- Joined
- Sep 16, 2008
- Threads
- 96
- Messages
- 2,930
- Location
- Freensville
- Website
- www.poolpartydeathmachine.com
X threeve!
My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.
- Thread starter dngspot
- Start date
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X threeve!
- Thread starter
- #42
Some stuff that I finished at work.
I removed the studs from the knuckles and reinstalled them with Locktight Red. I am kicking around the 5 stud mod, that is why they are not painted. The rotor and hub assemblies are finished, less the bearings and seals. I drilled the new LC rotors and bolted them to the hubs nothing more.
Here is the stuff.
I removed the studs from the knuckles and reinstalled them with Locktight Red. I am kicking around the 5 stud mod, that is why they are not painted. The rotor and hub assemblies are finished, less the bearings and seals. I drilled the new LC rotors and bolted them to the hubs nothing more.
Here is the stuff.
- Thread starter
- #43
Last night I stripped what was remaining on the front axle. I brought the diff and axle housing to work for cleaning. The diff is done but the axle housing is going to take longer because of a leaking seal. The inside of the housing is a black thined out grease. It is nasty. I will clean it during my breaks and disassemble the diff tonight.
Litte Rusty
Little Nasty
Litte Rusty
Little Nasty
- Thread starter
- #45
I have been held up by the down sand blaster, someone ripped the left glove and I waited before cleaning the diff housing. The glove came in last night. I came in early to clean up the housing. I plan on painting before I install the bearings, seal, gears and locker. The painting should happen today.
She is not Little Rusty anymore.
She is not Little Rusty anymore.
- Thread starter
- #46
Did something stupid, I grabbed what I thought was all of the stuff I needed to build the diff. Got to work and cleaned the pinion, opened the bearing kit and all of the stuff I need was gone, just a couple of side gears. So I sat around for an hour and a half doing nothing.
I asked a buddy that was in a accident to bring in a damaged axle housing. I wanted to build a jig to hold my diff housing. When I built the rear diff, trying to clamp the thing in a vise was a bit difficult and could possibly damage the housing. I welded 1X1/8 inch square tubing into a U shape frame and welded it to the axle housing. I then welded a 2X1/4 square tube to the bottom of the U shape and to the bottom of the axle housing, which will be what is clamped into the vise. I then cut away the material I did not need of the axle housing and ground the edges. A little paint and now I have something to build a diff in.
I asked a buddy that was in a accident to bring in a damaged axle housing. I wanted to build a jig to hold my diff housing. When I built the rear diff, trying to clamp the thing in a vise was a bit difficult and could possibly damage the housing. I welded 1X1/8 inch square tubing into a U shape frame and welded it to the axle housing. I then welded a 2X1/4 square tube to the bottom of the U shape and to the bottom of the axle housing, which will be what is clamped into the vise. I then cut away the material I did not need of the axle housing and ground the edges. A little paint and now I have something to build a diff in.
- Thread starter
- #47
I’m going to give a little detail on how I build diffs, not saying it is the only way but it will help some who may have questions on the process.
This morning I pressed the first bearing on the pinion. There is a shim under that bearing, it is the stock shim and measured at .080 inches. Then above the bearing is the stock solid spacer and on top of that is a set of shims that set the preload of the pinion bearings. The press I am using is a large arbor press. A Harbor Freight press would work fine.
I measured out the shims on top of the spacer and they were .047 inches and that preload was close to 50 inch pounds of rolling torque. .056 inches of shims gave 0 rolling torque. .047 inches of shims gave me between 15 and 12 inches of rolling torque. The spec is 10 to 16 in-lbs. All bearings were lubed with gear oil and the seals are not installed until the gear pattern is determined.
These are the shims on top of the spacer.
And this is a pic of my dial indicator attached to the pinion, checking rolling torque.
…More pics and detail as I work on.
This morning I pressed the first bearing on the pinion. There is a shim under that bearing, it is the stock shim and measured at .080 inches. Then above the bearing is the stock solid spacer and on top of that is a set of shims that set the preload of the pinion bearings. The press I am using is a large arbor press. A Harbor Freight press would work fine.
I measured out the shims on top of the spacer and they were .047 inches and that preload was close to 50 inch pounds of rolling torque. .056 inches of shims gave 0 rolling torque. .047 inches of shims gave me between 15 and 12 inches of rolling torque. The spec is 10 to 16 in-lbs. All bearings were lubed with gear oil and the seals are not installed until the gear pattern is determined.
These are the shims on top of the spacer.
And this is a pic of my dial indicator attached to the pinion, checking rolling torque.
…More pics and detail as I work on.
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Nice build mate, 
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks silverhorse,
After work I started with filing the ring gear and the ARB carrier. I filed just enough to remove the high spots. This was done for a flat fit.
I then cleaned the ring gear with solvent then brake clean. I made sure each hole was clean and dry because of the use of Red Lock-Tight. I used a dead blow hammer to push the ring gear on to the ARB enough to start bolts, for alignment. Then I used the arbor press and a piece of pipe. The pipe fit between the ARB and the space in the ring gear where there are not gear teeth. Once this was done I installed one bolt at a time with Lock-Tight and torqued to 75 ft-lbs. I used an opposing pattern to do this.
I used a piece of pipe I welded a plate to, to install the side bearings on the ARB.That pipe was made to install hydraulic pump seals in Cat Motor Graders. In this pic you will see that large arbor press I have been talking about.
These are the tools I use to set up the carrier bearings. The top tool with two screws in it is for the pinion flange; it screws into it and holds it still when the pinion nut is torqued. The other two are for adjusting and setting the carrier bearings.
I set the back lash to .008
After all of that I check the gear pattern and it was off. It turns out the drive end is high...
...and the coast end is low.
Looks like I need about .012 more shim under the lower pinion bearing. I will be going into work tomorrow to see if I can finish the diff
After work I started with filing the ring gear and the ARB carrier. I filed just enough to remove the high spots. This was done for a flat fit.
I then cleaned the ring gear with solvent then brake clean. I made sure each hole was clean and dry because of the use of Red Lock-Tight. I used a dead blow hammer to push the ring gear on to the ARB enough to start bolts, for alignment. Then I used the arbor press and a piece of pipe. The pipe fit between the ARB and the space in the ring gear where there are not gear teeth. Once this was done I installed one bolt at a time with Lock-Tight and torqued to 75 ft-lbs. I used an opposing pattern to do this.
I used a piece of pipe I welded a plate to, to install the side bearings on the ARB.That pipe was made to install hydraulic pump seals in Cat Motor Graders. In this pic you will see that large arbor press I have been talking about.
These are the tools I use to set up the carrier bearings. The top tool with two screws in it is for the pinion flange; it screws into it and holds it still when the pinion nut is torqued. The other two are for adjusting and setting the carrier bearings.
I set the back lash to .008
After all of that I check the gear pattern and it was off. It turns out the drive end is high...
...and the coast end is low.
Looks like I need about .012 more shim under the lower pinion bearing. I will be going into work tomorrow to see if I can finish the diff
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- Thread starter
- #50
This morning I went in and finished the diff.
The firs pic shows the shims that belong under the lower pinion bearing. The shim on the top right is what came in the kit. I had trouble with these with the rear diff I built earlier. When I took the pinion bearings off the bearing splitter that I used would catch on the outside edge of the large shim and mangle the shim pack. The shim below and to the left is the stock .080 shim and the one on the right is from the new bearing kit. I traced the outside diameter of the stock shim on to the new shim, and then cut the shim with tin snips.
I did not mention this earlier, I used a thread lube on the carrier bearing nuts.
When I reinstalled the pinion and set the carrier in, I set the carrier bearings to 0 end play and set the back lash to .008. Then I checked the gear pattern with .090 under the pinion bearing. This is what I got.
Drive
Coast
This is a pis of the tool I made to do the final torque of the carrier bearing nuts.
I set the carrier bearing nuts to 150 ft-lbs torque.
After the carrier bearings were set, the back lash was checked and the gear pattern was re-verified, I installed the locks and torque the bearing caps.
The firs pic shows the shims that belong under the lower pinion bearing. The shim on the top right is what came in the kit. I had trouble with these with the rear diff I built earlier. When I took the pinion bearings off the bearing splitter that I used would catch on the outside edge of the large shim and mangle the shim pack. The shim below and to the left is the stock .080 shim and the one on the right is from the new bearing kit. I traced the outside diameter of the stock shim on to the new shim, and then cut the shim with tin snips.
I did not mention this earlier, I used a thread lube on the carrier bearing nuts.
When I reinstalled the pinion and set the carrier in, I set the carrier bearings to 0 end play and set the back lash to .008. Then I checked the gear pattern with .090 under the pinion bearing. This is what I got.
Drive
Coast
This is a pis of the tool I made to do the final torque of the carrier bearing nuts.
I set the carrier bearing nuts to 150 ft-lbs torque.
After the carrier bearings were set, the back lash was checked and the gear pattern was re-verified, I installed the locks and torque the bearing caps.
- Thread starter
- #51
Then I flipped the third member over and removed the flange. I installed the new seal.
I then lubed the seal and installed the new flange. I used blue Lock-Tight on the flange nut.
I torque the nut to 150 ft-lbs
And lastly staked the flange nut
That is all that is needed to change gears and or install a full locker. The rest is part of the ARB install.
I drilled a hole in the housing using a 7/16 inch drill bit. This is the location I chose.
I tapped the hole with a ¼ inch pipe tap.
I Installed the ARB bulkhead fitting with Teflon tape.
I installed the ARB seal housing.
I then lubed the seal and installed the new flange. I used blue Lock-Tight on the flange nut.
I torque the nut to 150 ft-lbs
And lastly staked the flange nut
That is all that is needed to change gears and or install a full locker. The rest is part of the ARB install.
I drilled a hole in the housing using a 7/16 inch drill bit. This is the location I chose.
I tapped the hole with a ¼ inch pipe tap.
I Installed the ARB bulkhead fitting with Teflon tape.
I installed the ARB seal housing.
- Thread starter
- #52
I routed the line to the bulkhead fitting and cut it to fit.
The ARB tube fitting.
I cut the little tip that the 5mm tube would normally fit over. I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel.
I then drilled into the fitting from the area that I cut the tip off. I drilled about ¼ inch down into the fitting and used a ¼ drill bit. Sorry for the poor quality pic.
To finish the fitting I sweat soldered a piece of ¼ copper tubing into the drilled ARB fitting. This allows me to use SAE fittings on my air system and not ARB’s metric stuff. Most of the fittings will come from Home Depot and that makes it easy to replace if something breaks.
And finally there it is a finished ARB third member with 4.88 gears.
The ARB tube fitting.
I cut the little tip that the 5mm tube would normally fit over. I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel.
I then drilled into the fitting from the area that I cut the tip off. I drilled about ¼ inch down into the fitting and used a ¼ drill bit. Sorry for the poor quality pic.
To finish the fitting I sweat soldered a piece of ¼ copper tubing into the drilled ARB fitting. This allows me to use SAE fittings on my air system and not ARB’s metric stuff. Most of the fittings will come from Home Depot and that makes it easy to replace if something breaks.
And finally there it is a finished ARB third member with 4.88 gears.
great 
- Thread starter
- #54
Today some small work done. I would have done more but, my daily driver needed some attention. Nothing major just cleaning and install bed rail caps.
As for the Toyota, I grabbed the front axle housing and cut off the tabs and brackets that I will not need. I think I will take it to work and possibly sandblast it that is if it will fit in the cabinet.
The stuff removed.
The axle.
As for the Toyota, I grabbed the front axle housing and cut off the tabs and brackets that I will not need. I think I will take it to work and possibly sandblast it that is if it will fit in the cabinet.
The stuff removed.
The axle.
- Thread starter
- #55
Today I went into work early and took the front axle housing with me. I shoved it into the sandblasting cabinet and went to work. I thought I had all of the grease out of the axle, but did not. Just about all of the aluminum oxide media found that grease. I spent a good hour cleaning out the axle and it started to show rust from the cleaning process. I will not put that axle housing back in the cabinet again that was just too much work.
I am building diff armor. The idea was found on Toyota Resources web page. The found the info on Pirate that is where it originated from. The armor is made from an 8 inch weld able pipe cap. I cut the cap in two, and then cut a drain and relief for the fill plug. I started this at the end of the day. I began to make the strap that will connect the lower pipe cap to the upper axle housing when someone shut off the lights. So that is where I stopped. I do not plan on spending a bunch of time on this, it might look rough when it is finished but it will be functional. All items used for the armor is 3/8 thick.
Here are the pics.
The cap came green I cleaned that up in the sandblasting cabinet. Then I cut it in half with the band saw.
I took this pic after the lights had been turned off and the flash in my phone is not that powerful.
I am building diff armor. The idea was found on Toyota Resources web page. The found the info on Pirate that is where it originated from. The armor is made from an 8 inch weld able pipe cap. I cut the cap in two, and then cut a drain and relief for the fill plug. I started this at the end of the day. I began to make the strap that will connect the lower pipe cap to the upper axle housing when someone shut off the lights. So that is where I stopped. I do not plan on spending a bunch of time on this, it might look rough when it is finished but it will be functional. All items used for the armor is 3/8 thick.
Here are the pics.
The cap came green I cleaned that up in the sandblasting cabinet. Then I cut it in half with the band saw.
I took this pic after the lights had been turned off and the flash in my phone is not that powerful.
- Thread starter
- #57
I, for the most part, am finished with the axle housing. I stuck around after work and welded in the armor and truss. Then a little paint made everything look good. One thing I will point out is, my welds on the truss are not straight. I marked every two inches on both sides and welded far left front then far right rear until I reached the end on both sides. This left me with a 2 inch weld then a 2 inch space. Then I welded the empty spaces moving from one side to the other. I did this to keep the heat down. As for the armor, a hot weld all the way around.
The pics. Sorry for the pic quality, it is the best my phone can do.
The pics. Sorry for the pic quality, it is the best my phone can do.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2008
- Threads
- 96
- Messages
- 2,930
- Location
- Freensville
- Website
- www.poolpartydeathmachine.com
incredible work! I'll wager that axle will be as bulletproof a Toyota axle can be!
Your truck will rock!
Your truck will rock!
- Thread starter
- #60
I decided to let the knuckle gussets go for now. I have other things to do at this piont just to get the thing rolling. I have a list of things that will be revisited at that time. Also to add I still need to fit the axle to see if I have to rotate the knuckles.
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