Need help bad, NGK plugs burnt up after 20 miles (1 Viewer)

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May 1, 2012
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Location
Portland Oregon
What in the hell would make these foul after 20 miles ??? More important, what would cause that huge gash on the number 3 plug ground electrode .... there is no way the ground electrode got smashed flat from me screwing it in . Number 3 looks like it never got spark because it's the only one without any carbon burn on it. They all had a burning ozone smell when I pulled them out of the hot engine block.

The old NKG plugs were completely brown on the spark tip but my engine was still running pretty good. I had to gap the new ones down pretty far to hit .31 !! The bolt size was also different 20mm for the old & 16 mm for the new ones (NGK V Power)

Any Ideas ??
IMAG0298.jpg
 
Those look like the wrong plugs...

Just get the proper DENSO and see what happens.

Denso W14EXR-U or Denso W14EX-U

The NGK equivalent is BPR5ES-11
 
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i'm getting on the wrong plug wagon. the fact that either the piston or one of the valves has struck one electrode should be a red flag.
i ran those for a while, and that ltz number on the plug does not ring a bell.
 
Those look like the extra long ones used on some of the 2uz-fe v8 engines. did you compare the thread distance with the old ones???
 
BPR4EY is listed as the part number for the 2F and for sure I have used that NGK model in my 1985 60 with no problems.

If its a 62 then there are more options listed on the NGK site but none of them are what you show in the photo

NGK Spark Plugs
 
I just got off the phone with the parts store that "special ordered" them for me and reamed their a$$es for selling me the wrong plugs. I should have checked them closer , but I screwed then in at the parts store parking lot on my way to the DEQ before they closed. It's probably a miracle that I passed the emissions inspection.
Now I have to drain out my fresh oil and strain it to look for that chunk of metal off of plug 3... Maybe one day I will get to drive my rig !

Thanks for the replies
 
BPR4EY is listed as the part number for the 2F and for sure I have used that NGK model in my 1985 60 with no problems.

If its a 62 then there are more options listed on the NGK site but none of them are what you show in the photo

NGK Spark Plugs

Correct on the BPR4EY... But, from what I can research he has purchased an extended projection plug. The gouge in #3 is probably due to the spark plug being slapped by the piston because of the excessive length.. :meh:

J
 
I just got off the phone with the parts store that "special ordered" them for me and reamed their a$$es for selling me the wrong plugs. I should have checked them closer , but I screwed then in at the parts store parking lot on my way to the DEQ before they closed. It's probably a miracle that I passed the emissions inspection.
Now I have to drain out my fresh oil and strain it to look for that chunk of metal off of plug 3... Maybe one day I will get to drive my rig !

Thanks for the replies

My guess is that the piece of metal is sitting on top of your piston.... I'd run a small flexible magnet in the spark plug hole and hope to fish it out.

J
 
Where would the best place be to check the top of the piston ? Side inspection plate or valve cover. I've never removed either one !
 
Where would the best place be to check the top of the piston ? Side inspection plate or valve cover. I've never removed either one !


Are you sure the metal was broke off when you pulled the plug? Looks like it's indented but not missing. (From above pic)

If so, i would try the magnet first.

J
 
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Bring piston to top dead and borrow your wifes vacuum attachments to get in there and suck any possible debris that is in there.
 
I doubt that it is still in there. I bet it already went out the exhaust. But if you pull the spark plug and and spin the engine until you see the top of the piston go in with a small magnetic pick up, small vac attachment or shop air to try and get it out. It wont make it in to the oil and you cant see the piston by removing the valve cover or side cover.
 
Where would the best place be to check the top of the piston ? Side inspection plate or valve cover. I've never removed either one !

Spark plug hole and magnet.

The piston is surrounded by the block (cylinder walls), you would need to pull the head to actually look at the top of the piston, which isn't needed. It seems to me also that it just indented the plug. Not a biggy, just get the right ones this time.
 

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