Need help, tires still rubbing frame?

[FJC11]

I am running 295/70/17 nitto terra grapplers on aftermarket wheels, aggressive body mount chop, OME 3 inch lift (heavies up front and med in the rear) and 1.25 spider trax wheel spacers. I have rubbing on the frame in the rear of the front wheel well when backing and aggressive turns. I have also removed my fender flares. Any suggestions on what I can do? I know ppl that have similiar set up with zero issues. Thanks in advance.

 

[inkpot]

If you are running way less than stock offset on the rims, then it will rub. Stock is about 4.25", I think.

 

[Mtbcoach]

X 2 ^^ some say 4.5", depends on the "stock" wheel (some TRD wheels issued were different than the stock steelies and alloys)

The FJC front suspension is not compliant to wheel/tire combos that go outside stock backspacing...

 

[FJC11]

Thanks for the info. The wheels do have a negative offset so that is probably the issue. I still have the TRD wheels, just hate having to try and sell the new wheels and tires already.

 

[Delancy]

Cut the body mount. Problem solved.






My first, so not a fair entry. Since have favored an angled cut, still leaving more of the body mount intact, primarily so it can do the job it was engineered for, in the event of this.






Google "BMC FJ Cruiser". It will result a plethora of threads to peruse.

I don't buy into a creative alignment correcting, either. It'll either track squirrelly, or still run stuffed.

 

[FJC11]

I have the bmc done already. The rubbing is on the inner wheel well.

 

[Layonnn]

Its on the wheel well or its on the frame rails?

If you are rubbing on the wheel wells you can lower your bump stops.

If you are rubbing on the frame rails when turning, adjust your turn stops.

 

[Delancy]

There's a body seam that's prone to rubbing, but would think it'd rub on the inner fender plastics, first.

I folded the body seam a bit, but already cut the lower inner fender liner to expose, yet I still rub on the metal inner fender when stuffed and locked. Just haven't massaged with a BFH, yet.

 

[BMThiker]

I have massaged mine with a 3 pounder pretty good on both sides. Flattened out the body weld seam so that it lies flat instead of sticking out. You'll need to be careful with the driver side, so that you don't dislodge the dead foot pedal. Then resprayed wheel well liner stuff from a rattle can. Both of my plastic fenders are removed, as well as the mud flaps, so I've got a bit more room to work with than someone still sporting the stock plastic.

 

[FJC11]

Thanks for the info. I have removed the mud flaps and fender flares. I was thinking of maybe going for a 1 inch body lift. It doesn't hit at full lock. It rubs that seem.

 

[Layonnn]

Thanks for the info. I have removed the mud flaps and fender flares. I was thinking of maybe going for a 1 inch body lift. It doesn't hit at full lock. It rubs that seem.

Pound it flat, like this, but use a hammer instead of your head

 

[BMThiker]

This is what mine looked like before removing all the plastic inside the front wheel wells. I eventually removed that inner section that is held in place with plastic rivets and a few screws. Then with the wheel removed, pounded against the well area (floorboard) that showed signs of rubbing (rubber material worn off, exposing bare sheet metal).

However, I really need to consider installing extended bump stops. On a particularly festive run around the dirt track at GSMTR a couple years ago, the tires rubbed the top of the wheel well.

 

[Delancy]

^^.LC wheels on an FJC?

 

[BMThiker]

They're special

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/396752-fj80-lx450-wheel-fitment-fjc.html#post5698686

post #6

 

[Delancy]

They're special

Sure are.

When I first read the post, I was hoping you'd found an aftermarket with 3.5"-4" BS that was a perfect match to OE, because I looked for and never found.

Interesting, nonetheless.

Thanks for posting the link.