My first attempt with a tune up

GeoRoss

 
 
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Hello All,
I just received from Dan a new set of wires, spark plugs, dist. cap & rotor, air filter, rad. cap, thermostat & O-ring, and PCV valve & grommet.

I plan on doing this tomorrow and have the FSM and done a few searches already. I have already been given advice, but have several questions:

1. How much dielectric grease do I apply, just a thin coating to the plug and do I need to grease the connector to the dist. cap?

2. Is installation of the new rotor straight forward? The FSM is a bit vague and I didn't even know what it looked like until I got the part.

3. Is installation of the new PCV valve straight forward? The FSM is a bit vague.

4. I know it is a good idea to check the plug gap, but how often are they mis-gapped? How careful do I need to be in 'closing the gap' if it is too big?

I have been given advice about disconnection of the air filter assembly as it is easy to break. Idaho Doug also told me about a dust catchment to clean as well. I also found in my searches that people that after a tune up the idle can be high due to the ECM having to relearn its stuff. I also came across someone disturbing the throttle body assembly, which led to high RPM's. I am a bit nervous so please bear with me and my ignorance. I hope there will not be any need for real-time panic posts tomorrow.

Thanks

Ross
 

cruiserdan

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I have never used dielectric grease. The OEM plugs are pre-gapped at .8mm (.031 inch) and are always right on unless you drop them..:eek: The rotor is indexed in such a manner as it only goes on one way. The ECM only "re-learns" if the power has been disconnected (doesn't happen with a standard tune-up). In regard to the PCV valve, remove the hose, remove the valve with a pair of pliers (apt to be stubborn) and then remove the old grommet. Installation is the reverse. Take a bit of engine oil off of the end of the dipstick and lubricate the new grommet. Install the grommet in the valve cover and then take a bit of engine oil and lubricate the PCV valve and install it in the grommet. Then reattach the hose and you are done...:D


D-
 

Scamper

 
 
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GeoRoss said:
Hello All,
I just received from Dan a new set of wires, spark plugs, dist. cap & rotor, air filter, rad. cap, thermostat & O-ring, and PCV valve & grommet.

I plan on doing this tomorrow and have the FSM and done a few searches already. I have already been given advice, but have several questions:

1. How much dielectric grease do I apply, just a thin coating to the plug and do I need to grease the connector to the dist. cap?
I don't use it myself, but use a little silicone spray to ease putting the plugs onto the dizzy and spark plugs; it also makes for a more watertight seal. If you use dielectric, I wouldn't get too carried away with it.

2. Is installation of the new rotor straight forward? The FSM is a bit vague and I didn't even know what it looked like until I got the part.
You really can't go wrong with this. Once you have the cap off, you just pull off the old and push on the new. It can only go on one way.

3. Is installation of the new PCV valve straight forward? The FSM is a bit vague.
Intallation is straightforward; removal of the old one can be interesting. If you haven't already, you may want to search on the various techniques for pulling the old one off without loosing the o-ring into the valve cover.

4. I know it is a good idea to check the plug gap, but how often are they mis-gapped? How careful do I need to be in 'closing the gap' if it is too big?
I always check them, and in all the years I've been working on cars/trucks, I don't recall ever finding them all gapped properly. On the other hand...many guys just throw them in as they come. For the extra five minutes it will take you, check them and set them properly. Setting them is easy. Don't bang hard or exert pressure on the ceramic or center electrode--just push/pull the outer electrode; it doesn't take a lot of force to move it the small amount you'll need to.

I have been given advice about disconnection of the air filter assembly as it is easy to break. Idaho Doug also told me about a dust catchment to clean as well. I also found in my searches that people that after a tune up the idle can be high due to the ECM having to relearn its stuff. I also came across someone disturbing the throttle body assembly, which led to high RPM's. I am a bit nervous so please bear with me and my ignorance. I hope there will not be any need for real-time panic posts tomorrow.

Thanks

Ross
For a standard tuneup as you've described above, you'll not be disturbing any of the TB connections or parts, so you shouldn't have difficulty with this. Just be careful with the TB hose as Doug likely told you. On the other hand, since this is a new-to-you truck, IMO you may want to pull the TB and do a thorough cleaning if the PO didn't provide you with any evidence that it had been done recently.

:cheers:

Edit: damn that CDan is quick.
 
Last edited:

GeoRoss

 
 
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Thanks Dan and Scamper for the info, its those small things (oil on the gasket, etc) that I don't know about. Thanks again.

One last question, in the FSM they show an interesting tool for removing spark plugs, a T shaped tool w/ the socket on the long arm. Does this tool make it easier to remove plugs? Thanks


Ross
 

CharlieS

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I have a rachet that I purchased when I was into porsches. Two of the cylinders were akward to reach since they were under the package shelf of the 911. I have a t-shaped rachet that allowed me to change plugs. Probably very similar (but I haven't looked at the tool you are describing to be sure).

I got mine form a porsche suppplier (Automotion) but you can probably get them most anyplace.

The one thing about the tool design is that it is tough to get much torque on it. Not such a big problem with spark plugs, but trying to loosen other fasteners at that ange isn't very easy if you need a lot of torque.

I think it was called a sidewinder, but if you need me to I can try to dig it up and check for you. Let me know.

Back to my :beer: :beer:

Charlie
 

Onur

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Hey Ross--

Just a suggestion about the PCV valve. Be careful of the grommet. As you can see from this thread, I had some fun removing the old bits that crumbled into the valve cover. :rolleyes: Luckily, there is a small shield/metal wall that keeps all the bits basically right underneath the opening...tweezers work well, thin pliers will work well too if you drop some pieces in. Here's the thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=39609

This next thread is good to see how frustrated I was...of course, everyone laughed and gave me hell!! ;)

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=39079

On the topic of spark plugs, once you get the small plastic cover off, you will see them all lined up. #6 all the way to the rear is a pain the butt to get out. I basically pushed the heater valve housing back as far as I could to get the 5/8" spark plug socket in there...I also used two 10" extensions taped together with duct tape to get the plug all the way in there (kudos to Bailey for suggesting this real-time), considering the awkward angle--I was literally in the engine bay(kinda a small dude, so it wasn't bad) (lots of stretching to do).

My tune up took a while because it was my first one and I was really interested in making sure things were done right and I wanted to understand the logic behind how the rig (specifically the engine) is set-up.

Good luck and have fun!
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
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Ross,
I have used diodelectric greas for a few things, but not for spark plugs... Just some sort of anti seize(forget the name of what I use..) Cap and rotor should be straight forward on the 80's. Think its 2 8mm bolts that hod the cap on... The rotor should be able to be pulled of(and put on back the same way). Every spark plug that I have got has ben pre-gaped, dont think it's something you should wory about checking. Air filter, if it's like anyother 450/80 should be easy. A wing nut at the top to hold it on. Pcv valve should be easy to. Make sure to replace the groumet witht eh vavle! just did mine. Groumet was craked in many places and made it hard to remove. Almost lost one peice in thw head(o.k, so I got a 22re). Good luck!
 

GeoRoss

 
 
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Thanks for the answers Dan and bh4. I know these is all really simple stuff, I just don't want to fubar it all up.

Thanks beno for the links to your experience. I'll give Doug's technique on the PCV grommet. I wish I had ordered that hose from Dan last week, oh well.

I finished caulking the new door and window, now off the garage to tackle my first tune up. I hope it goes well, I have alot of painting to do this afternoon.

On a separate note, it rained in Tucson yesterday. The first time I have seen in rain this late in May. Perfect temps, it's cool in the 80's/90's. Have a great weekend everyone.

Ross
 

GeoRoss

 
 
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All Done!

It ended up being much easier than I thought, thanks in large part to the advice and info on mud.

The plugs came out easy. #6 was a piece of cake. I am 6'3" with monkey arms so I could reach with a small stool. The plugs were very hard to pull out though. The pictures show that the plugs were ugly and the #5 dist. cap connector had white oxidation(?) on it. I used anti-sieze and dielectric grease on the plugs. I also bought my first torque wrench and used it, yee-haw.

I put a new dist. cap and rotor on. The last pic shows a very bad picture of the rotor, very pitted and ugly.

continued...
plugs_sized.JPG
wires1_sized.JPG
rotor_sized.JPG
 

GeoRoss

 
 
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continued

I also changed out the PCV valve and grommet. Dan you were right, it was a PITA. I got it out finally. I pulled a 'beno' and let a big piece of the grommet fall in. Thanks to the posts that beno pointed me to, I didn't panic and just pulled it out. The grommet was needed to be replaced.

I don't know if this is the placebo effect or what, but I took a quick trip around the neighborhood and it runs so much better. The click-click in the low end of the FM dial went away (I suspected it would from a previous mudders experience). I am looking forward to a longer drive, maybe later.

It looks like I may need to replace the throttle cable, it is a bit cracked looking. I'll wait till August when I get back to tackle that one with the front end service. On Tuesday, I am changing all the fluids, flushing the cooling system, putting in a new thermostat and changing the PHH. Thanks for all the help guys. You all made it easy. I don't know why I was so nervous, I work on million dollar mass spectrometers at work, you'd think a simple tune-up wouldn't freak me out. Thanks again.

Ross
PCV+grommet_sized.JPG
 

Onur

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I pulled a 'beno'
That's pretty funny. Don't let Junk in on that one as he might latch onto it and then everyone, when they screw up wrenching, will say "Damn, that's beno of me..." or "friggin beno'ed this one...."

Anyway, glad things went ok Ross...Best regards.
-onur
Akron, OH :flipoff2:
 

GeoRoss

 
 
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beno said:
That's pretty funny. Don't let Junk in on that one as he might latch onto it and then everyone, when they screw up wrenching, will say "Damn, that's beno of me..." or "friggin beno'ed this one...."

Anyway, glad things went ok Ross...Best regards.
-onur
Akron, OH :flipoff2:

I thought you would like that one beno. I have a feeling this will not be the last 'beno' I pull, working on the LC.

:flipoff2:

Have a good weekend.

Ross
 

4x4CPOSEADOG

 
 
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By looking at the spark plugs picture, looks like you got a healthy engine. No carbon on those tips means you are not running rich.

Good job on your tune up. Have some :beer:
 
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I too changed my plugs, plug wires , rotor button, pcv, and filters this morning , the only problem I ran into was the #6 plug wire , the boot came apart and it took me 45 minutes to get the metal tip that broke off of the plug wire out. It was still attatched pretty good to the plug. But after crawling back there with a long pair of needle nose pliers i was able to fish it out.
 

GeoRoss

 
 
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Yikes CP, I'm glad mine went smoothy, pulling wires was sometimes tricky as I was paranoid about damaging them but nothing broke apart. The other part that gave me some thought was the air intake. All I have seen is that it is easy to crack and expensive to replace. I did get it off though.

Thanks for the plug diagnosis 4X4CPOSEDOG, makes me feel better. The cruiser definitely runs better now.

Ross
 
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so when i removed my PCV valve i ended up tearing the end of the rubber hose....

the fix... wraped it with electrical tape.... untill i can buy a hose clamp to attach... think thast ok???
 

CJF

 
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so when i removed my PCV valve i ended up tearing the end of the rubber hose....

the fix... wraped it with electrical tape.... untill i can buy a hose clamp to attach... think thast ok???
Doesn't bother me a bit.

:lol:

;)



(You're fine...)
 
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I don't know if this is the placebo effect or what, but I took a quick trip around the neighborhood and it runs so much better. The click-click in the low end of the FM dial went away (I suspected it would from a previous mudders experience). I am looking forward to a longer drive, maybe later.
The new wires have always made a big difference in overall performance on my trucks.
 
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Dan,
While the topic of a tune up is up:

From your experience; how long does a set of OEM wires last (or work efficiently) assuming no abuse,
ditto with the Distro cap and rotor?? Or, to put it another way, how many miles do you see them going without problems?

Also, have you seen any advantage to using any plug wires other than OEM, in a stock engine?

Last, ever see anyone use anything other than OEM ignition coil, with any positive results?

Thanks
G
 
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