yikes!
bottom end bearings are my guess.
bottom end bearings are my guess.
Need advise on 1HDT tick/knock and recomendation on Calgary / southern AB diesel shop
- Thread starter Malahki
- Start date
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Holy, it's clacking for sure... I'm no expert but that doesn't sound too good. A light tick at random but defiantly not that.
What color is the FIPG around the oil Pan?
What color is the FIPG around the oil Pan?
- Thread starter
- #23
Are you thinking connecting rod bearings (BEB's) or mains?
Orange if I remember correctly but I am not near the truck at the moment though to double check
bottom end bearings aka con rod bearings.
Mains usually don't have issues in these engines.
worth ripping into. Any idea how many kms ago they were "done" ?
Orange is definitely not stock.
Hopefully its not too bad. I hear they run still with a fuct bearing.
Mains usually don't have issues in these engines.
worth ripping into. Any idea how many kms ago they were "done" ?
Orange is definitely not stock.
Hopefully its not too bad. I hear they run still with a fuct bearing.
crushers
post ho
my guess is either BEB, heard that before
or a bad injector.
crack each injector, one at a time and see if the noise goes away.
or a bad injector.
crack each injector, one at a time and see if the noise goes away.
- Thread starter
- #26
Awesome guys thanks for the input. I actually have it at a pretty reputable shop here in Lethbridge right now getting some exhaust work done. They are not a diesel shop though so I hesitate to get them to do the BEB's and mess with the injectors.....
My big fear right now is that a bad bearing has done damage to the crank. Hate for the local guys get it apart and not be able to put it back together without a complete tare down. Might be worth hauling it to one of the diesel shops in Calgary??
My big fear right now is that a bad bearing has done damage to the crank. Hate for the local guys get it apart and not be able to put it back together without a complete tare down. Might be worth hauling it to one of the diesel shops in Calgary??
Looking at your other builds you could easily do your bottom end bearings yourself. Pretty easy really. You just need a good torque wrench.
As for your injectors, I would rule then out if your bottom end bearings turned out ok.
One step at a time
As for your injectors, I would rule then out if your bottom end bearings turned out ok.
One step at a time
Could it be out of time? Maybe too far advanced? I moved my timing too far advanced on my Isuzu 4BD2 and it made a similar sound at low RPM, but ran well.
On the flip side, I saw a 4BD2 with a bad wrist pin make a sound like that too...
Hope for the best
Doug
On the flip side, I saw a 4BD2 with a bad wrist pin make a sound like that too...
Hope for the best
Doug
FYI: Proactive charges $1200 for BEB's. It's a 1 day job - your call......
Edit: Checking compression might be wise, before the BEB's. Been there.
Edit: Checking compression might be wise, before the BEB's. Been there.
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crushers
post ho
i highly doubt checking the compression will solve anything. worn wristpin, bearing heading south won't have an effect on compression ... till completely gone.
dropping the oil pan is the worst part of doing the BEB swap. dirty and a PITA to get loose.
but, you can pull the caps, one at a time, inspect and stick back on snug. then torquing accordingly if nothing is found wrong.
if you do find an issue then you can order, replace, and button up.
it really is a 2 banana job.
dropping the oil pan is the worst part of doing the BEB swap. dirty and a PITA to get loose.
but, you can pull the caps, one at a time, inspect and stick back on snug. then torquing accordingly if nothing is found wrong.
if you do find an issue then you can order, replace, and button up.
it really is a 2 banana job.
I do not know Proactive, but the BEB's are not a 1 day job by far.
1hr getting the oil pan off (take a thin plaster spatula and just drive it sideways around the whole thing with a hammer)
20 minutes pulling each cap and looking at the bearing and playing the torque- plastigage game
30 minutes cleaning up the oil pan with a wire brush
30 minutes cleaning up the oil pan seat
30 minutes installing it with FIPG.
What am I forgetting that makes this a 1 day job? Maybe getting the oil out of ones hair, eyes, ears and nose
cheers,
Jan
crushers
post ho
about 3 hours to do it.
ProActive is a very good shop
and
they go by the hour schedual put out by Toyota.
so if the book calls for 8 hours then that is what they charge.
ProActive is a very good shop
and
they go by the hour schedual put out by Toyota.
so if the book calls for 8 hours then that is what they charge.
Ah, of course, that explains it.
Toyota also quoted me 4 hours to do a waterpump on a Yaris. Then Michael and I did it in 45 minutes, without ever having touched one before...
cheers,
jan
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks for the vote of confidence guys, engine work would be a lot more intimidating without this forum. it's also a time issue for me right now but at $1200!! I will find the time.
For the record ATEB tuned it before I picked it up and set the boost at 16psi. The PO had it cranked up to 23psi. They also did a compression test and said it was 450psi cold across all 6
I already have new bearings and bolts so I will change them out regardless once I've gone that far.....
For the record ATEB tuned it before I picked it up and set the boost at 16psi. The PO had it cranked up to 23psi. They also did a compression test and said it was 450psi cold across all 6
I already have new bearings and bolts so I will change them out regardless once I've gone that far.....
I already have new bearings and bolts so I will change them out regardless once I've gone that far.....
Exactly, couldn't agree more....I did that as soon as I got it, PO said they'd been done and it turned out that they were in very good condition (so at 200,000kms he was right) but at least I can rest easy. Got new acl bearings and bolts from Radd Cruisers in Duncan BC.
Exactly, couldn't agree more....I did that as soon as I got it, PO said they'd been done and it turned out that they were in very good condition (so at 200,000kms he was right) but at least I can rest easy. Got new acl bearings and bolts from Radd Cruisers in Duncan BC.
What am I forgetting that makes this a 1 day job? Maybe getting the oil out of ones hair, eyes, ears and nose
cheers,
Jan
True, unless your lucky enough to strip a couple of the bolt threads and have to throw in Helicoils.......
- Thread starter
- #37
Ok guys I got her cracked open today. The most obvious thing right off the bat was a blue discoloration of the crank at the #1 connecting rod cap. Thad had me worried and I was expecting to find a very bad set of bearings but they look surprisingly good IMO. The cap bearing which I would expect to be the worst of the two showed very little to no wear at all but the upper shows some wear in the middle. Also I see the bearing number shows a standard size but I don't know what make they are. Can someone confirm these are not factory originals?? Hard to tell from the crapy cell phone pics but the crank shows some wear but nothing I can really feel through a latex glove. I guess I will plastigauge it and see if I am within clearance??? How worried should I be about the blue discoloration to the crank??
Any and all feed back is welcome
Any and all feed back is welcome
- Thread starter
- #38
So I Plastigauged it using the old bearings and got a 0.051mm reading. According to the shop manual I am still in the acceptable range. I will install the new bearings and see how much it changes.
Also in this pic it is possible to see the wear on the crank a little more. Is this going to be a big concern if I am still in range and can't feel the wear??
Also in this pic it is possible to see the wear on the crank a little more. Is this going to be a big concern if I am still in range and can't feel the wear??
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- Thread starter
- #39
With new bearings in place the reading changed to 0.076mm. Which would indicate I need U/S (undersized?) bearings if I am doing everything correctly? Or have I altered the reading by using assembly lube??
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok I removed the assembly lube and got the 0.051mm reading again. So I guess my previous results were incorrect and I do need the STD. Size bearings. I am going to go ahead and apply lube and reassemble using the new bearings and bolts and move on to the other cylinders...
I am thinking the crank discoloration is from a previous bad bearing that had already been replaced
I am thinking the crank discoloration is from a previous bad bearing that had already been replaced
