- Thread starter
- #101
That fan is GM pwm fan that was sourced with our harness and computer.
Not sure the specific radiator, but we probably got it from Summitt. We'd already had it on the 2F from 2020. We're hoping it's adequate for the L8T
Builds My introduction...
- Thread starter AcroSteve
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Not sure the specific radiator, but we probably got it from Summitt. We'd already had it on the 2F from 2020. We're hoping it's adequate for the L8T
Why electric fan? No room for mechanical fan?
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- #103
That's the stock fan for the l8t. Variable speed.
Up side is it can run 100% independent of engine speed.
It's strange watching the engine warm up with no fan at all until it reaches 210f. Then it goes to work holding it right there.
Heard the pwm fans are great!! I am going mechanical if I can. Texas heat!!
- Thread starter
- #105
I think I'm done with the front frame/ bumper mounting.
Unlike the rear, an OEM bumper wont fit this front easily.
Such is the way of custom fabrication
Besides a difference in the width, the 80 frame is well below where the 60 frame is on relation to the radiator support.
But, the radiator support had to be set 1st. As how the main body sits ln the frame determines it's location/ elevation.
My bumper was built with the winch mount being separate, but resting the bumper on top of the frame resulted in it being about 1.5" high. Had I put it around the frame rail like factory, it would have been over 3" low. So, modifications had to be made.
I retained the top portion with the captured nuts, and shifted them down and over to get the bumper where it needed to be. Then I angled the remaining bottom up to lesen the chance of it catching anything like a rock.
Welded in some reinforcement and something to catch the top of the winch mount and bumper, and that's a wrap.
Unlike the rear, an OEM bumper wont fit this front easily.
Such is the way of custom fabrication
Besides a difference in the width, the 80 frame is well below where the 60 frame is on relation to the radiator support.
But, the radiator support had to be set 1st. As how the main body sits ln the frame determines it's location/ elevation.
My bumper was built with the winch mount being separate, but resting the bumper on top of the frame resulted in it being about 1.5" high. Had I put it around the frame rail like factory, it would have been over 3" low. So, modifications had to be made.
I retained the top portion with the captured nuts, and shifted them down and over to get the bumper where it needed to be. Then I angled the remaining bottom up to lesen the chance of it catching anything like a rock.
Welded in some reinforcement and something to catch the top of the winch mount and bumper, and that's a wrap.
If you get a front end hit will you push in your body mount? I would gusset the lower piece to the frame so the upward bending moment is eliminated.
- Thread starter
- #108
Helpful suggestion
The lower mount is as solid as the frame. I wonder if whatever I do, the impact would just then be transferred to the frame behind that mount.
That's the downside to such solid bumpers...
I'll look into it.
- Thread starter
- #111
After getting the drivers side inner fender modified. I moved on to the steering shaft.
From the u joint at the firewall on in is FJ60. But the fj60 shaft and joint at the steering gear would not work. The ujoint was too big and interfered at the spring bucket. So, I have to use the FJ80 shaft, which is too long.
Due to the size of the crush sleeve, I decided to shorten it on the firewall end.
I removed a full 3", but 2-3/4 might have worked too.
Not sure yet if I'm gonna worry about closing that bottom section of the inner fender back in. Probably just gonna use rubber fender liner there.
From the u joint at the firewall on in is FJ60. But the fj60 shaft and joint at the steering gear would not work. The ujoint was too big and interfered at the spring bucket. So, I have to use the FJ80 shaft, which is too long.
Due to the size of the crush sleeve, I decided to shorten it on the firewall end.
I removed a full 3", but 2-3/4 might have worked too.
Not sure yet if I'm gonna worry about closing that bottom section of the inner fender back in. Probably just gonna use rubber fender liner there.
Is the step retractable? Manually or powered?Final installation on the step will allow for the original Amp PowerstepXL rock rails for mall crawling with the jeeps.
View attachment 3518404
Or...
The real rock sliders for keeping up with the yota buggies
View attachment 3518405View attachment 3518406
- Thread starter
- #115
Yep. Powered.
PowerstepXL by AMP.
I picked this up on marketplace. Lightly used from a 2019 dodge.
$400
- Thread starter
- #116
Here's what I came up with for the brake lines. I deleted the abs, but not the lspv.
Re bent the original 80 lines, with the exception of the 60 line for the right front that goes across the firewall.
I think it's right
.
And I've got the ecm and fuse block mounted for the engine.
Re bent the original 80 lines, with the exception of the 60 line for the right front that goes across the firewall.
I think it's right
. And I've got the ecm and fuse block mounted for the engine.
- Thread starter
- #117
Air filter box mockup.
Not sure what material to use. I have some 1/8 aluminum diamond plate that might be big enough. But will probably just be plain aluminum.
That filter is stock on a 5.7 chevy engine. It's 6" diameter and 10" long. Should be enough for that 6.6.
I just hope the hood hinge clears.
Not sure what material to use. I have some 1/8 aluminum diamond plate that might be big enough. But will probably just be plain aluminum.
That filter is stock on a 5.7 chevy engine. It's 6" diameter and 10" long. Should be enough for that 6.6.
I just hope the hood hinge clears.
....hood hinge clears....that's simple @AcroSteve. put the hood back on , close it. it'll self clearance 
you're makin' good headway it seems
you're makin' good headway it seems
- Thread starter
- #119
Even though I'm working on it all the time, progress seems slow sometimes.
Still knocking off things that will need done while the front clip is on, but the body is coming back off soon.
I went back and forth some on the transmission cooler, but this is where it's at for now. We will probably put a couple 7" electric fans on it. And the little black cooler will be for the steering.
Still knocking off things that will need done while the front clip is on, but the body is coming back off soon.
I went back and forth some on the transmission cooler, but this is where it's at for now. We will probably put a couple 7" electric fans on it. And the little black cooler will be for the steering.
- Thread starter
- #120
I've got the airbox roughed in with aluminum, but need to do a bit of welding to finish it up.
I installed some hood struts too. Mostly because I had to ditch the helper spring to make room for the air box
Plenty of room
I installed some hood struts too. Mostly because I had to ditch the helper spring to make room for the air box
Plenty of room
