Looking for a replacement to the one pictured off of my 87 FJ60.
Need 2F “secondary air pipe” (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OregonFJ60
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Given the obscurity of these things existing in good condition I think you might want to consider trying to repair yours. Someone on here might know what tool is used to make the flared end....if so then its a matter of sourcing the tubing, applying the flare, applying the bend, and then brazing back on the pipe.
And here is one on Ebay: Seems pricey but supply...demand I guess. Toyota Landcruiser Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 Air Injection Smog Emissions Rail | eBay
Considering the low pressure the smog pump operates at (maybe 10 PSI?), I'm curious if you could replicate the function of the air rail with some high-temp silicone hose (in two sizes, just like the metal tube of the rail), with some appropriately sized barbs, elbows, and tees, and then cut off the original flare fittings (and flared tubing ends) to use as hose barbs on the head. Maybe put a regular flare on the newly-cut end of each to help keep the tubing on with hose clamps. It would be ugly, but it would definitely be cheaper than $275, and if that high-grade silicone can handle being on a turbo, it can handle the heat of a 2F head.
Just as a FYI, that rear nozzle that's been twisted off isn't necessary to allow the air injection to work properly. Mine twisted off too (with a perfect air tight crimp/twist) and still passed smog tests ever since... for over a decade. I eventually found a better one in good shape and replaced it just cuz I didn't like looking at that rusty thing, but one messed up nozzle won't affect a smog test. Just seal off the head nozzle with the other piece so it won't leak. Since its tucked away in the back under the air cleaner, its almost impossible to see anyway, so a smog tech won't ding you for "tampering" or "missing parts" cuz he won't be able to see it.
- Thread starter
- #6
If I can snag another I definitely want to at the very least take the two in together and see if I can get it rebuilt.
To that point it would be easy to solder a few threaded fittings on a new pipe and then make connector hoses in a material rated for the use.
- Thread starter
- #8
Ok I’m still learning here - what is the function of that specific fitting that twisted off then? Am I losing anything else if I just block it off? I don’t even have to pass smog with this rig where I am at anyway. I was under the impression it has more of an impact somewhere.
It is the same as all the other fittings in function. Supposed to inject air into the cylinder for emission purposes. OSS is just saying that 5 working air injectors is good enough to pass an emissions check.
It doesn’t inject air into the cylinder. It’s into the exhaust ports of the cylinder head.
You can cap the “injector” fittings off, or remove them and plug the holes, but it’s a slippery slope. Once you do that you need to figure out what to do with the air pump. You can remove it and put an idler pulley in its place... and before you know it you’ve removed 40 feet of vacuum line...
What were you doing that lead you to removing it? If your truck has all of the smog gear and is together and running, I’d put that back on as OSS suggests and keep an eye open for another broken one to steal a fitting from - they’re brazed together and can be taken apart.
You can cap the “injector” fittings off, or remove them and plug the holes, but it’s a slippery slope. Once you do that you need to figure out what to do with the air pump. You can remove it and put an idler pulley in its place... and before you know it you’ve removed 40 feet of vacuum line...
What were you doing that lead you to removing it? If your truck has all of the smog gear and is together and running, I’d put that back on as OSS suggests and keep an eye open for another broken one to steal a fitting from - they’re brazed together and can be taken apart.
