My Introduction......and my 60

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finished welding the adapter together today, it wont win any beauty prizes, but its strong. I took the photos with my samsung phone, they turned out pretty ordinary, but anyway, s*** photos are better than none i guess

once welded i put a bur in the die grinder and port matched everything, got the sharp lip off the inside of the 12mm T25 flange, it all turned out pretty good. I will need to add a bracket to brace the assembly somewhere on the block.
I also machined up an extension for the waste-gate actuator. Once i clocked the housings to where i needed them the original wastegate actuator bracket fouled on the turbo's discharge pipe. Just need to make a bracket up to secure the actuator to the manifold. I also Made a turbine housing heat-sheild out of gal sheet metal, just need to fabricate a bracket. will see how gal holds up to the heat, its two layers and I folded the top layer over the bottom, this seems to be the way the factory make them.
I finished up welding with the stick welder, and as per usual, by the time i finished the welds looked resonably good lol....typical, i almost felt like die-grinding my first welds down and re-doing, but i wasnt keen to put any more heat into my flange and risk warping it.
Next jobs:

1) Make a dump pipe with exhaust flange
2) aquire an oil line and silicon joiners
3) intercooler
4) water lines
5) make a brace to help support the turbo...probably attached to the block somewhere
6) remove sump and braze a return line pipe in

pics:

tacked in position


Interference fit flange


T25 flange


welded together


a flock of seagull took a dump? or is it a weld? lol


porting out the inside of the exhaust adapter


Radiused inside the T25 flange



Proposed dump, 2.5" 4mm steam pipe bend


heatsheild




wastegate actuator, extended




Sik


and blurred photo for added effect, i painted the pipe, thought it might make my welds look better?? lol

 
Love your work mate, love your workshop more though! Shed envy!

You're doing pretty much the same as turbo glide does with that manifold, they just use a off the shelf cast manifold but as long as your welds have penetrated (who cares what they look like) she'll be right. Turbo glide run the T28 as well and the high mount makes all the difference, just trying working on the 12ht C26 vs a high mount T28 and you'll appreciate one of the few mods that exist in 60's that Toyota could've done better the first time, not taking anything away from the 12ht here folks.

Awesome work keeping another 60 alive, it's hard for blokes to hear in this scene that these things are becoming rare in good shape and are climbing in value closely behind the HJ47. 10 years time anyone who's over modded their prized 60 will be scratching their head trying to figure out why there beloved isn't fetching $20k like all the other near originals.

I just spoke to a bloke who was trying to get $15k for his lifted turbo'd HJ47 and couldn't understand why his rig was in as good condition as another one that just sold for $25k with no rust no mods and low kms and he couldn't get an offer over $10k.
Watch this space for anyone with a 61 or GXL or VX.....diesel. Anyone with a white lightning, you're despicable!
 
G'day mate, I am keen on doing a similar rebuild / turbo to my 2H. From what you have done to yours what is a rough estimate of the cost of the re-build doing most of the work yourself, and the cost of adding a turbo/intercooler and associated extras? My car is still unregistered and as it only cost $500, I'm wanting to keep it on a tight budget! Yours is looking great - can't wait to see the power of it once complete!!
 
Been kinda busy lately, so haven't got a heap done as far as getting this turbo on, Made a wastegate actuator bracket for the turbo, and knurled the adjustment rod on the lathe...just because lol






and also devised a plan for getting more diesel in when it comes on boost.
I started with a Kinugawa waste-gate actuator, as these are billet aluminium and easier to adapt to my needs, can be pulled apart and gives me the option of changing the spring.
My first attempt was with a standard style pressed steel wastegate actuator, but once i cut it open i had no way of sealing it and reassembling.

waste-gate actuators have a rod that push's out when positive pressure is applied to the the diapram, the exact opposite of what we want, so i had to do some mods to make it all work, fortunately I have access to a metal lathe at work, which kinda makes this doable. I havent done much lathe work, so this was a good project to get me a little experience

what I started with



I machined up a boss from mild steel, this will eventually have a thread cut on it so it screws in place of the 2H fuel screw



heres the diapram and piston, i had to reverse how it works, so i punched a hole through the silicon diapram and machined a new rod with a M6 thread, this pokes through a washer on the other side to seal it against the silicon diapram





The rod was machined up 2 include 2 o'rings, because im applying pressure to that side of the diapram it needs to be sealed



then i drilled 2 holes for M6 studs and a hole through the centre for the rod



I machined up a back plate so that i can use a M8 adjuster bolt, which will eventually allow me to increase the spring tension....just need to machine up a plate to go inside against the back side of the spring



and here it is just about finished







Still need to cut the thread on the shaft, does anyone know what thread the fuel screw is on the 2H? I havent pulled it out yet, at a guess it looks like a M12 1.5mm??
 
Crick60 said:
Love your work mate, love your workshop more though! Shed envy!

You're doing pretty much the same as turbo glide does with that manifold, they just use a off the shelf cast manifold but as long as your welds have penetrated (who cares what they look like) she'll be right. Turbo glide run the T28 as well and the high mount makes all the difference, just trying working on the 12ht C26 vs a high mount T28 and you'll appreciate one of the few mods that exist in 60's that Toyota could've done better the first time, not taking anything away from the 12ht here folks.

Awesome work keeping another 60 alive, it's hard for blokes to hear in this scene that these things are becoming rare in good shape and are climbing in value closely behind the HJ47. 10 years time anyone who's over modded their prized 60 will be scratching their head trying to figure out why there beloved isn't fetching $20k like all the other near originals.

I just spoke to a bloke who was trying to get $15k for his lifted turbo'd HJ47 and couldn't understand why his rig was in as good condition as another one that just sold for $25k with no rust no mods and low kms and he couldn't get an offer over $10k.
Watch this space for anyone with a 61 or GXL or VX.....diesel. Anyone with a white lightning, you're despicable!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words!
 
Silveredition said:
G'day mate, I am keen on doing a similar rebuild / turbo to my 2H. From what you have done to yours what is a rough estimate of the cost of the re-build doing most of the work yourself, and the cost of adding a turbo/intercooler and associated extras? My car is still unregistered and as it only cost $500, I'm wanting to keep it on a tight budget! Yours is looking great - can't wait to see the power of it once complete!!
Click to expand...

Engine rebuild cost around $1600, cant remember the exatct break down, but my injectors had already been done, injector pump seemed fine, so there two biggish ticket items i didnt have done...the original head had cracks in it, so i sourced a good second had one through ELS in adelaide. The head is just a slapper, lapped the valves, new welsh plugs, guide seals precomb's and a shave....

the turbo kit, $700 for turbo (I bought the turbo a few years back for another project mind you), $50 for steam pipe, T25 flange and dump flange
oil and water lines, probably another $100, intercooler $250, Miscellaneous s***e, another $300 say, adds up, but should be good.
Thanks for the kind words!
 
Been working on my boost compensator
I machined up a spring plate to go inside the housing and made a thumb screw to adjust the spring preload. I also cut the spring and modified it, it now starts to open at 3psi and the screw will increase the opening pressure, will see how it goes, I may need to get another weaker spring. for testing ive been using a syringe and a pressure guage. Now i Just need to bore a hole through the middle of the thumb screw so i can tap a 6mm thread for a long grub screw, which will be the adjustment for the maximum fuel, Basically just a stopper for the piston inside. Still need to cut a thread for the shaft to mount on the injector pump, but i need to buy a Die, I cant work out the thread cutting gearing on the Hercus Lathe, just dont have the experience yet.



 
Hey Aussies...Im here in PA. If you need anything stateside I will look around for you. Fosters , Australian for Piss :)
 
GarethsSixty said:
Been working on my boost compensator
I machined up a spring plate to go inside the housing and made a thumb screw to adjust the spring preload. I also cut the spring and modified it, it now starts to open at 3psi and the screw will increase the opening pressure, will see how it goes, I may need to get another weaker spring. for testing ive been using a syringe and a pressure guage. Now i Just need to bore a hole through the middle of the thumb screw so i can tap a 6mm thread for a long grub screw, which will be the adjustment for the maximum fuel, Basically just a stopper for the piston inside. Still need to cut a thread for the shaft to mount on the injector pump, but i need to buy a Die, I cant work out the thread cutting gearing on the Hercus Lathe, just dont have the experience yet.



Click to expand...
How did this boost compensator work out for you? I'm in the process of tuning a 2H that I just slapped a turbo on, and having a nightmare of a time with the fuel delivery. I'm getting the typical scenario of too much fuel off the line and not enough at the higher rpms.
 
Works really well! I ended up with adjusting the spring tension so extra fuel starts at 5psi and I also screwed the compensator in 1/4 of a turn richer than the factory fuel screw adjustment for the base adjustment. I'm running a .82 exhaust so needed a little excess diesel down the bottom to spool a little harder. I'm getting 700km to a tank mixed driving. If I'm really giving it a hard time economy drops down to 600kms. When driving I can see a puff of smoke if I nail it and the compensator kicks in suddenly but it cleans up instantly. Ive been running 15psi and pump really doesn't seem capable of supplying any more fuel.
 
A few pics

20151130_085032.webp


20151130_085045.webp


20151130_085032.webp
 
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