my 86 22re 5speed 1stGen 4Runner

[Devilmans Hand]

The PO included new front fenders with the sale, but I've been toying with the idea of chopping all fenders so I can get rid of the rust and stuff my 32"MT s in there when I feel like weeling it instead of the fj40. Was thinking about making some flat flares similiar to what Sebastian,H2O, did out of yard vinyl and aluminum. I dunno yet though cause I like my side panel storage areas.

I've been looking for an extra set of minitruck springs to pull apart and add some leaves to my pack, but just haven't found any for cheap enough. I've seen That everyone recommends the long add a leafs, but they're only worth about a years time.
I'd like to use my rig more like a truck, so the extra load capacity is highly valued. That's also why I'm considering the zuk mod since I can swap out different springs easily and quickly to tailor the rear suspension for the daily activity.
Maybe ill do a combo with an add a leaf and light duty coil spring.

I'm too cheap to get new rear leafs. They'd cost almost as much as I paid for the truck.

 

[Thornton]

Sam, I've got a set of springs for a Tacoma. Measure the width of yours and you may be able to use these to do what you're wanting to. I put Chevy overloads under my '96 Tacoma, a grinder works wonders.

 

[76FJ40]

Think antique tags - no inspection hassles

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Sam, I've got a set of springs for a Tacoma. Measure the width of yours and you may be able to use these to do what you're wanting to. I put Chevy overloads under my '96 Tacoma, a grinder works wonders.

Will do.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Think antique tags - no inspection hassles

I hadn't even thought about that. I kept forgetting that it's an antique.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Sam, I've got a set of springs for a Tacoma. Measure the width of yours and you may be able to use these to do what you're wanting to. I put Chevy overloads under my '96 Tacoma, a grinder works wonders.

Looks like they're 2 1/4" wide

 

[Thornton]

Looks like the springs I have will work. You can have them.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Awesome. Just let me know when to swing by.

Thanks Tom.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

so i've got a whole mess of other parts now ready to install.
sr5 cluster
skyjacker springs from Tom that i need to pull apart
home made rear bumper with tow package. But i think i'll need to modify my frame to make it fit.
pair of extra aisin hubs. maybe slap those on the fj40?

and more importantly a newish side sliding window for the one i broke yesterday.

does anyone have any tips for replacing the sliding side glass on the hardtop? some people in the minitruck section suggested just swapping out the window frame, but i'd rather just pop in a new piece of glass if it slides out somehow instead of having to mess with black window seal goo.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

4runner side window replacement - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

So it looks like I do have to take the entire window frame out, separate the outer and inner pieces, then put new glass in.
Rtv or this butyle tape?

 

[Devilmans Hand]

so i got the window figured out. it was only slightly a PITA

if anyone was curious...

remove the plastic trim.
remove the flexible window trim.

you'll get a view kind of like this one.

next you'll have to cut/push the butyl tape, or the black goo, holding the window frame to the fiberglass. I used my leatherman blade.

If you're lucky, you'll find the little piece of string embedded in the tape to help cut the seal.

once you've cut all away around the window seal you can now start to pry up the window frame. I started at the lower rear corner.

keep peeling, but be sure not to bend/break anything else!

be sure not to let the whole assembly just plop out on the driveway!


empty hole.

this is what the window frame looks like, sans one piece of glass...

now that its all out, you can start cursing.
clean up the mating services with a razor and some scotch brite. It scrapes pretty easily.

remove the metal exterior "L trim" piece. There are 5 or so sheet metal screws holding it on from the backside.

There are two silver screws on the frame holding a bar in place between the window glass. They're hidden under some rubber trim.

I didn't take any pix of removing the glass, but will insert the fsm sheets here

This part is the PITA.

you need to stand the frame upward, as it sits in the 4runner, and slide the glass towards the center. put your feet inside the frame, between the glass and the frame. Pull upwards from the top of the frame while pushing inside to outside on the smaller piece of glass. I put a little cushion to catch the falling glass so it wouldn't break. Use the same technique for the metal cross bar, and then for the bigger piece of glass.
Install is the reverse.

This is were i had to stop b/c of the rain.
I couldn't find butyl tape in the correct thickness, so i had the parts guy get me a 3m product. Black gooey calking strips. I'll post part # later.

 

[Land Shark]

forget the window and just go topless

 

[Devilmans Hand]

forget the window and just go topless

in the summer months sure thing, right when you find your old top!

 

[SAS]

Good job, Sam and good description--the pictures make it all make sense! Keep up the motivation.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

HOOAH.
Thank you Sir.

I noticed a bunch of other stuff I need to fix before winter hits.
My cv boots are all ripped up, clutch leaks, need new rubber brake lines and maybe a cylinder somewhere cause the brakes suck.


But I have heat!

 

[cuteo100]

I can see it looking like this in the near future!

 

[Von Hayek]

You are an ambitious man.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

The bumper I picked up has a spindle on it for a swing out carrier. I've always liked the idea of the little gas grill on there.

The tailgate pannel got all messed up this weekend, so I'm going to replace the carpeted pannel for some 14gauge stainless steel sheet I have.
I want to install an inverter big enough to run power tools off of too.
I've been toying with the idea of building a cargo box/platform for the rear, but want to source lightweight materials. Maybe fiberglass over metal screen. Wood is cheap and easy, but I like fiberglass reinforced mesh too.
A roof rack would be nice. Kinda wish I didn't throw mine away from the 40.

I'd also like to get some lower gears for the t-case. Only $500 or so.

Trailgear sliders at $200 to my door and some underbody armor would be nice.
The gas tank hangs down low.

The fridge would be cool, but I'd never use it. I like MREs and get them free/cheap.

I'd like to figure out some rifle/bow storage. I thought about utilizing the side storage pannels, but its kind of a PITA.

ah...one vehicle at a time.

*edit
I had forgotten about replacing the valve cover gasket, adjusting the valve lash, checking the timing chain for play and wear, and changing all my vacuum lines with the silicone stuff. May as well rip off the intake and clean it out. then deckplate mod to the airbox, and maybe extend an optional snorkel from the airbox into the cabin for all those water crossings i don't do, then reseal my exhaust at the manifold down flange since it leaks, replace the back-up light switch( that i've had for months), ...

 

[Land Shark]

FYI on the valve cover gasket pay close attention to the very rear of it closest to the cab. Years ago I replaced mine and about half way through my trip things started to come out of it. Not a good feeling.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

so i've been perusing craigslist and picked up ($35) a big receiver mounted cargo carrier that is maybe 5'x3' and intend to adapt it into a roof rack basket.
It will likely be center axis mounted for proper weight distribution and allow for hanging of tools off the sides like a shovel or axe. i think a hi-lift will be too heavy up there, and thus will need mounting on the rear bumper swing out carrier(to be built another day)

I want to mount it on top the fiberglass, and if you're familiar with 1st gen 4runners you'll know that there are no factory roof rack load bars or steel gutters up there of any kind.

I've seen others drill holes directly into the roof and install nutserts with great success. Apply some weatherseal and i shouldn't have any leaks. I'll prob use a full length rubber gasket too, likely innertube or cable/wire insulation.
I want to do this and use these superstruts from home depot to run the full length of the fiberglass to use as a base for loadbars along the width of the fiberglass. I'm thinking at least two to three- driverside/center/passengerside.
1 5/8 in. Wide x 13/16 in. High x 10 ft. Long, 12 Gauge Metal Framing Channel, Gold Galvanized-ZB1400HS 10 at The Home Depot

or a bit taller
1-5/8 in. x 10 ft. Metal Framing Channel-ZA1200HS 10 at The Home Depot

Install will be flat slide along the hardtop surface with the slot directed upwards.

I figure that this will be a cost effective method, and i can easily and cheaply mount the rack to the bars.This also allows me an easy way to adapt the bars for different types of mounts with simple hardware.
such as
1-1/2 in. Universal Clamp-Z703 2-25 at The Home Depot

The gold galvanized makes everything bling bling to match my factory chrome trim!

On the front cabbin roof section i'd like to mount a lightweight plastic storage box, not unlike the xterra lock boxes with a home made wind deflector, maybe some lights, and some limb risers going down to the hood area mounted to some kayak straps like these below, until i figure out some kind of modified front winch bumper.

I haven't decided if i want to use a clamp on guttermount type load bar(since i have some just on the metal roof section) or go ahead and drill some holes and install some nutserts in the metal roof too.

I'm thinkin that this will be a job after i get some to get over drilling into a perfectly good and complete roof!