My 75 series ute rebuild
- Thread starter 75Ute
- Start date
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maat
yeah nah maybe
nice! practical!
Windscreen Rubbers
Nice Ute Mate! I have been watching your build with interest and have gotten some good tips. I'm in Melbourne and am about to start a 1985 Bundy, where did you get the rubber between the bottom of the windscreen and the body? I also need the rubber on top on the windscreen and the fiberglass roof, if anyone knows where I can get this rubber I would be grateful.
Nice Ute Mate! I have been watching your build with interest and have gotten some good tips. I'm in Melbourne and am about to start a 1985 Bundy, where did you get the rubber between the bottom of the windscreen and the body? I also need the rubber on top on the windscreen and the fiberglass roof, if anyone knows where I can get this rubber I would be grateful.
- Thread starter
- #126
Thanks Browndog11. I only bought the rubbers for the windscreen and the doors and I got them from www.allfourx4.com.au . Good luck with the build, look forward to some pictures.Nice Ute Mate! I have been watching your build with interest and have gotten some good tips. I'm in Melbourne and am about to start a 1985 Bundy, where did you get the rubber between the bottom of the windscreen and the body? I also need the rubber on top on the windscreen and the fiberglass roof, if anyone knows where I can get this rubber I would be grateful.
g'day there 75 ute another aussie here. dont get to the 70 page much usually hang out with the vintage guys just found your thread this morn, good work you are doing; though havent had time to read in its entirety yet. if you dont mind me asking i was just wondering what you may have paid for the replacement tub?
Just curious, did you not like the grill in its original black color?
Look'in good, are you happy with the way it drives?
- Thread starter
- #134
Hi, I've wired up my new IPF 900 XS driving lights but not sure which wire on the back of the passenger side headlight to use for electro tap as per picture attached.
The connector on the back of the light has three wires labeled ground, drive and pass.
Ground is red and blue
Drive is red and yellow
Pass is red and green
So not sure if I should use drive or pass?
I've read elsewhere that you should use the low beam wire and other places the high beam wire. Any help gratefully received.
The connector on the back of the light has three wires labeled ground, drive and pass.
Ground is red and blue
Drive is red and yellow
Pass is red and green
So not sure if I should use drive or pass?
I've read elsewhere that you should use the low beam wire and other places the high beam wire. Any help gratefully received.
- Thread starter
- #135
Here's another picture of the connector that goes on the back of the light. I dropped into ARB and they said to use a test light to see which wire was live when the high beam was on. I went and bought a test light and the results were as follows:
When headlights are on the Ground and the Drive wires are live.
When I turn on the main beam the Ground remains live and the Drive wire goes dead.
The pass wire is never live.
I'm guessing if I connect the wire from the driving lights to the Ground wire they will come on with the headlights instead of the main beam?
Confused??!
When headlights are on the Ground and the Drive wires are live.
When I turn on the main beam the Ground remains live and the Drive wire goes dead.
The pass wire is never live.
I'm guessing if I connect the wire from the driving lights to the Ground wire they will come on with the headlights instead of the main beam?
Confused??!
Wiring driving lights
The power to activate the driving lights must come from the wire the that livens up when the high beam is on. The driving lights can not come on with the low beam (its Illegal).
I haven't done one of these for a while but it I remember rightly, all the headlight wire does is switch the relay to turn on the driving lights. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Have you looked on YouTube to see if someone has a video on it.
By the way, do yourself a favor and through that red scotch lock as far away as you can from your vehicle and forget you even know they exist. There are evil pieces of plastic that will cause you no end of trouble. Solder all your wires, and use flux even when using solder with flux in the middle.
The power to activate the driving lights must come from the wire the that livens up when the high beam is on. The driving lights can not come on with the low beam (its Illegal).
I haven't done one of these for a while but it I remember rightly, all the headlight wire does is switch the relay to turn on the driving lights. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Have you looked on YouTube to see if someone has a video on it.
By the way, do yourself a favor and through that red scotch lock as far away as you can from your vehicle and forget you even know they exist. There are evil pieces of plastic that will cause you no end of trouble. Solder all your wires, and use flux even when using solder with flux in the middle.
- Thread starter
- #137
Thanks Browndog, The only problem is the wires don't go live when the main beam is on but one goes off. I've heard about some vehicles having negative activation but stuff I've read has said that the 75's are not wired this way. I've been meaning to go back to ARB but have been too busy at work. Will dump the red connector, you're the second person to warn me off of it.
Yeah YouTube was the first place I looked but couldn't find a complete video. I was gonna make a video myself but can't do that until I figure this out.
Yeah YouTube was the first place I looked but couldn't find a complete video. I was gonna make a video myself but can't do that until I figure this out.
If the high beam comes on the wire must be live. Put your test light earth on the negative side of the battery and probe the wires going into the back of the headlight and find the one that lights up the test light when on high beam.
I don't know what you mean when you say that one goes off, one should come on and off with the high beam, that's how the driving lights switch on and off.
It should be a simple process to find the live wire when the high beam is on.
Keep trying, you'll get there.
I don't know what you mean when you say that one goes off, one should come on and off with the high beam, that's how the driving lights switch on and off.
It should be a simple process to find the live wire when the high beam is on.
Keep trying, you'll get there.
All the headlight high beam does is activate/switch the relay to send power directly from the battery to the driving lights.
You say "The only problem is the wires don't go live when the main beam is on but one goes off" you are only looking for one live wire, I'm confused when you say ONE goes off.
