Napa Platinum/Wix xp filter problem (1 Viewer)

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Aug 26, 2007
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Location
Baton Rouge, LA
I had read a couple of posts discussing problems with the Wix 51515 xp which is the same as the Napa platinum I believe. I had bought a couple of the napa platinum parts a year ago and had installed the second one in December at about 140000 miles. I started noticing lifter/valve noise after start up. Its a 3fe, so I adjusted the valves and it helped a little bit but not a lot. I was running 10w30 during the winter so I chalked it up to the lighter oil. Winter here is Louisiana is very mild. I run 15w40 or 50 during the summer which is very hot and humid. I started noticing that the oil pressure was taking longer and longer to build up on start up. After about 10 to 20 seconds the oil pressure would be normal but the valves would clatter another few minutes.

Weather has been getting hot lately, up in the 80s during the day with lows in the 70s at night so I decided to do and oil change. Anyone with a 3fe knows how big of a mess a filter change can be because of the filter screwing down on to the block. This time however, there was no oil in the filter when I unscrewed it. It was clear that the filter had drained right back into the pan in just the few minutes that it took me to pull the truck in and pull the drain plug.

I replaced the valvoline full synthetic 10w30 and Napa platinum with Mobil 1 15w50 and a fram ultra synthetic filter started it up let it run and topped off the oil. This morning when started it up the oil pressure went up within a second or 2 with no valve noise. I noticed that the first startup after I put the oil in and the empty filter that it took the same 10 to 20 seconds to build oil pressure like the napa filter did every start up.

I think there is a problem with the wix/napa filters so just be aware. I do not think any long term damage was done and I do not have an ax to grind. I used Wix and Napa for a lot of applications but I believe with the way the 3fe mounts it upside down so it is possible to drain all the oil straight back into the pan, the drain back valve used in those filters is not adequate.
 
I strongly recommend the OE filters, for the reasons you outline above. I put data over brand loyalty, but folks have cut open the Toyota OE filters and they have the most media, best pleating and whatnot. I tried the giant Wix filter and it did the same thing, draining out over time and taking a few seconds to fill back up

Better yet, you can get a case of ten of 'em online for like 40 bucks, cheaper than any Wix filter.

Here's the ones I got: 90915-YZZD3, Qty 10, Toyota \ Lexus Oil Filters With Drain Plug Gaskets | eBay
 
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I use those yzzd3 filters in the 2006 4runner that my son drives but that filter was no designed for the 3fe. Toyota discontinued the filter designed for it. The 4runner has the filter sit at a 45 degree angle so it probably has a good drain back valve also. I have researched the filters and many, including the consensus on bobistheoilguy believe the Fram ultra synthetic is one of the best if not the best filter out there, better than the denso that toyota puts their name on and labels it the yzzd3.
 
Use whatever makes you smile. The 3F-E won't care.
Personally, I've always used OEM filters and Amsoil 10W30 on both the 3F-E and 1FZ-FE. I think the large OEM filter 15600-41010 has been NLA for the last 10 years or so. The 90915-YZZD3 fits and works well on both, and in 30 years of oil changes I've never had a dry one on either motor.
Again, use whatever makes you happy.
 
Use OE. It's a simple no thinking required process. You're not saving any money by using aftermarket. It may require you to plan a little better..
 
I've been using OE filters on Toyotas (starting back in the '80s with a string of 22R engines) and have never had an issue. Many, many oil changes and literally hundreds of thousands of miles. Zero issues. They're cheap and easy to get. Why buy anything else?
 
On a side note. Just because the filter in the 3fe is installed upside down does not mean it can’t be pre-filled! Of course you can’t fill it like a conventionally installed filter but you can soak the filtering material. My BJ60 had the filter for stalled the same way and I also owned d a FJ62.
I would fill the filter, let it soak for 5 minutes then pour out the excess. When I did this the BJ would not cut out because of low oil pressure (a nice feature of the Diesel engines).
But t if I did not fill and drain the filter it would take 3 start attempts before the pump filled the filter and the engine kept running, so approximately 9 seconds of running without oil pressure feeding rotating parts while the filter was being filled :oops:.
I always used Toyota or Baldwin filters.
 
I have read posts describing Mobil1 filters as having more and better filtration media. Anyone looked inside an OEM filter and a Mobil1 filter after use and can offer a first hand comparison of each? I cannot, though I have been using OEM for some time.
My main reason for wanting to use Mobil1 is that they're easier to get. I don't want to have to drive to the dealership for a filter, and I'm always ordering something from Amazon.
So, Mobil1 vs. OEM? First hand experience?
 
Interesting conversation!
I definitely use the 90915-YZZD3 on my 1997.
But on this 80 Forum can anyone address filter use for an early 2F, like on my 1981 40? When Toyota stopped producing the big can oil filter I went straight to Wix and for thousands of miles have not had an oil filter failure.
I know the 90915- will fit and I know its an excellent filter but do I heed the fear of the Wix and switch to the 90915- for my old 2F?
Any of you 80’s folks with old 2F’s please chime in.




devo
 
Yep. Whole thread on engines that have died from these filters. You have similiar behaivor that I had before engine death...oil pressure taking a while to build, and when it does, not much at all. If you're using a WIX oil filter read this

I sent mine to Blackstone but they typically don't analyze mechanical failure mechanisms of filters...and they found nothing wrong. But my oil pressure gauge clearly showed a defect in the Napa filter.
 
Toyota filters work properly. No reason ever to use a cheapo, Wix, NAPA, Fram, or any off-brand.

Having said that I've used Mobil 1 filter the 1FZFE with no issues. Years ago I always used Fram filters, in everything including a 60 series, never had any issues (I'm not recommending Fram however). I've also done regular engine oil analysis for many years and
have never seen a EOA result that I could tie to using one filter or another.

Point is, IMHO, a filter that won't fail is a much safer bet than any cheapo filter or a filter that says it filters out a few microns more.
 
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Some of the differences in filters is bypass pressure ratings. The bypass rating for filter for the 1fzfe is 14 psi, the bypass pressure rating for the 2f is 9 psi.
These pressures are from the Baldwin site, for those not familiar with Baldwin filters they are some of the best out there.
The filter from Baldwin, for the 1fzfe, B7020, is the small style just like the new Toyota filters where the one like the old big Toyota filter is for the 2f, the B2 Baldwin.
I am running the B2 on my 93. I like the idea of a lower bypass pressure.

Does anybody know the bypass pressure of the Toyota filters?
 
Dont think that I am using the cheap Fram extended guard or whatever they call it. I was 8.97 at walmart. A dollar less than the mobil 1 filter. I choose the fram ultra synthetic because it is arguably the best oil filter available. It has more and better filter media than the toyota/denso filter.

 
Yeah, I think this discussion is like "what's the best oil to use----".

IMHO the degree of filtering (lower micron level) doesn't matter
if you're using a filter with a higher failure rate and/or one that bypasses the
filter media more often than the Toyota filter.

If in doubt just use the correct Toyota filter, takes the guess work (and opinions) out of the equation.
 
I've said it before and I'll say it again, fretting about this stuff causes more wear on the driver than it ever will on the engine....
 
I am not fretting. I used the wix/napa filter but noticed the oil pressure and lifter/valve noise problems in this application and was simply sharing my experience. I also said that I have always used the yzzd3 in my 2006 4runner that has 130,000 miles and runs perfectly. I presently have 2 on the shelf but I had several reasons for not running it in the 3fe. First of all, if I can fit a bigger filter, I generally like to because of both increased volume and filtering ability or capacity. Secondly during the summer I run 15w50. No application that uses the yzzd3 would ever have a 15w50 oil recommended for it. The 4runner gets 5w30 year round. Thirdly, the new synthetic filter media technology is considerably better at filtering out contaminates for longer. I dont plan on changing the oil until November or December so it will be a long run. Bobistheoilguy forum members test everything and the fram ultra synthetic filter seams to do a better job in long drain intervals in used oil analysis, especially for the money. The yzzd3 is a good filter but it is not the original filter the was designed for the engine or the oil I use and it is old fiberglass cellulose technology. The wix xp and napa platinum both have synthetic filter media but appear to have drain back valve problems.
 
I think the large OEM filter 15600-41010 has been NLA for the last 10 years or so.

its not available at the dealerships but is available for Toyota equipment such as skidd steers and fork lifts 15600-41010-71 : Forklift OIL FILTER - SAME DAY SHIPPING,
ELEMENT S/A.


I've said it before and I'll say it again, fretting about this stuff causes more wear on the driver than it ever will on the engine....

in most cases yes unless the filter shreds your motor If you're using a WIX oil filter read this
 
I use yzzd3 in both 2001 taco and my 96 80. Never cared about filters that much until I had a 2003 taco and my top end would be dry on first start in the morning. Never had that issue with the yzzd3 and the added benefit of not having to crush the filters to get them off. Plus they are cheap.

Filters should filter well and they should keep the top end wet. If your filter does not do one of those well then stop using it.
 

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