Muffler/ front pipe FZJ80 (1FZ-FE)

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Sep 18, 2024
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Hi all.. picked this up from a wreckers. Do you think that crack in the muffler goes all the way through? Or is their an outer shell? Also overall condition of the muffler considered the rust? Would appreciate your thoughts. These are NLA from Toyota and rare as hen's teeth to find and I need one...
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That crack is on an end plate. Yes it goes all the way through.

What engine?

No aftermarket exhaust available there?
 
It's not a route I would choose.

I think you're probably creating problems to solve something that appears to be quite solvable.

nobody wants to try and fix the current aftermarket front pipe on there with new gaskets and nuts.. :-(

The only options then really, is extractors with new front pipe (come as kit). one place said they could use an aftermarket front pipe with my current headers.. that was $480... Extractors installed, cheapest I could find with decent brand system was $1300. The last guy said an OEM front pipe would be best.. hence buying this one.. but I now doubt I'll find one that isnt rusted like this at any wreckers.. they're mild steel and just too old.. at 31 years old, I guess you've got to expect rust.
 
I sent the wreckers the pictures and they said they'll see if they have another one in better condition, otherwise they will refund it. They charged $165 for this one, and in Australia they are obligated by consumer law to provide a warranty and sell a product that is fit for purpose, so I knew I was covered regardless.
 
nobody wants to try and fix the current aftermarket front pipe on there with new gaskets and nuts.. :-(

Whats your willingness to have a go and take some skin off knuckles trying to deal with this yourself?

I know we all have different capabilities abs motivations, but if the alternative is $1300 vs an afternoon under the truck in the driveway, I know which way I would go. Even if I had to put 2/3 of that into tools and parts, I'd struggle to justify $1300

Did you get hold of some of the bolt extractor tools?

Do you own any cordless power tools? If so, what brand?
If you already have batteries, and had to buy an impact driver skin, a long extension bar, and bolt extractors, you'd still be way ahead of $1300.

These bolts are all accessible from underneath with a pretty straight shot with an extension bar.

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I think mine is missing a splash guard off the bottom of the chassis below these. Two bolts to remove the splash guard, and you have good access.
A long extension bar, and bolt extractor, and 18" breaker bar with a hammer to tail the bolt extractor on to get it to bite would have these off fast.
Then a smaller bolt extractor to removee the 4 studs.
Reinstall new OEM studs, new gaskets, new OEM nuts, and refit the splash guard.
Some copper anti-sieze lube on the studs and nuts add you put them in would help if you ever need to revisit this in the future.

If a breaker bar isn't getting it, a 1/2 drive, 18volt impact driver would get it done.

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Throw it ^^^ away when the job is done. Or keep it in the back of the vehicle for emergency tire change. Either way, you're still way under $1300

Plus $50-60 on parts.

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@mudgudgeon I've only got a small Makita impact gun which I doubt has the grunt to undo these. I havent bought the extractor sockets yet, but do have new studs, nuts and gaskets (incl. o2 sensor gasket) ready to go. I tried to undo the rusty nuts with a 1/2" - 6 point socket. One of the nuts was hard to get the socket onto it completely flush so slipped on my attempt. I decided not to try again through fear of making it worse.

Another started to undo with the stud (not really an issue). Possibly would make it easier heating it up with an oxy or blow torch.

I haven't touched the 2 nuts on the other flange. I have a local exhaust shop within 20mins to work that said they would give it a go with the current pipe, but couldn't guarantee if it would seal, given the flanges look bent (likely from previous install using impact gun and overtightening). I'd hate to waste genuine gaskets if it doesn't...they aren't cheap :-/

I soaked all of the nuts and studs for days with penetrating oil, ATF+acetone.

The reason I'm going down this path, is because a very experienced exhaust guy here said that he's never found an aftermarket front pipe that fits quite right on these and that they all end up leaking. That's why I've tried to source an OEM one, because mine is an aftermarket one (Chinese made—it wasn't expensive), so apart from the bent flanges, it may not line up 100% either. An oem one would like up perfectly and hopefully solve the issue.
 
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I'm hoping someone here might know the answer to this question.. looking at amayama, the correct part number for a factory replacement front pipe is 17410-66010. However, this is NLA from Toyota and nobody can source one for me. Part number 17410-61261 is for a 95-97 model, but when I google images of the parts, they look identical. Both are using 1FZ-FE and the same chassis.. I wonder what the difference is between the 2? Because I can pick up a 17410-61261 pipe, albeit expensive, as they are still in production. Anyone know?

17410 - PIPE ASSY, EXHAUST, FRONT
17410-660101FZFE..FZJ80..ARL08.1992 - 01.199501536.91
17410-612611FZ#..FZJ8001.1995 - 01.199901637.40
 
Just noticed another aussie user on the forum had asked the same question a year ago:

Genuine 80 series 1FZ-FE Exhaust system. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/genuine-80-series-1fz-fe-exhaust-system.1332590/

The thread fizzled out, so no idea how they got on. I have replied to resurrect the thread, maybe the OP has since found a solution or the answer to my question!

**EDIT** I've just noticed the difference. There is no o2 sensor mount in the 17410-61261 model. They must have the o2 mounted in the exhaust manifold instead.
 
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Later model aussie spec cruisers have no O2 sensors

Another notable difference is the later model front pipe is stainless steel, compared to the earlier model which is mild.

I could get a later model pipe and have an o2 sensor bung welded in....but that will set me back $1,000AUD + install (approx $300).. For the same price they'll install a set of brand new extractors and front pipe.

A local exhaust place is still willing to try and make the current pipe work, but as I said.. they won't guarantee it wont leak if the alignment is off or flanges bent.. The gaskets are a one off use too, so they'll go to waste if that fails as well. You'd think they could check the flanges are flat while the pipe is off the car.. and likewise with the alignment, but at that point you'll still be paying the labour charge and it could end up being a waste of time/money. I wouldn't use this same place to do the extractors.
 
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do you think the front pipe will be identical apart from the lack of an o2 bung? I can get a new one for $650 AUD delivered from Japan.

I'm not certain.

I would assume so, but you know what is said about assumptions?

@AussieHJCruza might be able to comment

Or ( hate to suggest it) try one of the Aussie landcruiser pages on facebook
 
I'm not certain.

I would assume so, but you know what is said about assumptions?

@AussieHJCruza might be able to comment

Or ( hate to suggest it) try one of the Aussie landcruiser pages on facebook
just spoke to my mate at Toyota parts.. he reckons it will fit.. he'd be very shocked if it didn't. His wife runs a 96 model with no o2 bung, and said they both run 1FZ-FE and same chassis.. why wouldnt they fit?

So either I go down that path, OR, firstly try and get my existing aftermarket pipe to seal with fresh gaskets, studs, nuts and high temp sealant... then double nut them to stop them backing out over time with vibration. The flanges may need heating up and bending slightly as they look bent from the person who installed it with an impact gun (and likely the aftermarket pipe using cheaper/softer steel).
 

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