My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.

[dngspot]

I did not do much today. I removed all studs from the axle housing and used a die to remove any stuff from their threads. I cleaned the gasket surface, installed a gasket then installed the third member. I had to remove the king pin bearing races also. The axle is now home and ready for more work. I will be taking the axle knuckles with me tomorrow for cleaning and paint.

Before

After

 

[Combat Chuck]

Feel like building up a 1983 shortbed when you're done?
but seriously, great build!

 

[vipergrhd]

envy

I wish i could do the same to my rig,this build is totally awesome!!!! keep on building man and more pics.

John

 

[dngspot]

Thanks for the kind words.
Chuck there is no other build like this in my foreseeable future. The next projects will be a 20X20 extension to my garage and a 40X10 covered deck. The extension is for me the deck is for my wife. Then I am building an ultra light air plane called Ultracruiser. Before I moved to Kansas I was an avid hanglider pilot, I miss the flying.

 

[dngspot]

Not much to show for the work that was done. I started to follow TG's instructions for the front kit. It starts with installing the IFS box. I removed the push pull box and its brackets. Then I used a saws-all to remove the anti wrap bar. I placed the steering box in place and found quickly what was in the way. When I pushed the box to the front, it quickly hit the front sheet metal. When I tipped it up the back of the steering box hit a mount on the frame for the bumper. Before I got happy with the grinder and torch I thought it best to ask, do I need to remove the bracket and cut that sheet metal? At best I thought it was wise to at least start working on the front spring hanger and get the axle mounted, then I could see where the rods are going to line up and that would help me determine where the IFS box need to be.
I moved to the front of the truck and removed the lower balance, grill support and bumper. I then cut the spring hangers off. I used a die grinder and saws-all where I could, then cut the rest off with the torch. I have not cleaned the area under the front cross member for welding.

Pics

The area for the steering box. Needs to be cleaned

Inside frame rail for the steering box. Needs to be cleaned.

Front spring hanger not quite ready to weld in yet.

 

[85+92]

good work!!!

did you make or buy the rear brake brackets?

 

[dngspot]

The bracket came with the kit from TG.

 

[dngspot]

OMG, I have been busier than a $2.00 lady of the evening on nickel night. Last week I did a 7 day with 10 hour days. Then the setup for the holiday took a bunch of time. I managed to take some time today to clean and weld in the front spring hanger. I welded what was rest of the old spring hangers to the new. I still need to finish welding the hanger to the frame, front and rear. I thought about gusseting the hanger to the front cross member but, I am going to build a winch plate that will be welded to both the cross member and hanger. That should serve as a gusset when done. Getting the shackle angle correct was a breeze, I just measured the hanger, an inch out, centered and square and the rest fell into place. The hanger is offset, front is 1 1/8 and the back is 1 inch even. That is measured from the bar to the top edge of the actual hanger.

Here are the pics

The front hanger.

Shackle angle without any weight on the spring.

Shackle angle with the weight of the truck on it.

Spring with weight on it.

 

[NorCalBorn]

No knuckle gussets? That's where the 60 axles bend, and if you're trussed like that, the knuckles are the next place anyway.

Yep, the mini axles do too. Also use 4 small triangle pieces to gusset (seal off and reinforce) the steering stop teepees. They like to fold over.

*Keeping it standard steering or plans for hydro at all? IOW, what size tires ya plan on runnin?

 

[dngspot]

I have the steering gusset kit, will install later. Hydro steering will be in the futrure but, will be one of the last things I do. I have a set new set of Goodyear 33 12.5 15 that I will either wear out or destroy then go to 35 12.5 15 Generals.

 

[dngspot]

With not being able to do any work in the shop this winter and the spring chores, set up by the better half, nothing has been done on the truck.
But today I managed to get some work on the front axle done. I installed the Longfield axles. Luck was on my side here, they fit without hitting the knuckle housing. I also had to clean up some rust on the brake rotors from winter storage. The seal and spindle assemblies are also installed I did not get the axle nuts and lockouts installed, did not have the socket here at home. So that is where I stopped.
I almost forgot how much I like working on the old girl.

 

[dngspot]

After cleaning up, I had a bunch of time, waiting for the father in law to show up, I went to work and picked up my 2 1/8 inch socket. We are taking the in-laws out for father's day. When I got home, I tightened up the axle nuts and installed the lock out housings. The lock outs are going with me to work tomorrow to get painted. While I was out in the garage my wife caught me and gave me crap for the possibility of getting dirty. Finished and not dirty just a bit sweaty, and caught stuff for that too.

 

[dngspot]

Nothing but a couple of hours with a beer and some paint can work. I sandblasted the lock out dials and outer rings. Then painted and attempted to bring the high letters and arrows to bare aluminum. That was taking more patience than I was willing to apply for this job. So they were repainted and left alone. I came home and torqued the lock out housings and installed the freshly painted dials and rings.
I had a pure stupid moment yesterday and installed the steering arms on the wrong sides. So I took care of this and then installed the tie rod. That is all.
Here are the pics

After sand blasting.

After paint.

Installed.

...And axle ready to be tucked under the truck.

 

[dngspot]

I worked half a day and came home and spent time on the truck. I welded the driver side spacer on the axle perch. I also installed the driver side spring and tightened the passenger spring shackle and hanger mount. Then I tucked the axle under the springs and installed the u-bolts. The next projects are the drive shafts and beedlocks. The front pinion to output shaft is 36 inches and the rear is 47 inches.
The rest of the afternoon was spent cleaning the garage, it was a true mess. I had several parts that needed to go into the attic.

A pic of the axle and springs.

I scored four of these from a guy on craigslist. They are off of a Toyota and have the correct back spacing for my needs. This one is setting on a bucket, ready to be wire wheeled clean before I weld the beedlock to it.

By the way, these are the welders I am using for the projects. The top one is a Hobart 175 mig and the lower one is a Miller 180 tig. Nothing larger is needed in my mind and one could get by with the mig alone. I built the stand in the spring.

 

[85+92]

jealous of this build and your welders/cart

good work sir!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

How do you plan to weld the beadlocks on? Did you get the type where you have to cut the lip off of the rim first?

 

[dngspot]

The beadlocks are from AZfab. They are the type that fit above and inside the bead lip with a small gap. This gap is where the weld will go.

 

[dngspot]

I came home for work and decided to take the rims to work and sand blast them. That was a total waste of time. The sandblasting did not work on the powder coating. I got home and hit it with a 4.5 inch flapper disk and it went through it like butter. I cleaned the rims in about 45 minutes, spent two hours driving and spraying sand blasting media on the rims. Oh well, at least I am ready for welding. I have one rim on order, it should be here Friday.

 

[dngspot]

…Some extra time this morning.
5 chamfered inner rings.

 

[dngspot]

One down four more to go! Beedlocks are not my favorite project to date. It took me a good 2 hours to weld, grind, weld and grind... until I was finished with this wheel. After the first pass I found two leaks. I used the mineral oil and chalk method to find the pin holes. After fixing that weld new test and the one of the spots that I fixed leaked again. I hope the next one goes better.