My 2nd 100, this one from Japan!

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Yea, my driver side in LX gave out but sold as is. So this looks urgent now??? Should i buy oem boots or is there better aftermarket ones? Thank you!



Buy oem? Or aftermarket?
Haha i am not sure about a 3 banana job, have to watch some videos. How many hours would a mechanic charge? Thank you!

I don't know how urgent. It really depends how much grease remains within the boots. I recommend OEM, and I'm not aware of any better ones.

You basically need to remove the front hub to be able to pull each CV. Then you need to rebuild each one which is a dirty job. It would probably take me 1 or 2 hours to remove each CV using hand tools (others can probably do this much faster). It would then take me about 1 hour to rebuild and regrease each CV, and another hour to rebuild and retorque. I'm guessing 3 or 4 hours per side for an amateur or maybe half that time for a veteran.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I'm not sure about your lift: If it's too high compared to stock, it can cause the axles to spew grease, because of the increased angle. If that's the case, you might need a diff drop. If that is the case, your boots might not be torn, and may be reusable as well.

 

[Tareq]

I'm not sure about your lift: If it's too high compared to stock, it can cause the axles to spew grease, because of the increased angle. If that's the case, you might need a diff drop. If that is the case, your boots might not be torn, and may be reusable as well.

Yes it is because of the lift, same was with LX and i ignored it, 5km later the driver side was clunking but i think it was because of age, almost 270km!!

I didnt get a diff drop because it is highly debatable here + reduced clearance.

Yes, they are not torn, they look good, only seeping from the ends. Are you saying a mechanic can add grease back in there without replacing the boots?

I am definitely paying someone to do this

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Yes it is because of the lift, same was with LX and i ignored it, 5km later the driver side was clunking but i think it was because of age, almost 270km!!

I didnt get a diff drop because it is highly debatable here + reduced clearance.

Yes, they are not torn, they look good, only seeping from the ends. Are you saying a mechanic can add grease back in there without replacing the boots?

I am definitely paying someone to do this

Yes you can add grease. I think someone on here even did it without disassembly. Using some sort of injector and by pulling the rubber up...Unfortunately I can't find the thread, but I'll bet you can with a bit of searching.

 

[hoser]

You can try installing a regular worm drive hose clamp over the OE clamp. I did just that while on a long distance road trip. Worked for me.

 

[Tareq]

Yes you can add grease. I think someone on here even did it without disassembly. Using some sort of injector and by pulling the rubber up...Unfortunately I can't find the thread, but I'll bet you can with a bit of searching.

You can try installing a regular worm drive hose clamp over the OE clamp. I did just that while on a long distance road trip. Worked for me.

Thank you guys!
I dont have the tools or the motivation to tackle this myself so let me ask the 4x4 shop to see if he can just add grease and ask him to put a tighter clamp.

I might look at youtube videos later tonight for more insights.

 

[Kabanstva]

Yes it is because of the lift, same was with LX and i ignored it, 5km later the driver side was clunking but i think it was because of age, almost 270km!!

I didnt get a diff drop because it is highly debatable here + reduced clearance.

Yes, they are not torn, they look good, only seeping from the ends. Are you saying a mechanic can add grease back in there without replacing the boots?

I am definitely paying someone to do this

Clearance will be the same with or without a diff drop. Every skid plate system I know of for the 100 is designed around a diff drop... unless you want to keep the flimsy stock skids, there’s no reason to not do the diff drop.

 

[Tareq]

Clearance will be the same with or without a diff drop. Every skid plate system I know of for the 100 is designed around a diff drop... unless you want to keep the flimsy stock skids, there’s no reason to not do the diff drop.

interesting point about the clearance, having said that, after calculating the cost of the diff drop (converted to CND $) and in addition to the fact that it is highly debatable in the forum, I decided not to go for it.
Let me get this grease issue out of the way, and I will reevaluate

 

[Tareq]

is this crack fixable?
it sucks because I have less than 1k miles on these tires

when I park the car with the crack at 3 or 9 o'clock, I dont lose any air which is good until I get a feedback on the warranty claim.

 

[Vermont]

No, you can't generally repair sidewall punctures on tires. The tread portion of a tire has construction that is reinforced with cords around the tread aspect of the tire. That's why you can plug/patch tread area punctures. Sidewalls don't have cord reinforcement, so patches/plugs won't hold. They will leak again. If you're not losing air, then it's probably not a complete puncture, but I'd think your risk of a blowout is increased with damage through one or more of the plies.

 

[Tareq]

No, you can't generally repair sidewall punctures on tires. The tread portion of a tire has construction that is reinforced with cords around the tread aspect of the tire. That's why you can plug/patch tread area punctures. Sidewalls don't have cord reinforcement, so patches/plugs won't hold. They will leak again. If you're not losing air, then it's probably not a complete puncture, but I'd think your risk of a blowout is increased with damage through one or more of the plies.

Thank you!
It completely flat yesterday, parked at 6 oclock, I was on the trails, so I pumped it to 55psi and drove back 100km to the city, didnt lose any air, but I discovered by coincidence that at 3 and 9 oclock it doesnt lose air.

dont feel comfortable taking on the HWY again, but i see online people cover the crack with some sort of a glue or grease.

 

[neoworm]

Why don't you put the spare on? Oh let me guess. You didn't buy a matching spare.

 

[Tareq]

Why don't you put the spare on? Oh let me guess. You didn't buy a matching spare.

just ordered 2 new tires, i was hoping to find a used 1 for spare.
you said u have 18s in ur garage? what style? how much?
installing tomorrow afternoon.

 

[neoworm]

Steel Tundra rims. $50

 

[Tareq]

Steel Tundra rims. $50

Plz see DM

 

[Tareq]

Finally a full size spare now, will rotate according to the chart below every oil change, 10k miles.

275s look wider than my 285s

 

[RND1]

Thanks for sharing @Tareq. I would consider going this route for my next hundy if I could convert it to LHD. Anyone know how costly and/or difficult that is? Is there enough cost savings to do this?

 

[Tareq]

Thanks for sharing @Tareq. I would consider going this route for my next hundy if I could convert it to LHD. Anyone know how costly and/or difficult that is? Is there enough cost savings to do this?

You are welcome!
I see you are from the USA, so the earliest u can import an lc 100 with a750 like mine is 2027, by that time the vehicle will be 25 years old, not sure worth the conversion cost. U can get a 1994 80 now tho!

Honestly, driving on the RIGHT side is not as bad as many think, i was nervous when i picked it up and insisted i pick it up closer to midnight so the streets are empty haha, but in 5 minutes i was able to manage, a week later it felt normal, it felt RIGHT! My next one will be a 2016 200 jdm

Save the conversion cost and spend it on mods

 

[RND1]

@Tareq Yes, I blanked about the 25 year rule. I actually would love to bring an 80 over. Next 3 years will be interesting with the ability to bring 1995 - 1997 to the USA.

I'm thinking if it was not my DD, I wouldn't mind RHD. So I already have the 100 so an 80 might be the perfect offroad rig.

 

[Tareq]

@Tareq Yes, I blanked about the 25 year rule. I actually would love to bring an 80 over. Next 3 years will be interesting with the ability to bring 1995 - 1997 to the USA.

I'm thinking if it was not my DD, I wouldn't mind RHD. So I already have the 100 so an 80 might be the perfect offroad rig.

100 is a nice all rounder, so bring the 80 as a weekend expedition vehicle! But those 80s cost as much as the 100s from my research, and diesel always has a premium