- Thread starter
- #61
Does Slee (great company BTW) still make these for '94s? I was looking at White Knuckle Off Road... you can custom order those to angle out for more of a step.
Builds My $1k rig build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zantier
- Start date
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hamishpotter
SILVER Star
Afaik yes, but good question since their site links to sliders for 93-97, but in the individual description they are 95-97. @sleeoffroad ?
Slee - Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser Rock Sliders
Slee - Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser Rock Sliders
Do what I do.....Loaded with 50 dozen Krispy Kreme doughnuts...
View attachment 1695596
Perspective makes it look like my rear is sagging under the weight of all the fluffy goodness. I thought it was funny. Now, how do I get rid of the doughnut smell? Or Do I?
Spill beer everywhere.
- Thread starter
- #64
Updating my trailer harness to be compatible and easily connect a 4-way or 7-way flat (Hopkins 47185).
Cutting a hole in your bumper is kind of scary...
I lined up the holes with the supplied bracket, marked and drilled the screw holes and coated all the bare metal with some Rustoleum. (I don't know why MUD insists on rotating the picture)
Here's the final with stainless metal screws.
I spent a considerable amount of time this evening troubleshooting the hitch wiring. Brakes and left turn signal trailer lights did not work (this is not new). In the process I followed the harness back to the drivers rear panel and found that someone just spliced into the wires--ok, this could still work. First issue was that the old 4-way plug was just bad for the turn signal--easy fix. But what about the trailer brake lights? I tested multiple scenarios but without a hitch converter (Toyota or aftermarket) and some sketchy wire taps, I think this was a hack job. I'm going to rip that crap out and I have one of these Hopkins 43405 plug-n-play solutions ordered.
Update: after reviewing the hack job I decided that the bad 4-way plug (see the picture above) must have been a converter and adapter in one. It's sealed so I can't see what's going on in there but it's bigger and heavier than just your normal adapter. I purchased a Hopkins 48895, cut/spliced into the wires that were previously used to tap into my wiring harness and now ALL the trailer lights work.
Cutting a hole in your bumper is kind of scary...
I lined up the holes with the supplied bracket, marked and drilled the screw holes and coated all the bare metal with some Rustoleum. (I don't know why MUD insists on rotating the picture)
Here's the final with stainless metal screws.
I spent a considerable amount of time this evening troubleshooting the hitch wiring. Brakes and left turn signal trailer lights did not work (this is not new). In the process I followed the harness back to the drivers rear panel and found that someone just spliced into the wires--ok, this could still work. First issue was that the old 4-way plug was just bad for the turn signal--easy fix. But what about the trailer brake lights? I tested multiple scenarios but without a hitch converter (Toyota or aftermarket) and some sketchy wire taps, I think this was a hack job. I'm going to rip that crap out and I have one of these Hopkins 43405 plug-n-play solutions ordered.
Update: after reviewing the hack job I decided that the bad 4-way plug (see the picture above) must have been a converter and adapter in one. It's sealed so I can't see what's going on in there but it's bigger and heavier than just your normal adapter. I purchased a Hopkins 48895, cut/spliced into the wires that were previously used to tap into my wiring harness and now ALL the trailer lights work.
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- Thread starter
- #65
I started Friday checking out the PCV valve and hoses (now on order) so while I was checking things out, I decided to replace several of the cracked, hard as a rock, vacuum hoses (cut to fit from what I could find at O'Reilly). I cannot confirm anything, but I swear the engine runs smoother. Today I decided to continue the trend and finally fixed the emergency brake. When I bought the 80, the little thumb spring dealy was broken and after multiple attempts to order just this part, I found and pulled the whole assembly from a @SteveJackson parts car. The install was stupid simple and not sure why I waited. I also finally got around to installing FIAMM Freeway Blasters (72112 and 72102).
I tested it on my
's ears which probably was not a smart move.
I tested it on my
's ears which probably was not a smart move.- Thread starter
- #66
Also just ordered some Dobinson coils and shocks! Soon my worn out suspension is going to get a 3 inch face lift.
Nice work! I’m pretty amazed that you scored that rig for 1k.
I also did the Strong arm lift struts for hood and rear gate.
I found a great way to double your belt replacement time; completely back out the tensioner lock screw. Getting that thing re aligned and not cross threaded was a real peach from under the truck.
Keep the updates coming.
I also did the Strong arm lift struts for hood and rear gate.
I found a great way to double your belt replacement time; completely back out the tensioner lock screw. Getting that thing re aligned and not cross threaded was a real peach from under the truck.
Keep the updates coming.
- Thread starter
- #69
After having a flat and finding my spare was an original tire--24 years old, I had to change priorities and get new tires. I picked up my rig this morning after getting new shoes! These are Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires 315/75R16. Originally I wanted KO2s but the Falkens get great reviews and readily available. The wheel wells are stuffed at the moment but no serious rubbing on normal street cruising. This weekend the plan is to get the new suspension on... more details on that soon. Need to touch up those rims!
- Thread starter
- #70
My buddy was gracious, kind and willing to lend a hand, tools and shop to install the suspension this weekend. To install, I have Dobinson front springs C59-176 and shocks GS59-683 -- rear springs C59-185 and shocks GS59-682. Plus a new steering damper SD59-824 and castor correction bushings. While I have the control arms off I'll also replace the back/rear bushings, also sourced from Dobinson.
Starting with the rear... multiple jack stands and chocked wheels because well, safety first. The passenger side was easiest and the springs popped right in. New shocks are in place.
You can see here the rear spring are about the same height but MUCH heavier duty. From my measurements, the old worn out stock suspension was about 36" and 39.75" with the replacements (measured center of the wheel, ground to flare).
We completed the rear tonight and will finish up the front tomorrow--which we have the passenger side mostly completed. The bushings in the control arms are a bitch!
Starting with the rear... multiple jack stands and chocked wheels because well, safety first. The passenger side was easiest and the springs popped right in. New shocks are in place.
You can see here the rear spring are about the same height but MUCH heavier duty. From my measurements, the old worn out stock suspension was about 36" and 39.75" with the replacements (measured center of the wheel, ground to flare).
We completed the rear tonight and will finish up the front tomorrow--which we have the passenger side mostly completed. The bushings in the control arms are a bitch!
- Thread starter
- #71
Back at it today finishing up with the front suspension.
This time the bushings were a little easier since we had all the right sized plates figured out from last night. Having a 55 ton shop press doesn't hurt.
Here's a comparison of the front springs (about an inch longer):
Shock and awe...
After pose:
With new tires and suspension the vehicle drives like a completely different rig. My steering play is gone, the ride is smoother, and very little road noise.
This time the bushings were a little easier since we had all the right sized plates figured out from last night. Having a 55 ton shop press doesn't hurt.
Here's a comparison of the front springs (about an inch longer):
Shock and awe...
After pose:
With new tires and suspension the vehicle drives like a completely different rig. My steering play is gone, the ride is smoother, and very little road noise.
I did the same lift on my 91. I really like the Dobinson gear. I also had them send me a 1" spring pad for the front. After about 3K miles the front settled in and looked a little nose divey. The bumper and winch has a bit to do with that too. Your rig looks great, keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #74
The recent polar vortex brought frigid temps and frozen doors. When attempting to open the driver's door, the handle just snapped off. Sometimes I have to remind myself that the rig is 25 years old.
Still available in my color from Toyota! 69220-60020-G0
Old vs. New
Hardest part was being careful with the old door cards. I'm thinking about alternatives and started a thread here about using a bunch of ABS I have.
Still available in my color from Toyota! 69220-60020-G0
Old vs. New
Hardest part was being careful with the old door cards. I'm thinking about alternatives and started a thread here about using a bunch of ABS I have.
- Thread starter
- #75
So while my buddy was simply swapping out a F150 transmission... I took advantage of some shop time.
I finally got around to cleaning the air filter "tuna" can. It may or may not have had about an inch of caked dust.
Cleaned and run through the parts washer. (Note the step stool that is now required to do anything in the engine bay)
Next up was troubleshooting the Neutral Safety Switch. Lots of info on here about troubleshooting, but my issue is no gear indicator lights on the dash and no reverse lights. I've also had a periodic no-start that gets significantly worse in extreme cold. I purchased a replacement NSS a while back but before I replaced it and first step was to disconnect the old one. I haven't been looking forward to this. On a '94, the NSS wiring harness runs on top of the transmission (with two zip ties that thankfully were brittle and fell apart) and plugs into the wiring harness above the starter, behind the drivers side wheel well. After the brittle plug clips basically snapped off in my hand, it came apart easy but I found major corrosion. Both ends of the bigger plug that run the lights looked like below.
NSS end:
The truck's wiring harness female end:
While cleaning, one of the metal tabs inside the female/wiring harness side literally fell out, corroded and broken. I could barely make out the end of the wire (I also now keep a pair 1.5x reading glasses in my truck... because, I'm old). I didn't yet know if the issues were the actual switch or the connectivity (highly likely at this point). So I rigged some twisted copper wire down in that tab's hole and put the cleaned connectors back together... BOOM lights! More than likely it's not my NSS but I have a brand new one with the intact connectors. Now, where to get a replacement female connector for the wiring harness side? Or do I try and repair? Either option will be a struggle as there is so little room to work in this area and the wiring harness has zero play. I could "jump" just this one wire (might be easier than getting access to the whole plug and wiring harness). Sad news is the lights stopped working as I pulled out of the shop.
I finally got around to cleaning the air filter "tuna" can. It may or may not have had about an inch of caked dust.
Cleaned and run through the parts washer. (Note the step stool that is now required to do anything in the engine bay)
Next up was troubleshooting the Neutral Safety Switch. Lots of info on here about troubleshooting, but my issue is no gear indicator lights on the dash and no reverse lights. I've also had a periodic no-start that gets significantly worse in extreme cold. I purchased a replacement NSS a while back but before I replaced it and first step was to disconnect the old one. I haven't been looking forward to this. On a '94, the NSS wiring harness runs on top of the transmission (with two zip ties that thankfully were brittle and fell apart) and plugs into the wiring harness above the starter, behind the drivers side wheel well. After the brittle plug clips basically snapped off in my hand, it came apart easy but I found major corrosion. Both ends of the bigger plug that run the lights looked like below.
NSS end:
The truck's wiring harness female end:
While cleaning, one of the metal tabs inside the female/wiring harness side literally fell out, corroded and broken. I could barely make out the end of the wire (I also now keep a pair 1.5x reading glasses in my truck... because, I'm old). I didn't yet know if the issues were the actual switch or the connectivity (highly likely at this point). So I rigged some twisted copper wire down in that tab's hole and put the cleaned connectors back together... BOOM lights! More than likely it's not my NSS but I have a brand new one with the intact connectors. Now, where to get a replacement female connector for the wiring harness side? Or do I try and repair? Either option will be a struggle as there is so little room to work in this area and the wiring harness has zero play. I could "jump" just this one wire (might be easier than getting access to the whole plug and wiring harness). Sad news is the lights stopped working as I pulled out of the shop.
- Thread starter
- #76
Got around to finally replacing my tailgate carpet with ABS. It's easy to work with and eventually think I'd like to replace my door cards with the stuff.
I just used the old card as a template, countersunk some holes and screwed it down with M5 bolts and rivnuts. I've also now added some protective edge trim so it doesn't get beat up when lifting things into the back while the tailgate is up.
While I was at it and making things... also DIY'd a cooler divider.
I just used the old card as a template, countersunk some holes and screwed it down with M5 bolts and rivnuts. I've also now added some protective edge trim so it doesn't get beat up when lifting things into the back while the tailgate is up.
While I was at it and making things... also DIY'd a cooler divider.
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- Thread starter
- #77
I have dash gear indicator (no not D) and reverse lights!
Finally dug into the lights and the NSS wiring. I dreaded it for a reason... you have this [____] much F*ing room to work in. In retrospect I probably could have either just jumped the one broken wire or repaired the connector inside the plug but decide the best thing was to replace it with a waterproof connector (I ordered a Deutsch DT 8-pin Pigtail Kit a while back for the job--very well made, solid and comes with pigtails). Tips for this job: turn your steering to the right, drop the front drivers wheel and grab your reading glasses.
First thing first was to make 100% sure I knew what wire connected to what. The wires on each side of the harnesses are not the same colors. Then I made a sketch.
Then I checked again before cutting.
I'm familiar with connecting wires, solder and heat shrink. The NSS harness can be cut loose of the zip ties and fed back to the switch so that you have access under the vehicle to make the connections. The also nice thing about the NSS side AND the pigtails I bought is the colors match perfectly.
The other side of the harness is not so nice. After disconnecting the wires from the factor plug, you have maybe 2 inches of wire to work with, coming out of the main harness. This coupled with limited space, big hands and an awkward position make any kind of re-connection a PITA. I tried to solder but after successfully burning my fingers I concluded I needed a different solution. No room! While some may cringe (or crimp), I ended up with butt connectors.
I feel pretty comfortable with it all wrapped in heat shrink and wrapped in conduit.
Finally dug into the lights and the NSS wiring. I dreaded it for a reason... you have this [____] much F*ing room to work in. In retrospect I probably could have either just jumped the one broken wire or repaired the connector inside the plug but decide the best thing was to replace it with a waterproof connector (I ordered a Deutsch DT 8-pin Pigtail Kit a while back for the job--very well made, solid and comes with pigtails). Tips for this job: turn your steering to the right, drop the front drivers wheel and grab your reading glasses.
First thing first was to make 100% sure I knew what wire connected to what. The wires on each side of the harnesses are not the same colors. Then I made a sketch.
Then I checked again before cutting.
I'm familiar with connecting wires, solder and heat shrink. The NSS harness can be cut loose of the zip ties and fed back to the switch so that you have access under the vehicle to make the connections. The also nice thing about the NSS side AND the pigtails I bought is the colors match perfectly.
The other side of the harness is not so nice. After disconnecting the wires from the factor plug, you have maybe 2 inches of wire to work with, coming out of the main harness. This coupled with limited space, big hands and an awkward position make any kind of re-connection a PITA. I tried to solder but after successfully burning my fingers I concluded I needed a different solution. No room! While some may cringe (or crimp), I ended up with butt connectors.
I feel pretty comfortable with it all wrapped in heat shrink and wrapped in conduit.
- Thread starter
- #78
I often wonder what my neighbors think of my rig, hood up and jacked up on the front drive. Today she got a cleaning, removed the rear seats and tested the awning.
I need to sprinkle some empty beer cans in the yard next time.
I need to sprinkle some empty beer cans in the yard next time.
I am enjoying this build. I will be following this.
- Thread starter
- #80
Finally installed my attic rack with Delta brackets. You can find them here: FJ80 Delta Ceiling Storage Bracket. I sourced the rack per that site.
Thanks @LandCruiserPhil !
Thanks @LandCruiserPhil !
