My fix for the ever-elusive hatch struts (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I did both of our trucks today. If I were to do it again I'd use the shorter struts- on one truck the spoiler supports just touch the roof edge, and on the other truck the hatch edge contacts the roof edge at one corner. That truck has been in a serious accident and the hatch isn't perfectly aligned, so that result probably isn't typical. Still, I'd like some room at the spoiler support, and never really had any issues with the opening height of the hatch- just wanted more, like any good American. :D Both trucks took a total of about an hour, using jamb nuts I picked up at the local Ace- forgot to order those with the struts.
 
So looking at: Lift Supports Systems | Hood | Window | Trunk | Hatch | Auto Parts By Lou

it appears that for the set of direct fit rear lift AND hood struts would run about $105.00.

Looks like a project for the coming weekend!

Bill

Bill -

I ordered from the same place. My tailgate does have some sound deadening in it, so it probably weighs a few pounds more than stock. The LiftSUpportDepot struts would not push the tailgate the entire way up (all but the last 4" or so). I contacted LSD and they sent out another pair (VERY good customer service). But the second pair was only marginally better. The supports may be fine and it might just be the sound deadening - who knows. BUt I ended up getting the lifts from McMaster Carr and am very happy.

I still have the lifts from LSD. I didn't send them back because the guy at LSD (Lou?) was quite helpful and I'm not sure whether they are weaker or it is due to the sound deadening. Anyway, if you feel like taking a drive up to PW County, you can see if they work for you. If so you can have them cheap (I dunno, $20?). They're just sitting in my garage.
 
Just came in from the cold installing the McMaster solution. Pretty easy and straight forward for a non-OEM installation. I needed to grind down the lower mounting nut to clear the body, but that took all of 5 minutes. The swivel joints separate easily by removing the spring clip and a bench vise and angle grinder made very short work of it all.

FWIW these are way stronger than OEM. Love it. With the combination of these and my new hood prop-rod from Mot, I'm hoping my noggin receives less bruises.
 
working on mine right now, just have to wait and go to ace tomorrow and pick up some nuts and do a little grinding and i'll be set. thanks for the great pics and order info gabepari:cheers:
 
On a slightly unrelated note, I got the hood struts from liftsupportdepot (along with rear struts for the wife's pathfinder hatch and glass) and they were ok. Strong lifting power on the hood, which raises itself now :D

You do have to put on some different bits, as the LSD stuff isn't OEM, and obviously they have to make some parts universal, so you do re-use some fittings from stock and put in different ones to make it all work, but they fit in all applications and function.

As for the rear struts, I'm glad I did the mcmaster stuff, it is still working great and just feels right.
 
Just got my new struts from the same folks Doug used, gasstrutguys@bigpond.com. Total cost to my door was $76.21.

Order placed on 1/27, order shipped on 1/28, arrived at my house in Phoenix on Feb 4.

Going on my truck shortly.


GB
 
update, installed mine on friday, did not have to grind the bolts down at all, the top one that mounts to the hatch i left sticking out a small amount(no need for grinding and the bottom bolt i just placed 4 washers on the inside of the mount and that worked out so i didn't have to grind at all, over all nice cheap fix
 
Just received my struts from McMaster and maybe I am just a wimp, but I can not get them to compress by hand. I am afraid to push too hard on them and end up breaking something. I do not have them installed yet, just opened the box.

What am I doing wrong? Will they compress once I have them mounted and the angle and force of the hatch will compress them?

Thanks,

Riley
 
They are rated at 70# each. You're gonna have to push pretty hard.

I have the ones listed as 90 lbs. and it feels like they will break if I put much more weight on them (I am 6'1" and svelte 240 lbs.).

I am just going to install them tonight and if there is anything wrong, just live without struts until I get it sorted out.

Riley
 
I couldn't compress mine by hand. It almost felt like it had to break a "seal" or something on first compression. Just install them!
 
I couldn't compress mine by hand. It almost felt like it had to break a "seal" or something on first compression. Just install them!

Beautiful! That was what I was hoping. Just started thinking about drilling out the factory brackets and then I'd have 2 struts that would not go down and end up looking like Fast & Furious with the "wing" in the back.

Thanks and I will report back the final results. I plan to do it tonight and if anyone wants pictures of any particular step of the process, let me know and I'll have my son snap photos as I go (although this seems about as complicated as changing your air filter).

Thanks for the feedback!

Riley
 
Huge thanks to the OP for posting this! Installed last night, took about an hour. Observations:

-Find a bench vise (it would be hard to hold the brackets by hand).

-Find a pole or board about 43" long to prop up the liftgate from the open tailgate. I was surprised when unbolting one side just how heavy the liftgate is (was unbolting one handed and holding the liftgate up with the other hand).

-I drilled out the old struts starting with a 5/16" bit and then had to open the hole on the factory brackets with a 3/8" bit so the threaded ball joint ends would fit.

-I did all cutting/grinding of excess threads with a Dremel w/ a cutting disc & sanding paddle (I think that is what it is called - it looks like a paddle boat wheel with 80 grit sandpaper).

-Follow pr0ject42's lead and order the slim nuts (item# 90257A045) from McMaster. I did only a small amount of sanding on the nuts and it fit perfectly once the excess threads are removed.

-Besides a drill + bits, dremel + grinding cutting bits you will need a 10mm socket or wrench/spanner and a 1/2" + 9/16" wrench/spanner (the standard sizes are for the strut joint end / 5/16" nuts.

The liftgate does open higher (for me that is definitely an upgrade) and feel like new. :princess: was very, very happy!

Thanks again to all that came up with this, especially gabepari! If you are ever in the Bend, OR area look me up (even if you don't drink beer, I owe you a lunch at one of the Brew Pubs)!

:cheers: Riley
 
Last edited:
Okay, this mod is absolutely amazing!!

Thank you Gabe!

I used the longer McMaster struts.

Drilled out the old ones with 3/16 bit, then chased with step drill bit to 3/8. The step drill bit leaves smooth edges, so no filing necessary.

The studs on my struts were a little long for the lower attach point.

I did not want to mess with cutting or grinding and having to chase threads.

I put a slim nut and a lock washer on the outside and a slim nut on the inside, perfect!

I used a slim nut and lock washer on the top attachment.

I am 6’1” and have caught my temple on the corner of the upper hatch on a couple of occasions.

This thing is now a couple of inches above my head with a ball cap on!

I do have a rear spoiler, it’s mounts just touch when full open, nothing to do damage.
 
Just finished mine with the McMaster 90lb longer strut. I ordered these thin stainless hex nuts for about $4 that eliminated the grinding. One on each side of the hole fixes it. I have about 1/8" clearance on the spoiler arms. Great Mod!!
IMG00086-20100322-1851.jpg
 
y'all better put some loctite on those threads!!!
 
elusive struts

I'm trying to solve this problem as well. The SUSPA struts are $90 each on their website. Anyone else try this solution.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom