Multi axis hitch dimensions (1 Viewer)

[barefoot]

I am in early stages of laying out a scratch build trailer that will incorporate either the AT or locknroll. While I am planning on making the tongue able to extend, I would really like to get the most out of the extension by incorporating the length of the coupler in my design from the beginning.
Having said all that what I would like to know is ...
1. the distance from center of the pin (the tongue will be receiver tube) on the trailer side and the center of where it mounts on the tow vehicle's drawbar.
2. The distance between the center of trailer side pin to the first obstruction that will keep it from sliding any further into the tongue.
Thanks in advance,

 

[Brian in Oregon]

I'd like to point out a serious flaw with these kind of hitches. They will not control the trailer at severe angles. This increases the chances of a trailer roll over.

A properly adjusted military pintle and lunette has a wide range of movement, but, when the trailer reaches a certain point, it meets resistance. From then on, the movement is controlled by the force of the trailer leveraging against the preloaded lunette, pintle, or both, helping to keep the trailer from flipping. The lock and roll style has no such resistance, and bidda boom, over goes the trailer.

There have been several photos of flipped over trailers here, and every one I've seen has had a lock and roll style hitch.

My experience is I had my FJ40 at 45 degrees, and my M100 trailer was even further over. I know because both the lunette and pintle were twisted over and had to be realigned with a crowbar. This provided a record of the movement. A lock and roll would have allowed the trailer to flip.

 

[spressomon]

For me I like the design merits of a multi-axis hitch. IMO the weight of the pulling vehicle compared to the weight of the trailer comes into play. My KK came (standard issue for KKs) with a Treg multi-axis hitch and it has performed without complaint or fault. The trailer weighs just south of 3,000lbs loaded and I want the trailer to not be able to lever my LC. I tend to push the limit, trail wise, with my rig and trailer and in an extreme event I want the two to act as independently as they can with respect to rotational freedom.

With a much lighter trailer I can see the advantage of a traditional lunette style hitch that allows rotational freedom to a point or angle then leverages the pulling vehicle.

I previously owned and heavily used an AT Horizon, again when it was fully loaded it was about 2,500lbs, and it had the Loc-n-Roll multi-axis hitch. I managed to roll that trailer onto each of its side...twice. And each time I was glad the hitch, once again, did not leverage the LC. However I never did really like the LnR hitch beyond that one design feature.

 

[Brian in Oregon]

A properly adjusted rotating military pintle and/or lunette will not allow the trailer to lever over the tow vehicle either. It simply provides a point where resistance increases to help control the trailer.

 

[womacje]

I snapped two pics with a tape for reference. Hope this helps. Look close to see the grease zerk at about inch 4. Kinda snug. The receiver is from Northern tool off the shelf and welded in. The male, I've had for years and bolted the CUAMCO Max Coupler onto it. This you must provide.

I really like my Max Coupler. Next most is to drill and weld nuts onto the receiver tube so that I can apply tension to the male inside the receive to eliminate pivoting off the hitch pin. Hope this helps.

Jeremy

www.ExpeditionOps.com

 

[barefoot]

I snapped two pics with a tape for reference. Hope this helps. Look close to see the grease zerk at about inch 4. Kinda snug. The receiver is from Northern tool off the shelf and welded in. The male, I've had for years and bolted the CUAMCO Max Coupler onto it. This you must provide.

I really like my Max Coupler. Next most is to drill and weld nuts onto the receiver tube so that I can apply tension to the male inside the receive to eliminate pivoting off the hitch pin. Hope this helps.

Jeremy

www.ExpeditionOps.com

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.

 

[womacje]

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.

No worries. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

www.ExpeditionOps.com

 

[Atoyot1031]

I'd like to point out a serious flaw with these kind of hitches. They will not control the trailer at severe angles. This increases the chances of a trailer roll over.

A properly adjusted military pintle and lunette has a wide range of movement, but, when the trailer reaches a certain point, it meets resistance. From then on, the movement is controlled by the force of the trailer leveraging against the preloaded lunette, pintle, or both, helping to keep the trailer from flipping. The lock and roll style has no such resistance, and bidda boom, over goes the trailer.

There have been several photos of flipped over trailers here, and every one I've seen has had a lock and roll style hitch.

My experience is I had my FJ40 at 45 degrees, and my M100 trailer was even further over. I know because both the lunette and pintle were twisted over and had to be realigned with a crowbar. This provided a record of the movement. A lock and roll would have allowed the trailer to flip.

BIO, the Lock n Roll does offer a rotation limiter. I used it and twisted up a hitch. That being said, I don't think the trailer would have gone over (you can judge the youtube video yourself), and at some point I will replace it with a Max Coupler as the Lock N Roll hitches are susceptible to damage from binding and Lock N Roll has the worst customer service I've ever experienced in my entire life. My .02

 

[RockMolester]

I have one of the new style Lock'N'Roll hitches that I got through Varozza 4x4 Outfitters. I haven't used it a lot yet but so far it's worked fine, although Lock'N'Roll's production quality leaves a lot to be desired. First of all, the trailer-side holes for the hitch were drilled 1/2" off from center, and the vehicle-side hitch pin holes were drilled 1/8" off from center. I was able to use a step bit with a handheld drill on the hitch pin holes, but I chucked the trailer-side piece into an end mill to re-drill the four tongue holes in the proper location. Also, the transition from square tube to round tube on the vehicle-side hitch didn't allow the hitch to slide all the way into my receiver, so I had to hit it with an angle grinder on all 4 sides. You can see this in the photos since I haven't repainted the hitch yet. Anyways, here are the dimensions you needed: