So heres a tiny bit about my crossmember issue...
It was badly cracked in two places and eventually failed from wall loss via corrosion. It amazes me that a semi-structural component on this truck was built from what effectively amounts to exhaust tubing. I digress..
First I started out by cutting my old crossmember out. I started with an angle grinder and then quickly realized it was going to take hours at that rate. I've got a good idea of that an hour of my time costs, so I broke own and bought a Milwaukee Reciprocating saw. It made short work of it all and I was able to cut the old crossmember very close to the frame and level it out with the angle grinder and abrasive wheel. I also wire brushed the entire area at this point.
Did a rough measurement to see my distance between the rails...
Here is the rough lay out of what I used:
10 FT of 2 in X 2 in .180 wall tubing (Smallest size I felt comfortable using and still being able to get into my Wife's VW Golf.
(2) pieces of 3.5 in x 3.5 in .200 wall plate
(2) Pro Comp P-19 5/8 shock studs
(2) sections of 5/8 ID scrap tubing to weld onto the studs as a sleeve.
I cut the sleeves to length and scored 3 lines in them to allow me to weld the sleeve to the stud, so I wouldn't be relying on welding directly to the stud/tube.
We plug welded the plate to what was left of the old crossmember that was fitted into the frame. This was just a starting point, we then welded around the beveled edge around the plate to the frame. I didn't want to try and fit the crossbar to the truck with the end plates attached to the tube, so I felt I would be better able to control the angles by making it a slight interference fit. I cut the bar a hair long, then I used a rubber mallet to fit it in. We were able to control and hold the angles this way and it wouldn't slip before we could tac it in place. Worked like a charm. I had to grind down the plate after we welded on it a bit. No worries.
Also, I was able to control the Y axis which placed the studs very close to the factory locations by being able to shift the tube on the plate before welding. I had to guesstimate it because my bar was so far gone that I couldn't even measure the offset. I'm no more than .25" off, close enough for my needs.
Welded the studs to the bar and threw a quick rattle can paint job on to rust proof it since I knew I couldn't easily paint it in the truck.
Here it is welded in the truck. I moved the lines on the passengers side of the rail off a bit for this whole process and wrapped them in leather while we welded. I passed the bar through and it fit very well.
This is the best shot of it so far. Ignore the paint pen marks, the tube seemed like the best thing to write on at the time.
***WORD TO THE WISE***
There is an offset in the shocks. They are not spaced evenly. Due to the axle offset, you will have to stagger them slightly off of the drivers side frame rail a bit. MEASURE 6 TIMES AND CUT ONCE!
So I'm into this repair $36 for the 2x2 tube, $12 for the 4 shock studs (only used two, but I lose stuff a lot) and the scrap small diameter tube along with the .200 thick plate was free.50. Welding supplied by one of my best car buddies.
It isn't perfect and I'm not a fabricator. I could have done more prep work and finishing and painted it nicer but for 3 hours of work in the dark I'm not complaining. The truck was sitting on crookedly loaded shocks for who knows how long.
I can now move onto my lift kit with complete and utter confidence.
It was badly cracked in two places and eventually failed from wall loss via corrosion. It amazes me that a semi-structural component on this truck was built from what effectively amounts to exhaust tubing. I digress..
First I started out by cutting my old crossmember out. I started with an angle grinder and then quickly realized it was going to take hours at that rate. I've got a good idea of that an hour of my time costs, so I broke own and bought a Milwaukee Reciprocating saw. It made short work of it all and I was able to cut the old crossmember very close to the frame and level it out with the angle grinder and abrasive wheel. I also wire brushed the entire area at this point.
Did a rough measurement to see my distance between the rails...
Here is the rough lay out of what I used:
10 FT of 2 in X 2 in .180 wall tubing (Smallest size I felt comfortable using and still being able to get into my Wife's VW Golf.
(2) pieces of 3.5 in x 3.5 in .200 wall plate
(2) Pro Comp P-19 5/8 shock studs
(2) sections of 5/8 ID scrap tubing to weld onto the studs as a sleeve.
I cut the sleeves to length and scored 3 lines in them to allow me to weld the sleeve to the stud, so I wouldn't be relying on welding directly to the stud/tube.
We plug welded the plate to what was left of the old crossmember that was fitted into the frame. This was just a starting point, we then welded around the beveled edge around the plate to the frame. I didn't want to try and fit the crossbar to the truck with the end plates attached to the tube, so I felt I would be better able to control the angles by making it a slight interference fit. I cut the bar a hair long, then I used a rubber mallet to fit it in. We were able to control and hold the angles this way and it wouldn't slip before we could tac it in place. Worked like a charm. I had to grind down the plate after we welded on it a bit. No worries.
Also, I was able to control the Y axis which placed the studs very close to the factory locations by being able to shift the tube on the plate before welding. I had to guesstimate it because my bar was so far gone that I couldn't even measure the offset. I'm no more than .25" off, close enough for my needs.
Welded the studs to the bar and threw a quick rattle can paint job on to rust proof it since I knew I couldn't easily paint it in the truck.
Here it is welded in the truck. I moved the lines on the passengers side of the rail off a bit for this whole process and wrapped them in leather while we welded. I passed the bar through and it fit very well.
This is the best shot of it so far. Ignore the paint pen marks, the tube seemed like the best thing to write on at the time.
***WORD TO THE WISE***
There is an offset in the shocks. They are not spaced evenly. Due to the axle offset, you will have to stagger them slightly off of the drivers side frame rail a bit. MEASURE 6 TIMES AND CUT ONCE!
So I'm into this repair $36 for the 2x2 tube, $12 for the 4 shock studs (only used two, but I lose stuff a lot) and the scrap small diameter tube along with the .200 thick plate was free.50. Welding supplied by one of my best car buddies.
It isn't perfect and I'm not a fabricator. I could have done more prep work and finishing and painted it nicer but for 3 hours of work in the dark I'm not complaining. The truck was sitting on crookedly loaded shocks for who knows how long.
I can now move onto my lift kit with complete and utter confidence.
