyro. Turno up your fuel .. 1/4 turn and make a test ride .. if you feel increase in the performace Redstang make the best bet .. and you aren't having anought fuel at hight rpm/boost to use all air ( O ) that you have in your intake ..

Please provide the exact model. Or better, provide me the link.

To increase fuel, what should be done? i.e. how can I increase the fuel?



rutbeer:

You are right about the relay, it is for engine shutdown. Please help me figure out the piping. I have attached a diagram of current config.
I am having trouble while driving as sometimes VSV gets activated half way. Throttle stops responding. I then remove the VSV pipe and eveything return to normal.

 

[Tapage]

Please provide the exact model. Or better, provide me the link.

Search in summit for Pyro options .. or

http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r3607tr_ev_pyro.asp

 

[redstang410]

I use this one
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...905482+4294891600+4294908432+115&autoview=sku

But there are many to choose from. Just make sure it includes the sender unit, otherwise you'll be spending more money for shipping.

Try checking the boost compensator. Make sure there is a boost signal reaching it. You could even blow air into the line to see if the diaphram is working or not. It seems as this would be the primary cause of your lack of power.

Good luck

 

[rutbeer]

I have to test this out on mine as well. I replaced mine with a generic out of a corolla that was 12v. As I understand it, there is basically flow through the switching valve all the time in it's open connection. When the power is cut, the valve moves and allows air to channel a different path....one in which air will go to the diaprahm on the air intake.

On all other toyota cars I have looked at, there is a vent to atmosphere. On the 13bt, the vent is actually connected to a pipe that wraps around the back of the engine and goes back to the vacuum pump. I'm not sure what the purpose of the vent to atmosphere is....but I understand why you would want to "seal" the system like the way the 13bt is run. I have to look back at my pictures to

So when you say "all time suction", it is under vacuum regardless of electrical current to the switch?

 

[rutbeer]

vac diagram

Try this

 

[danhr]

redstang410:

Boost signal (air pipe from turbo) is reaching it without any restriction.

If I blow air into it, is there any physical movement that I would see (via compressed air pump)? What should I feel if I blow air via mouth (ristricted like a baloon? or smimilar to waste gate actuator?)



rutbeer:

By all time suction I mean when engine is started, one can feel the suction from nozzel #1 which has no connection.

There is a steel pipe (nozzel) near this relay with no connection as well. Maybe something from relay goes there?

I am having trouble as sometimes the VSV gets activated half way (Boost guage shows 20 vaccum). If I throttle, vaccum goes even further and engine makes black smoke. If I remove the VSV pipe or turn off and again start the motor then everything returns to normal.

I am assuming wrong pipe config.

 

[rutbeer]

Yes, all three ports should be connected. The one that points toward the steel pipe at the back of the block, should be connected together. The other two ports point upwards towards the intake manifold. One of them runs straight to the shutter pot and the other runs into the vacuum network if I remember right. Sounds like maybe you have something connected to the boost compensator incorrectly.

Port 1 goes to shutter pot
Port 2 goes to crossover pipe
Port 3 goes to boost compensator at port 4
Port 5 goes to network or shutter.....need to look
Port 6 goes to network or shutter....need to look
Port 7 goes to metal pipe at back of engine port 8

 

[danhr]

rutbeer:

See pic 1 RELAY.jpg . This is the current config.

When the suction pipe from Alternator is connected to Port C and engine is running, Port A is also in suction.

If I swap the piping (A and C) same result. i.e. A and C are linked.

Port B is activated when I turn off the motor.


(Currently) Pipe from the boost compensator goes to the turbo pipe. i.e. pipe goes from below the turbo pipe joint, above the intake mainfold to boost compensator.


-------------------------

Pic 2 Non mod.jpg is the cap found behind the alternator (non modified). In on of my posts I said I had problem with clutch being hard. Notice the tiny hole. I increased this hole size and !

Pic 3 mod installed.jpg is the one I increased the hole size. Clutch is smooth to operate as it should be.

-------------------------------

redstang410:

If I blow air to compensator via mouth, it feels like a dead end, like its blocked. Nothing happens. Blowing through air compressor at 1bar, nothing happens.

 

[rutbeer]

That valve looks different than either of mine. It's possible your entire system has been reworked, in which case, it will be very hard to help.
In my situation, the "metal pipe" is connected to alt (suction) which goes to port B on your diagram. And the port A is connected to the stop shutter. B will be a loop that feeds over to the A/c kick up valve, etc. It's possible that A and B will be reversed in yours, and the only way to tell is to test it with 12v on and off to see which ports are active in the new configuration.
You are sort of accomplishing the same thing though....you just need to pipe in the blank port A into the overall vacuum loop for the rest of the accessories (or cap it off). In fact, your configuration more closely matches that which is in the manual.

 

[redstang410]

The line to the boost compensator should be a dead end. In other words, you can blow air into it, but not through it. It should use the air pressure to move a diaphragm which should enrich your fuel under boost.

If air doesnt flow through, then we've checked that the diaphragm is not broken, But it doesn't tell us if its stuck.
I really don't know how to check a working boost compensator as my engine doesn't use one. But i figure it might be possible to check it with the engine running at idle and sending pressure to the line. You should hear and feel a change in engine rpm or sound. It should rev up or smoke black.
I'm guessing this might work, but you should consult someone else before trying and possibly messing something up though.

hope this helps.

 

[danhr]

rutbeer:

Changing the current config results in either motor not to start or not to shutdown.

If I swap Port B and C, engine will not shutdown.
If I connect pipe from alternator to Port A while VSV connected to port B, engine will not shutdown.

I will remove the relay and then test it.

Tell me, the metal pipe at the back, what is it connected to? If I connect it to port A, then engine will not start. If I supply it air from turbo then engine makes smoke and does 'missing'. It works fine when not connected.


redstang410:

Well, I started the motor and supplied 1bar (14PSI) to the boost compensator. Nothing happens, no change in engine sound nor any smoke is produced.

Maybe there is some setting in boost compensator to make it work ?

 

[rutbeer]

Have you downloaded the manual for this engine yet?
It's available on birfield.com
There is a fair amount of info on the boost compensator in there....

 

[Tapage]

Maybe there is some setting in boost compensator to make it work ?

maybe the boost compensator is stuck ..

 

[danhr]

FU-96 FUEL SYSTEM -Injection Pump

Says about adjustment of boost compensator. Now in what direction to turn the guide bushing?

More advanced level is FU-55. Says how to check the boost compensator. But for it, I have to remove the whole pump and boost compensator. It says to apply pressure to boost compensator and see the rod movement. Not within range, replace.

This I cannot do myself. And again, comes to Fuel Pump after all this. If I am going to mess with fuel pump, I would change plungers and nozzels as well. Further more if it is the boost compensator, I would have to replace the whole pump as getting a single unit would be impossible.