My Truck is a Rust Bucket

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K

Kigiin

10 Year 15 Year
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Jun 22, 2006
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My mechanic called after finishing up a lengthy 90K service for me saying he couldn't get the bleeder values on the brakes open due to extensive rust. On top of that, he broke the thermostat housing due to rust (not sure I have part name right but photos attached). He went on to say my passenger side rocker was totally rusted (I knew that). Most suspension components are fully rusted and even the straps on the gas tank are corroded. When I said my next project for him was changing out the AHC for an OME suspension he said that it would likely not be possible due to the rust. He said in all of his experience (25 years), he has never seen a more rusted vehicle. He advised not taking it off road due to fragility of suspension and other components.

I just had it sprayed with Krown but too little too late. I was hoping to get another 200K miles out it but can't imagine incurring another 200k of rust and it still being operational. I suppose I will keep going until maintenance/issues become cost prohibitive vs a new truck.

Is there anything I can do to abate this pervasive rust?



 
Post some pictures of the undercarriage. If it isn't safe enough for a much simpler and new suspension, it probably isn't safe to drive now.
 
I'd be hard pressed to spend any money on a severely rusted vehicle, it's going to be one thing after the other. Seems like you can dump it and pick up a $10k rust free cruiser in a southern state or drive yours until it falls apart.
 
Rust sux. My 80 was rusty, and every simple job turned into a nightmare of broken bolts, Dremeling, retapping, etc. Dump it, get another if you want to work on it yourself. After owning two very rust free cruisers since, I just laugh every time a bolt comes out cleanly and easily...
 
Thermostat housing is aluminum. That's not rust.
 
I feel you on the rust issue. Damn the salt belt. I need to move south. My 99 has been in the Midwest all its life. Its not pretty underneath but I am doing some preventative and painting to help prolong the life of it. I am 99% sure my next TLC will be another 100, as it has been my favorite truck I have owned. So I guess I will drive this one until it falls apart, and swap any parts, bumpers, lights, etc to the new one. Good luck though.
 
With the neck of the thermostat housing breakage. I've had the same thing that happened to me when I went to replace the timing belt.
 
Mechanic said he didn't know how it broke so maybe wrongly assumed rust.

This was the second 90k service at 191k miles.

I wanted to get another 200k out if but given the growing rust issues I highly doubt it. Other than the rust this truck has been built proof and well maintained. I hate to give her up to a 100 I don't know anything about (except that is has way less rust).

I am thinking about putting it on a rack and POR 15 the crap out of it. The Krown may not be enough at this point. But this won't help disassembly issues and potential broken parts when removing. However other than this step, I don't know what else to do.
 
Have you ever tried GEM Rust Killer? It'll neutralize the rust. Similar to POR 15, but this one you can spray.
 
I feel your pain. My 99 with 193k (in the rust belt) is beautiful and shiny on top and rusting from the inside out on the bottom. That being said, I really doubt it is to the point of unsafe. It is probably just a pita to work on and he would rather not work on it at regular shop rates. Consider all your options and go all in with what you decide.
 
I would get out while its still running decent. Start over. You can get a clean rig in a less rusty state, let someone else drive it into the ground. Dont use a rustbucket as a new rig platform. If I saw a rig that was super rusty, I would not go off of standard hours for a job. I would have my boss charge much more. Its totally fair, as everything takes way longer to fix with bad rust. At the dealer we wouldn't even mess with it. Rusty wheel bearing-replace the whole knuckle and everything. 1000 bucks plus. Ya it sounds harsh, but it beats heating and pressing and air hammer, and by that time the knuckle may be wasted anyway. When its rust like yours, its like trying to fix the titanic, sure you could do it, but its gonna time and money.
 
Aluminum definitely corrodes, gets pitting and can crack. Just ask anyone in aviation. That could have contributed to your issue.

Imho, drop it and get a rig from dry country. You will be way ahead in the long run.
 
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I'd punt and play for the return on a diff rig. You've still been profitable on this, don't force the market's hand.

This is largely why I bought a good sized can of NoRust upon arrival of my LC.
 
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