My 60 is heating up in traffic jams!!

[Cruzerman]

I think pulling the radiator and taking into a shop to have it boiled out and tested is a great idea. A marginal radiator is so often the source of the problem.

 

[mrsvle]

This is not at all correct, the only reason a FJ60 overheats is some issue with the cooling system.. I would look seriously at why there was gook in the overflow tank..


You will see no difference in power with a electric fan.. And, there is more chance that it will fail..

Waste of time..

Search "overheating" in the 60 series forum. I think you will find this is a pretty common complaint.

 

[Mace]

Search "overheating" in the 60 series forum. I think you will find this is a pretty common complaint.

It is a fairly common complaint because LC's get ignored commonly by PO's..

They are amazingly easy to keep cool if everything is in proper working order.

60's run like crap when you need a carb rebuild too. It is not something that is inherent or a bad design.. A good radiator, fan clutch, thermostat and water pump will cool a 60 at idle or at 75mph on a 115* day...

 

[mrsvle]

MACE,

I'm rebuilding my engine now and though I wasn't overheating before, I will probably go with a new radiator. Any opinions on OEM vs aftermarket or aluminum vs standard? Of course I am replacing the water pump and various hoses as well.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Mace]

There are some amazing deals on stock design, aftermarket radiators. I would go that route if you have any concerns about your current radiator.. They run ~ $160 for a brand spankin new radiator.. Basically cheaper than a rod and recore of your stock radiator.. You can't beat that with a stick...


AL is nice, but there is no real reson to spend the money on it unless you are also replacing the motor with one that is harder to cool (Chevy V8 comes to mind)

My FJ60 is getting a Stock 92 F150 radiator (AL centersection and plactic tanks) but only because I am swapping a 302 into my rig..


My 40 runs a Turbocharged 2F off of propane and, unless my timing is seriously wacked.. It never gets over 180 to 190*.... With the stock radiator (actually smaler than a 60's radiator)

 

[lunyou]

Any easy way to test the fan clutch? I just noticed the same issue today, came close to the top line but dropped quick once I got moving. I have a fresh OEM Toyota 'stat in there (PO took it out for some reason) and new hoses. I am swapping the belts next and flushing the system, adding new coolant because I have the gooey smegma in the system too, noticed it in the stat housing when it was off. As long as the rest of the system is undergoing maintenance I figured I might as well test the fan clutch if it can be done while I'm at it.

there are a few ways to do it. you can take some kite string and tie it to the fan and then tie it to a fixed poin ton the truck, start the engine and when the motor heats up the fan clutch should engage breaking the kite string.

The easiest way to do it that i have found is to put some mechanics gloves on or use a shop towel. After getting the motor warm shut the truck off and after the fan stops moving grab it in a place that it can safely slip in your hands and not mess up your fingers. Have someone start it and if you can hold the fan still without much struggle you need a new clutch.

lunyou

 

[lunyou]

pvidrummer,

your situation sounds just like my Mini does. While running down the road it is fine but when not keeping the speed up it will get hot, almost to the red line.

I tested my fan clutch and it is bad. I would test your fan clutch as stated in my above post and if it is bad replace it and install a thermostat while you are at it. Then if it still doesn't fix it have the radiator worked on or buy a new one.

lunyou

 

[Mace]

The fan clutches are just a viscous coupling.. Meaning.. At low RPM's they spin with the motor, at high RPM's they spin slower than the motor. They do not turn on and off at certain temps..

Easiest way to test the fan clutch, spin it wiht the motor off. If it spins VERY easily you need to repack it or replace it. If it cannot spin at all (which would also try to rip your fingers off if you tried the "grab a hold of the fan and hold on while your buddy tried to turn it over" theory) then it is siezed and you will have a slight power loss at freeway speeds but it will still work fine.


Grab a hold of your fan and spin it. If it goes around a couple of times before it stops then you need to repack/replace it..

Strings and/or grabbing it with your hands is a recipie for disaster..

 

[lunyou]

The fan clutches are just a viscous coupling.. Meaning.. At low RPM's they spin with the motor, at high RPM's they spin slower than the motor. They do not turn on and off at certain temps..

Easiest way to test the fan clutch, spin it wiht the motor off. If it spins VERY easily you need to repack it or replace it. If it cannot spin at all (which would also try to rip your fingers off if you tried the "grab a hold of the fan and hold on while your buddy tried to turn it over" theory) then it is siezed and you will have a slight power loss at freeway speeds but it will still work fine.


Grab a hold of your fan and spin it. If it goes around a couple of times before it stops then you need to repack/replace it..

Strings and/or grabbing it with your hands is a recipie for disaster..

i think we will have to agree to disagree on this one, when i grabbed my mini fan and my wife started it it never moved, when i grabbed my wifes 4runner fan and she started it, it jerked it out of my hands and didn't hurt me no problem at all.

Not argueing with you about make up of a fan clutch but i thought it had a gel in it and as the gel heated up or cooled down it allowed the coupling to grab or let go of the fan shaft?

lunyou

 

[Mace]

i think we will have to agree to disagree on this one, when i grabbed my mini fan and my wife started it it never moved, when i grabbed my wifes 4runner fan and she started it, it jerked it out of my hands and didn't hurt me no problem at all.

Not argueing with you about make up of a fan clutch but i thought it had a gel in it and as the gel heated up or cooled down it allowed the coupling to grab or let go of the fan shaft?

lunyou

Your way is not wrong, but if the fan clutch is siezed (fan always spins at the same speed at the motor) you can cause some major damage if you are not careful.

Just a safety thing.

It is not as much a Gel but more a oil. The oil lets the fan clutch slip at higher RPM's or at speed. That way you get less parasitic power drain on the motor during acceleration. It is basicaly the same theory as flex fans. As the engine speed increases the blades of the fan flatten out reducing drag on the motor.

 

[pvidrummer]

(which would also try to rip your fingers off if you tried the "grab a hold of the fan and hold on while your buddy tried to turn it over" theory)

LOL


I think the fan clutch is good. I checked it using the methods provided by my haynes repair manual. According to them, the way to know if the fan clutch is bad is by "feeling" the resistance of the fan when the engine is cold, and later "feeling" the resistance when the engine is hot, (this is done with the engine turned off.) It says that when a fclutch is bad it will spin with less resistance when the engine is hot, leak oil, or be seized.
It also mentions that you can test it with the engine on, by stopping the fan with your bare hands while the engine is at 2,000RPM. JUST KIDDING

 

[lunyou]

Your way is not wrong, but if the fan clutch is siezed (fan always spins at the same speed at the motor) you can cause some major damage if you are not careful.

Just a safety thing.

It is not as much a Gel but more a oil. The oil lets the fan clutch slip at higher RPM's or at speed. That way you get less parasitic power drain on the motor during acceleration. It is basicaly the same theory as flex fans. As the engine speed increases the blades of the fan flatten out reducing drag on the motor.

thanks for clearing up the construction for me.....

About the safety thing.....that is the reason i suggested kite string. Not very strong incase of something either working right or unknown to my knowledge of even being possible, being seized up.

lunyou

 

[brian]

The fan clutches are just a viscous coupling.. Meaning.. At low RPM's they spin with the motor, at high RPM's they spin slower than the motor. They do not turn on and off at certain temps....

i beg to differ the bit about the oil/fluid not "locking" up the clutch at certain temps.

i can hear the fan "kick" in at times on the 40. it normally runs cool so i don't get it very often.

on my hilux it was a normal thing to hear the fan kick in(they have a fan clutch also) and out. much like hearing elec fans on every small car on the road.
there was no mistake on when it "locked" up or "unlocked".


*edit*


in fact the hynes manaul even states.

(section11 page42)
11 temperature controlled cooling fan-general
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 a two-stage temp controlled fluid coupling is used on 1977 usa and canada models

2 this similar to the other fluid couplings used for later models, expect for the bi-metal controlled oil passage valve.

3 the coupling is designed to controll fan speed at two different speeds according to radiator through-air temp.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

figure-2.9
includes a graph showing fan rpm vs fan pulley rpm compared to temp.

 

[Mace]

The click you hear is not the fan clutch. It is the fan on the carb..

The bi metal design makes no noticable noise when it engages. No does it "lock" up the fan. It is more a design to allow less drag when the temp is cooler than to "lock" up the fan when temps are hot..

 

[sixty]

the best way to tell if the clutch is bad is if there is any sign of oil coming out of the front seal. it leaks out overtime. you can go to Toyota a get the fan oil for about $20 and your clutch will work like new.

I have a friend who like to test his fan with his teeth... recomending some one grab the fan with their hands is CRAZY!!!

 

[pvidrummer]

recomending some one grab the fan with their hands is CRAZY!!!

I don't think its crazy, its just dangerous, because your hand can get caught in one of the pulleys. I have personally hand stopped my land cruiser's fan many times, and I still have my fingers intact.

 

[brian]

The click you hear is not the fan clutch. It is the fan on the carb..

The bi metal design makes no noticable noise when it engages. No does it "lock" up the fan. It is more a design to allow less drag when the temp is cooler than to "lock" up the fan when temps are hot..

there is no "click". on the pick up there was a roar, very noticable also a very noticable increase in the amount of air being moved.
on the 40 there is less fan noise but a noticable increase in air flow.

and neither truck has a carb fan.

you are wrong, the fan clutch will sorta solidly lock the fan to the fan pulley.
it's not really a solid lock, but enough drag that while the fan is spinning less than the pulley, it is turning at close to the rpm of the pulley.
when it's not engaged, fan speed is closer to 650rpm arcoss the board no matter what the pulley rpm is.
the "lock up" is dependent on temp.

 

[-VSG-]

According to them, the way to know if the fan clutch is bad is by "feeling" the resistance of the fan when the engine is cold, and later "feeling" the resistance when the engine is hot, (this is done with the engine turned off.) It says that when a fclutch is bad it will spin with less resistance when the engine is hot, leak oil, or be seized.

Good to know. My 60's been heating up lately. There is resistance when the engine is cold, but when hot it'll spin several times. Looks like I need a new fan clutch.

 

[Mace]

when does it heat up?

At idle or when driving on the Fwy?

You can repack the clutch. It is easy and not expensive..