My New Rivet Nut Tool (1 Viewer)

[Joe_E]

I'm so stoked about this new tool that I had to share that coolness with you mudders.
Big thanks to my cousin Jay who works for McMaster-Carr and gets like a 50% discount.

It's a USA made AVK Hi-Torquer rivet nut installation tool. I also got the right bit and two packs of M8 1.25 nuts.
First job is to install nuts so I can bolt up my skidplate on my FJ60 resto project. I'm using an 88 frame so there are only holes with no nut welded to the inside.

 

[LukeZero]

Joe- that's not gonna work very well- you might as well just send it to me before you get frustrated.












nice tool

 

[davegonz]

Looks cool, do you get enough torque from that t-handle to deform the insert? Looks like a well made tool.

 

[Joe_E]

Looks cool, do you get enough torque from that t-handle to deform the insert? Looks like a well made tool.

Actually Dave the top of the T has an inserted steel square to accept a 1/4" drive ratchet or breaker bar. As you mentioned I would expect to use that option on the bigger insert nuts that I am going to use.

 

[Dirtsquirt]

Que

are those nutserts gonna give you enough strength for a skid plate? They dont look very thick. we use occasionaly in sheet metal. but dont expect alot out of them.

Just wondering enlighten me!

PS dont mean to come off ass a nay sayer. they just seem light weight to me.

 

[sprocket3]

Can i rent that from you for a couple weeks?

 

[e9999]

nice!

mine looks more like a regular rivet gun with a squeeze handle. Needed to buy a bunch of adapters for various sizes of rivnuts of course.

Personally, I would not trust anything subject to high forces to be held in place by rivnuts

 

[Joe_E]

are those nutserts gonna give you enough strength for a skid plate? They dont look very thick. we use occasionaly in sheet metal. but dont expect alot out of them.

Just wondering enlighten me!

PS dont mean to come off ass a nay sayer. they just seem light weight to me.

The top lip and top sides are thinner but that is the part that gets squeezed and it's only purpose is to hold the nut in the hole. The bottom is pretty stout and solid. The stock FJ60 skidplate isn't a very heavy piece to begin with so i'm hoping it will be fine.
I realize it doesn't replace a real nut but I can't think of a way to get one in there without cutting another hole, and that's not gonna happen.
Should be excellent for other projects as well.

 

[KLF]

This is the one I have:

Alcoa -- Product Catalog: Fastening Systems: Marson Thread-Setterâ„¢ Tool / 39200

I have several mandrels for it, and a bunch of inserts. It's one of those type of tools that you agonize over buying it, but then once you have it, you find tons of uses for it. I love mine.

 

[2mbb]

I have one (squeeze handle) that I purchased from Mcmaster carr a few years ago. I had a recent job Where I needed a different mandrel (#10-32), but Mcmaster doesn't carry that model any more and I couldn't find it anywhere online (I guess either the OEM went out of business or stopped making the rivet nut tool). I eventually found that AVK makes a "throw away" tool that costs about $5 that I purchased at MSC. this got me through the 10 or so installations I needed before it started to show wear.

MSC Item Detail

If you do a search you can find links to home made ones, but if you are going to do more than just a few, a real tool is nice.

 

[MANUCHAO]

how big of a nutsert could you use with this tool??
I like it that you could use a ratchet or braker bar.
I have the gun style and had to install some 3/8 or 1/2" steel nutsert.
I did the job but had a hard time doing it....

Actually Dave the top of the T has an inserted steel square to accept a 1/4" drive ratchet or breaker bar. As you mentioned I would expect to use that option on the bigger insert nuts that I am going to use.

 

[Joe_E]

how big of a nutsert could you use with this tool??
I like it that you could use a ratchet or braker bar.
I have the gun style and had to install some 3/8 or 1/2" steel nutsert.
I did the job but had a hard time doing it....

Here's the catalog page-

McMaster-Carr

Biggest looks like M10 X 1.50 and 3/8" 24

 

[e9999]

should not be too difficult to rig something up with a rod and coupla nuts that would work for setting rivnuts up, I would think.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

A good while back, I copied these instructions for a homemade tool. It works well.

I've also used this tool, (Rivet Nut Tools | Rivet Nut Tool | Rivet Gun | Rivet Tool | Rivet Pop Gun | Rivet Pneumatic Gun). The mfg modified one to do 8M as they only go to 6M. I'm gonna try it on my skidplate hole where the nut broke off inside. The Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts long enough to grip the frame thickness from MSCdirect is #56587082. Same as the longer one shown here (7.9mm) from McMaster item # 95105A195.
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RivetNut Installation

Start out with a strip of 12 gauge steel (~1/8") about 12" X 1". Near the end, drill a clearance hole of the appropriate size for a bolt that fits the nutsert.

Get a long class 10.9/Grade 8 bolt (same thread size as the nutsert), nut and flat washer.

Thread the nut onto the bolt until it's near the head of the bolt. Slide the flat washer onto the bolt. Now stick the end of the bolt through the hole in the steel strip.

Thread the nutsert onto the end of the bolt until the end of the bolt is flush with the bottom of the nutsert. Slide the steel strip and the flat washer up against the face of the nutsert.

Lubricate the bolt thread that's now exposed between the nut and the flat washer with a molybdenum lubricant (doing it at this point minimizes getting lubricant on the nutsert threads). Thread the nut down until it touches the flatwasher.

Push the nutsert into its hole.

Use two wrenches. One to hold the head of the bolt stationary. One to turn the nut. The steel strip should also be held stationary.

*** This is the key point *** By holding the steel strip and the bolt stationary, there will be no twisting force applied to the nutsert as it is tightened. As the nut is turned, the bolt will be pulled straight out, collapsing and seating the nutsert.

When the nutsert is very tightly seated, loosen the nut a little and then unthread the bolt from the nutsert.

Using this method with the steel strip, you should have no problem with RivetNuts being loose. I've installed many nutserts this way without any problem. HTH. Brian Brown

 

[Moby]

This is an interesting design. I've got a pop rivet style nutsert tool myself, and, whimp that I am, it can take two hands to get it started (for example setting 6mm nutserts in my frame to mount my tranny cooler).

 

[n2666s]

Use a similar tool; the C-302 made/marketed by Cardinal componentshttp://www.cardinalcomponents.com/...........they have nice videos of how to use it; mine is very old was made by BF Goodrich who then sold to Cardinall/Bollhoff; can go up to 12MM; insert steel nutserts w/o problems..........they also market and sell a manual allen wrench nutsert inserter that is very nice; only problem is when you get used to the airpowered tool it spoils you for manual inatalling tools HTH

Lou

P.S. hate the poprivet type nutsert insert tools

A good while back, I copied these instructions for a homemade tool. It works well.

I've also used this tool, (Rivet Nut Tools | Rivet Nut Tool | Rivet Gun | Rivet Tool | Rivet Pop Gun | Rivet Pneumatic Gun). The mfg modified one to do 8M as they only go to 6M. I'm gonna try it on my skidplate hole where the nut broke off inside. The Open-End Knurled Rivet Nuts long enough to grip the frame thickness from MSCdirect is #56587082. Same as the longer one shown here (7.9mm) from McMaster item # 95105A195.
======
RivetNut Installation

Start out with a strip of 12 gauge steel (~1/8") about 12" X 1". Near the end, drill a clearance hole of the appropriate size for a bolt that fits the nutsert.

Get a long class 10.9/Grade 8 bolt (same thread size as the nutsert), nut and flat washer.

Thread the nut onto the bolt until it's near the head of the bolt. Slide the flat washer onto the bolt. Now stick the end of the bolt through the hole in the steel strip.

Thread the nutsert onto the end of the bolt until the end of the bolt is flush with the bottom of the nutsert. Slide the steel strip and the flat washer up against the face of the nutsert.

Lubricate the bolt thread that's now exposed between the nut and the flat washer with a molybdenum lubricant (doing it at this point minimizes getting lubricant on the nutsert threads). Thread the nut down until it touches the flatwasher.

Push the nutsert into its hole.

Use two wrenches. One to hold the head of the bolt stationary. One to turn the nut. The steel strip should also be held stationary.

*** This is the key point *** By holding the steel strip and the bolt stationary, there will be no twisting force applied to the nutsert as it is tightened. As the nut is turned, the bolt will be pulled straight out, collapsing and seating the nutsert.

When the nutsert is very tightly seated, loosen the nut a little and then unthread the bolt from the nutsert.

Using this method with the steel strip, you should have no problem with RivetNuts being loose. I've installed many nutserts this way without any problem. HTH. Brian Brown

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Dragging this old thread from the dead.


These little guys are rated for more load and I would trust them over the rivnuts.

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/threaded-inserts.html

Rob