Need help fitting a TRD PRO wheel with 265/70R17 Wildpeaks in spare location

[K Dub]

In this case it's not the twisting motion that matters, though (as in articulation). If you hit a bump dead on and force the suspension to cycle, we need think about where the pivot points are and where anything outside of those pivot points will arc. The center of that pivot line is at the KDSS bushings, meaning the bit that sticks out will rotate and want to return to center, where the tire lives. It's obviously a small amount (I ran a 265/70/17 in there for a while, and only experienced the wear you did) but I won't say it didn't contact and does not contact more than it did. Here's a s***ty paint drawing:

View attachment 3796933

I think it's fine, but it's something to think about.

You're right, of course, and this is different than standard sway bars that are a simpler U shape. But I still feel like the center point of the twist stays fairly static. While one side arcs upward, the other arcs down, leaving the center point between the two brackets pretty much in place. When both sides cycle together (like when landing a jump), the whole arm will travel in that arc that you drew, but when articulating the twist we're both describing centers at the contact point of my tire. I've only ever jacked my truck up from the axle, so I don't know what the geometry looks like at full droop or on the bump stops, but I just try not to go airborne too often.

FYI, I'm running a 265/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler under my rig on a factory FJ Cruiser wheel. I have a 10k mile Wildpeak that I'll hopefully be putting under there once I get a new set for all four corners. It didn't fit at full diameter when new, but now that it's worn down some I think I can jam it in there.

 

[Cold Iron]

You're right, of course, and this is different than standard sway bars that are a simpler U shape. But I still feel like the center point of the twist stays fairly static. While one side arcs upward, the other arcs down, leaving the center point between the two brackets pretty much in place. When both sides cycle together (like when landing a jump), the whole arm will travel in that arc that you drew, but when articulating the twist we're both describing centers at the contact point of my tire. I've only ever jacked my truck up from the axle, so I don't know what the geometry looks like at full droop or on the bump stops, but I just try not to go airborne too often.

FYI, I'm running a 265/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler under my rig on a factory FJ Cruiser wheel. I have a 10k mile Wildpeak that I'll hopefully be putting under there once I get a new set for all four corners. It didn't fit at full diameter when new, but now that it's worn down some I think I can jam it in there.

I'm running AT3W Wildpeaks on TRD Pro wheels and to get the spare to fit I have to line up a tire groove to slide into the inner tab on the OEM trailer hitch. It does make contact on the KDSS a little bit, just a little. That was a new tire with no wear but no problems that I can tell either. Couple of months ago got a flat and had to use the spare. Went to the only garage available to me 60 miles from the cabin and he luckily had a Goodyear something or another in the same size that he mounted for me. It is just a little larger and was a struggle getting it in the spare location and it makes a bit more contact, again no issues. That I am aware of. Drove another week off road with it and then quite a few highway miles. But finally found another new AT3W that I will replace it with in another week or so.

@Rednexus you asked me to tell you how Falken handles the sidewall rip on the tire that went flat and slipped through the recall. I feel they did as well as they could. When I called first thing she said was sidewalls are not covered under warranty. Come to find out that is common with most tire makers. I told her that the tire TIN was on the list of recalls. She said that in addition to the TIN there is a mold number right after the TIN and she needed the mold number to see if it matches. The last I seen of the tire it was at a small shop on the Canadian border sitting next to a pile of moose antler sheds on the floor. I called the shop to see if they still had it to give me the TIN and mold number but of course they had disposed of it already.

I did take a picture of it after I dropped it

And from that was able to pull the TIN but not the mold number. I am the technical specialist at work for imaging systems, medical and documents, so have access to quite a few image processing tools. For clarity purposes you don't want to manipulate medical images for obvious reasons. Tried every trick in the book but couldn't get the last 2 characters of the mold number.

I called Fallken back and told the guy what I could read. He said that it lined up but couldn't send me a replacement without positive proof then asked if it was the inside or outside sidewall. Inside. He said that matched from the faulty mold and asked me to hang on and he would see what he could do. 5 minutes later he came back and said sorry but the bean counters wanted proof so they could not send me a replacement.

I ended up buying the last new AT3W 265/70R17 I could find on ebay of all places it was from Simple Tire in Texas $220 with free shipping but I was glad to finally find one. Still I'd give Falken a positive for customer support. When these AT3W wear out not sure which way I will go the AT4W aren't getting great reviews on snow and ice. They made them last longer and anytime someone makes a tire with longer life they make them with harder compound which usually means they don't do so well in snow. One reason I bought another AT3W replacement to put in rotation, to make what I have last longer. The AT3W really works well during the period outside of the 6 weeks of piss poor sledding around here. And pretty darn well during that 6 weeks of summer too.