My Damn Truck (1 Viewer)

GLTHFJ60

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I have successfully managed to screw up my truck again.

I was driving along, smooth as ice, and it died. It seemed like it lost all fuel like the last time that it broke down, but it would not start again. Quite a long story later, I got it started again, except it was on the verge of stalling. I needed to keep my foot on the gas to keep it going.

It gets worse.....

After a half mile, it would idle, but only roughly. The wierdest part is that when I pressed on the brakes, it would idle smoothly. Even better if I slammed on them. WTF is wrong?!?!?!?

Fuel float?

:beer:
 
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you know i had this problem to. but it was right after an adjustment to the carb. i leaned it out to much but all my s*** kind of sticks so it takes it a couple miles sometimes to notice what you really did to the damn thing. mine was just to lean. had to open the choke halfway just to limp it home and and adjust it again. ran fine after that.
dont know if thats relevant to you. but maybe you had a butterfly stuck open or something
 
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Cap off the vacuum line at the manifold that goes to the brake booster. Does it run better and idle properly? If so, you have a leaking booster.
 

GLTHFJ60

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I'll try that. I didn't think about the brake booster being leaky. My thought on that was that the negative g-forces made the fuel come to the pickup in the float bowl if the float was stuck.

I'll try the brake booster though.

:beer:
 
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Just to throw another idea at you (although I'd go for the brake booster one first), possible fuel pump problem? You hit the brakes and the extra surge assists the poor pump.

As I said, probably not, but just in case it's not the booster. What made me think of it is that my cruiser can stall if I am reversing and hit the brakse hard (also steep hills can cause it to stall).
In my case it may be the injector pump (diesel).
 
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chitown40 said:
Cap off the vacuum line at the manifold that goes to the brake booster. Does it run better and idle properly? If so, you have a leaking booster.
I'll second that.

You can also look for fluid leaks around the floorboard near where the brake pedal connects. If your master cyl is leaking, it'll screw up the booster and will leak back into the cab.

It's worth a look - you'll have the MC loose if and when you have to pull the booster anyway - go ahead and replace the MC if it's bad. (you can get a new OEM MC from Liquid Offroad for $59 - and they have a booster rebuild deal.)
http://www.liquidoffroad.com/mastercylinders.php
http://www.liquidoffroad.com/brakebooster.php

There are other options out there, of course...
 

GLTHFJ60

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Unfortunately, my weekend has been too blury to be able to do any wrenching on my rig to try that out. I will try to evaluate that route sometimes this week though.

It better not be my fuel pump, because I just replaced it!!!

Any info on the problem being my carb?

:beer:
 
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This saga goes on forever and I dont envy you. I would take the fuel pick up out of the tank and check everything inside after emptying the tank.

Disconnect the fuel lines at the filter and blow air through them from the fuel pickup.
Also check the fuel vent back to the charcoal canister

If its ok then move onto the engine bay back to the carb.

Is there fuel in the carb window when it dies?
 
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Pull a plug when it dies & smell it for fuel. If it's stinky, you've got an ignition problem. If it's dry, you have a fuel problem. Has to be one or the other.
 

GLTHFJ60

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That I will do. Thanks tinker.

As for the fuel tank, I would really rather not have to take it down. I know that I will have to eventually, but I would rather wait until I can buy another tank for that project.

I will check that brake booster and the plugs and I will get back to your guys.

:beer:
 
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GLTHFJ60 said:
That I will do. Thanks tinker.

As for the fuel tank, I would really rather not have to take it down. I know that I will have to eventually, but I would rather wait until I can buy another tank for that project.

I will check that brake booster and the plugs and I will get back to your guys.

:beer:
You dont have to drop the tank. 60 series have an inspection plate in the rear floor above the tank for inspecting the fuel lines and fuel tank.

I was wondering if there was something floating around in the tank occasionally blocking the pickup.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Well, I figured out what the problem is; GREMLINS.

They have gotten into my engine and screw it up whenever they feel like it.

So I went out to the truck and decided that I'd start by starting it. I was amazed when it fired right up. I took it for a test run of about 5 miles, and it ran perfectly the entire time. I was dumbfounded.

Back at the house, I let it idle for about 15 min and then turned the idle back down to 650 rpm's, and it still ran perfectly. No hiccups or nothing. I figured I'd better take a vacuum measurement, and it read 17 inches of mercury at 650 rpms, which is perfect.

Translated, I have no idea what went wrong, but it is fine now. Sometimes I hate this truck.

:beer:
 

GLTHFJ60

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REALLY????? I didn't know about this plate. Just pick up the carpet and check things out?!?

THAT"S GREAT NEWS!!!!

:beer:
 
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since it's purring along now i doubt this is the issue, but some of it sounds like the fusible link. When mine went it ran really rough, and would die if i didn't keep the rpms up. It takes two seconds to check. Right off the positive batt term green and white ends with 3 wires in between. I now carry a spare in the glove box just in case.

Good luck!

rob
 

GLTHFJ60

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How do I check it? I know where it is, but how do you check it?

:beer:
 
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if it's blown you will know. mine was nearly slag at the inside ends at the connectors. one side will blow and disconnect. just check the 3 wires. connected and flexible is good. sometimes they are old and stiff w/ the cloth sleeves brittle - still it should be good. 40$ part - ouch, but not bad to have a spare.

rob
 

GLTHFJ60

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Definately. I'm planning on doing a host of things before the winter. I'll add that to my list. Thanks bud!

:beer:
 

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