Builds My "ran when parked" Land Cruiser from Craigslist

[elizle]

This is my 1992 Land Cruiser that I bought in October. It is currently white, but the paint code is two-tone silver and red. It has a rebuilt title, and I believe it was repainted after a front-end collision. The frame and body are in great shape for a 1992, minimal surface rust. It still has the badge from "Tuscaloosa Toyota" on the back, and I found a license plate sticker from Tennessee, so it was in the south before making its way to Indiana. I'm sure this helped keep it away from road salt. The previous owner parked it because the passenger's side wheel bearing needs replaced. After being parked for over a year, it no longer starts without starting fluid. So far, I have soaked the fuel pump hanger assembly and filler neck in Evaporust, re-wired and replaced the fuel pump, replaced gaskets on the fuel pump and filler neck, and dropped and cleaned the gas tank. I ran the parts number on the pump, and it was 14GPH and not a Denso. I got a Denso pump for a 2008 4Runner from Napa which is 33GPH, and drops right in with the stock connector. While the tank was removed, I took a wire brush to it and painted it with Rustoleum rust converter.

I am still trying to figure out why it won't start. EFI fuse is blowing, so I am currently searching for a short. I also need to check the fuel lines and filter, and verify that the AFM is working correctly.

 

[elizle]

The fuel pump wiring was a mess when I got it. I bought some new weather pack connectors and got it close to stock.

 

[Marco Lau]

Check the fusible link connection.

 

[elizle]

Check the fusible link connection.

Fusible link was replaced by the previous owner. I've confirmed that it's working correctly.

 

[Marco Lau]

Fusible link was replaced by the previous owner. I've confirmed that it's working correctly.

You probably have a short in your wiring if yo keep blowing EFI relay.

 

[elizle]

Fuel pump hanger after a good soak.

I used an 16mm M4 copper bolt to replace the missing copper bulkhead and a 4x17x4 rubber washer on the bottom to keep it from shorting out on the bottom of the fuel pump hanger. I would use at least an 18mm if I was doing this again.

 

[greentruck]

Those brass buttons that lead the wiring through the hatch? Check underneath the plastic caps. Corossion sneaks in there and gives variety of intermittent issues before one of them just fails. Best solution is to just replace the hatch.

 

[jonheld]

I am still trying to figure out why it won't start. EFI fuse is blowing, so I am currently searching for a short.

That's your answer right there. This engine will never start without the 15 amp EFI fuse.
The entire EFI system as well as the ECU runs off that fuse.
Have a read through this document. It will put you on the correct path.

General Tech - 3FE EFI Diagnostics

3FE EFI Diagnostics updated for 2020

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[onemanarmy]

well yea, it won't run without the EFI fuse.

why is popping the fuse is the question

(are you using those cheap crimp connectors inside the fuel tank or was it already like that?)

 

[elizle]

well yea, it won't run without the EFI fuse.

why is popping the fuse is the question

(are you using those cheap crimp connectors inside the fuel tank or was it already like that?)

It was already like that. I clipped them off and used one that came with the fuel pump.

 

[Grimmjow]

100% EFI fuse. Pick up a box of them online and keep them in your center console.

 

[Marco Lau]

The EFI fuse and wiring is inadequate and the relay box and wiring underneath is probably melted down due to heat and there is a short somewhere. Put a Voltmeter on there to test the resistance of the wiring and continuity,

 

[elizle]

That's your answer right there. This engine will never start without the 15 amp EFI fuse.
The entire EFI system as well as the ECU runs off that fuse.
Have a read through this document. It will put you on the correct path.

General Tech - 3FE EFI Diagnostics

3FE EFI Diagnostics updated for 2020

forum.ih8mud.com

I used that to rule out a lot of other things. I got a cheap short finder on Amazon, but it seems like spending more money on a better tool would have been a good idea. I started unraveling some of the harness and found a few things that need fixed, but shouldn't be causing a short on that circuit. Hopefully the weather will be nice again this weekend and I can get some work done.

Side note: I left the access panel for the fuel pump open and a critter got inside, so I gotta figure out how to get it out. I think it's a lizard judging by the random "poop" that I need to clean up. Hopefully I can figure out something more humane than a glue trap.

 

[elizle]

Those brass buttons that lead the wiring through the hatch? Check underneath the plastic caps. Corossion sneaks in there and gives variety of intermittent issues before one of them just fails. Best solution is to just replace the hatch.

I imagine that's why they switched to a bulkhead connector on the FZJ80. I may order one of those if it keeps giving me issue, I wasn't sure if they were compatible when I started working on it, so I decided to repair what I had.

 

[jonheld]

I used that to rule out a lot of other things. I got a cheap short finder on Amazon, but it seems like spending more money on a better tool would have been a good idea. I started unraveling some of the harness and found a few things that need fixed, but shouldn't be causing a short on that circuit. Hopefully the weather will be nice again this weekend and I can get some work done.

Side note: I left the access panel for the fuel pump open and a critter got inside, so I gotta figure out how to get it out. I think it's a lizard judging by the random "poop" that I need to clean up. Hopefully I can figure out something more humane than a glue trap.

All of the FP wiring runs through connector BO1 which is under the frame by the C channel. It's exposed to the elements and is a good place to look for corrosion/issues.
And yes, a good meter along with the Toyota EWD and FSM is invaluable.

 

[elizle]

All of the FP wiring runs through connector BO1 which is under the frame by the C channel. It's exposed to the elements and is a good place to look for corrosion/issues.
And yes, a good meter along with the Toyota EWD and FSM is invaluable.

I was unable to find the EWD for the 92, but I downloaded the one for the 91. Hopefully, there's not a huge difference.

 

[jonheld]

I was unable to find the EWD for the 92, but I downloaded the one for the 91. Hopefully, there's not a huge difference.

They're almost identical.

 

[Augustiron]

On a 1fzfe I worked on, there was a broken and shorting injector wire at the injector that shorted out the EFI circuit...
Worth looking at the injectors wiring...

 

[elizle]

On a 1fzfe I worked on, there was a broken and shorting injector wire at the injector that shorted out the EFI circuit...
Worth looking at the injectors wiring...

I plan on cleaning the injectors, so that's probably no a bad idea.

 

[greentruck]

All of the FP wiring runs through connector BO1 which is under the frame by the C channel. It's exposed to the elements and is a good place to look for corrosion/issues.
And yes, a good meter along with the Toyota EWD and FSM is invaluable.

Yeah, that BO1 connector is definitely low-hanging fruit and worth confirming whether it's an issue or not due to its exposure to the elements.

But there is something going on with that tank hatch assembly. The OP notes a relatively clean truck, but doesn't note how many miles are on it. My LX 450 had around 325000 when I acquired it, with a relatively clean body from spending most if its time in the dry Southwest. I got it in Michigan, where it resided the last 2 or 3 years, but the owner said she parked in for the winter inside. The top of the tank really gets very little exposure to splash. I suspect there's some sort of condensation process going on possibly from the tank line drawing cold fuel that causes moisture to bead up around the fittings on the tank hatch thus initiating the process that causes corrosion underneath the plastic button covers.